— — - T I P S » T OOLS»TECHNIQUES a Hand-Cut Dovetails □ Resawing on the Band Saw » Hardware Storage Bin □ Exclusive Drawer Joint Jig Issue 18 November 1994 editor Donald B. Peschke executive editor Douglas L. Hicks managing editor Richard S. Peters associate editor Tim Robertson assistant editor Phil Totten contributing editor Mark A. Williams creative director Ted Kralicek art director Cary Christensen SENIOR ILLUSTRATOR Klllt Schultz illustrators Will Niskanen Roger Reiland Mark Higdon photographer Crayola England design director Ken Munkel senior designer Kent Welsh shop manager Steve Curtis shop asst./facilities Steve Johnson circulation Circulation Director: Liz Bredeson ■ Subscrip- tion Manager: Phyllis Jessen ■ Newsstand Sales: Kent A. Buckton PUBLISHING services Manager: Gordon C. Gaippe ■ Graphic Artist Cheryl L. Cynor CORPORATE SERVICES Controller: Robin Hutchinson ■ Accounting: Laura Thomas ■ Bookkeeping: Julie Greenlee ■ Production Manager: Carol Quijano ■ Info. Serv- ices Manager: Joyce Moore ■ Elect Pub . Coor- dinator: Douglas M. Lidster ■ Application Specialist: Linda Morrow ■ Support Assistant: Nick Thielen • Admin . Assistants: Cheryl Scott, Julia Fish ■ Rec.ept: Jeanne Johnson ■ Building Maintenance: Ken Griffith PROJECT SUPPLIES Marketing Director: Robert Murry ■ Art Direc- tor: Cindy Jackson ■ Catalog Products Manager: Bob Baker ■ Inventory Control/Prod. Manager: Mark Mattussi ■ Project Supplies: Linda Jones ■ Technical Support: Jeff Janes ■ Receptionist: Cynthia Kerman CUSTOMER SERVICE Supervisor: Jennie Enos* Customer Service Reps.: Jennifer Murphy, Joy Krause, Sara Kono, Anna Cox, Lonnie Algreen, Karla Cronin SHIPPING DEPARTMENT Supervisor: Nancy Johnson •Fulfillment: Gloria Sheehan, Chuck Carlson, Sylvia Carey, Larry Prine ShopNotes ® (ISSN 1062-9696) is published bimonthly (Jan., March, May, July, Sept.. Nov.) by Woodsmith Cor- poration, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, I A 50312. ShopNotes © is a registered trademark of Woodsmith Corp. ©Copyright 1994 by Woodsmith Corporation. All rights reserved. Subscriptions: Single Copy, $4.95. One year subscrip- tion (6 issues). $19.95. T\vo years (12 issues), $35.95. Can- ada/Foreign, add $5.00 per year. Second Class Postage Paid at Des Moines, IA and at additional offices. Postmaster: Send change of address to ShopNotes, Box 11204, Des Moines, I A 50340-1204 Subscription Questions? Call 1-800-333-5854, 8am to 5pm, Central Time, weekdays. PRINTED IN U.S.A. EDITOR'S NOTE Cutoffs O ne of the quickest ways to gather a crowd in our shop is with a new jig. Everyone is curious to see what it is and how well it works. And there are always comments — both good and bad. After considering all of the comments, a new design pops up a few days later. This process contin- ues until there aren't any more con- cerns, and the jig is finalized. A DOUBLE TAKE. But when I saw everyone stand- ing around the ‘jig" in the photo, I have to admit I did a double take. Knowing that the shop guys do have a sense of hu- mor, I was hesi- tant to ask what it was. It reminded me of the cartoons that “Rube" Goldberg drew years ago. (He specialized in deviously complex and impractical inventions.) Was it re- ally what it looked like — a power feeder for the band saw? When I finally gave in and asked, Phil, our Assistant Editor, said it was in fact an automatic board feeder for the band saw. But it wasn’t a jig for the magazine (thank goodness). RESAWING. Instead, he was working on an article for this issue on how to resaw wood on the band saw. As we got to talking, I found out that he had built the 'jig" because he was curious about band saw blades. Although we both ac- knowledged that most woodworkers use a V^'-wide blade for resawing, he wasn't satisfied recommending a blade until he had tested them all. (For more on this, see the article on page 12.) AN OPEN MIND. But curiosity just isn't enough. To really grow (and get better) at woodworking, you have to keep an open mind. And not be afraid to challenge any of the traditional meth- ods and techniques. DOVETAILS. In keeping with this train of thought, we've included an ar- ticle in this issue on how to cut dovetails by hand. What makes this article differ- ent is that it challenges the traditional method of cutting dovetails. That is, cut one halt* of the joint first, then tiy to get the other half to fit it perfectly. I like to think of our technique as a way to “sneak up" on a perfect dove- tail. It’s the direct result of watching Ken, our Design Director, cut doz- ens of dovetails. Although Ken'si requires patience (and a^ of practice), it’s hard to with results — perfect, dovetails. (For more on cutting dovetails by hand, see the arti- cle on page 22.) E-MAIL. But keeping an open mind does take some effort. I know it was a challenge for me to accept “electronic mail." (Whatever happened to stamps?) We've decided to link up with the infor- mation superhighway through a couple of on-line computer services. And as a service to our readers who have access to a computer and a mo- dem, you can visit with us or ask a question via electronic mail. Just send E-mail (Attn: ShopNotes ) to: Prodigy: EDJE97A CompuServe: 75330,2301 Internet: 75330.2301@compuseiwe.com I look forward to hearing from you (even if I'm not sure how it all works). argue flawless 2 ShopNotes No. 18 ISSUE NUMBER EIGHTEEN • Contents Jigs & Accessories Drawer Joint Jig 4 Working on a project with lots of drawers? This shop-made jig turns your router table into a production tool. Drili Frees Table & Fence 16 Make quick, accurate setups on your drill press with this table. It features a large work area and a built-in fence. Projects Hardware Din 10 There are plenty of drawers in this compact storage bin to help organize small parts and loose hardware. Dovetailed bookcase 26 Strength and good looks. Two reasons why dovetail joints are a perfect choice for this wall-hung bookcase. In the Shop Resawing on the Band Saw 12 Simple tips, jigs, and techniques you can use to make thin stock out of thick boards. Hand-Cut Dovetails 22 You’ll be cutting dovetails by hand in no time with our step-by-step approach and a few basic tools. Wood Filler 30 Two types of wood fillers — each with a place in your shop. Here are the reasons why. Departments Shop Solutions 28 Five shop-tested tips from our readers. Sources 31 Hardware and supplies for projects in this issue. Drawer Joint Jig page j \ Resawing page 12 Drill Press Table page 16 Hand-Cut Dovetails page 22 No. 18 ; ShopNotes 3 JIGS & ACCESSORIES T here’s just some- thing about a pro- ject with a lot of drawers that attracts me like a magnet. Especially when I start to think of all the storage possibilities. But when it comes to making all those draw- ers, the time it takes al- ways makes me wonder if there isn’t a quicker solution — one that doesn’t require changing the setups on your tools over and over again. So needless to say, I was intrigued when Ken Munkel (our design director) showed me this drawer joint jig. It attaches to your router table and provides a quick, accurate way to make drawers just like a production cabinet shop. reversible fence. The secret to this jig is its reversible fence. It allows you to rout all the join- ery you need to assemble a drawer without hav- Drawer Joint Jig You can build drawers like a production shop with this drawer joint jig for your router table. ing to change the basic setup of the jig. Instead, you rout one part of the joint using the front side of the fence, see photo. Then just turn the fence around to rout the rest of the joint on the mating piece, see inset photo. By reversing the fence and changing the orientation of the work- piece, you can cut three different types of joints. JOINERY. The front of the drawer is joined to the sides with a locking rabbet joint, see the Drawing below. And the back is held in place with a tongue and dado joint. You can even use the same setup to rout the groove for the drawer bottom. (We recom- mend a V4" spiral end mill bit for routing the drawer joints, see the box on opposite page.) Note: To ensure that all the drawer parts fit tight together, you’ll need to take the thickness of the stock into consideration. For best results, the drawer front should be at least 5 /8" thick, but no more than 13 /i6 M thick. And the sides and back need to be V2" thick. (For more information on using the jig to build a drawer, refer to page 9 .) 4 ShopNotes No. 18 JIGS & ACCESSORIES A Base (1) B Key(1) C Fence Bottom (1) D Face (1) B Braces (4) ^Medium Density Fiberboard • (4) #& x F/2 u Fh Screws • (2) 3 /w" x 1 3 /4 U Machine Screws • (2) 5 /w" Plastic Star Knobs 14V2 x 30 - 3 /4 MPF* V 2 x 30 - 3 /4 MDF * 2 V 2 x 30 - 3 /4 MPF * 2V2x24- 3 /4MPF* 1 3 /4 x 1 3 /4 (rgh.) - 3 A MPF* 5 Ae" x I 3 /*" MACHINE SCREW Spiral End Mill Bits A clean cut that doesn't clog up. That's why I mount a spiral end mill bit in the router when using the drawer joint jig, see photo. CLEAN CUT. Because of its spi- ral design, the cutting edges con- tact the wood at an angle. So instead of chopping the wood fi- bers like a straight bit, it pro- duces a clean, slicing cut. CHIP CLEARANCE. The spiral design of the bit also allows for fast chip clearance. Unlike a straight bit that shoots chips out to the side and clogs up the cut, the spirals pull the chips down and out, see Drawing. NO BURN. And since the chips are removed faster, the bit doesn't have a chance to heat up. So there's less tendency for the wood to burn. This means the bit lasts longer too — espe- cially if you use a solid carbide spiral end mill bit. (For sources, see page 31.) WORKPIECE SPIRALS DRAW CHIPS DOWN AND OUT i ))< K ■ //, ‘ - 0 N c 5 ASE 0 S \'\/f °l Mil S 1 «» Mil * j ; 0 ‘ ! 1 No. 18 ShopNotes 5 JIGS & ACCESSORIES Base & Fence _ The drawer joint jig consists of two parts: a two-piece base and a fence, see Drawing. To ensure that these parts stay flat and dimensionally stable after the jig is built, I used 3 4"-thick Medium Density Fiber- board (MDF). (It's available at many lumber yards and home centers.) But you could also use plywood. BASE. The base of the jig is de- signed to clamp to the top of a router table. So it needs to be long enough for the jaws of the clamps to reach (but not so long it hangs over the edges). And wide enough to provide plenty of sup- port for the workpiece. In my case, the base (A) is IAV 2 " wide and 30" long, see Fig. 1. DRILL HOLE. To provide an opening for the router bit to stick up through, a l"-dia. hole is drilled in the base. This hole is centered on the length of the base. But to create a large support area for the workpiece, it’s located closer to the back edge, see Fig. 1. GROOVES. After drilling the hole, the next step is to cut two grooves in the base. A wide (1") groove passes directly over the hole and serves as a track for the workpiece when it's held on end. And a narrow ( 3 / 4 M ) one accepts a “key” that’s added next. KEY. The key (B) is just a strip of MDF that’s glued in the groove, see Fig. 2. In use, the key fits into a corresponding groove in the bottom of the fence, see detail in Drawing above. All that’s left is to drill holes through the base and key for a pair of Vie" machine screws that are added later. Note: To prevent the screws from turning, I drilled slightly undersize ( 9 /32 M ) counter- sunk shank holes, see Fig. 2. FENCE With the base complete, the next step is to add a fence to guide the workpiece. The unusual thing about this fence is you use both FRONT EDGE OF DRAWER JOINT JIG KEY— Vj R BASE 1 ^ 6 ShopNotes No. 18 JIGS & ACCESSORIES sides to rout the drawer joints, see photos at right. The reason is simple. Turning the fence around changes the dis- tance between the router bit and the fence. This means you can use the front of the fence to cut part of the joint (a groove or dado). And the back of the fence to cut the mating part (a rabbet). BOTTOM. What makes this work is the bottom ( C) of the fence, see Fig. 3. To position the fence on the base, there's a groove cut in the bottom that fits over the key (B). The important thing is the lo- cation of the groove. To automat- ically position one side of the fence ¥ 4 " closer to the bit than the other, the groove is cut so there's V4" difference in the width of the shoulders, see Fig. 3. Next, to provide clearance for the router bit when using the back of the fence, I drilled a semi- circular opening on the back edge of the bottom piece (the one on the wide side of the groove), see Fig. 3 and margin tip at right. FACE. Now you're ready to add the face (D). This is a 2V2"-wide (tall) piece that's used to support a workpiece when it's held on end. After attaching the face with glue and screws, I glued on four trian- gular braces (E) to strengthen it. LOCKING SYSTEM. All that's left to complete the jig is to provide a way to lock the fence down once you set it on the key. It's held in place with two machine screws and a pair of plastic knobs (or wing nuts), see Fig. 4. The screws pass through the holes drilled earlier in the base and key and into holes in the fence bottom (C). To locate these holes, I placed the fence over the key and used a brad point bit to mark the centerpoint, see Fig. 4a. INSTALL fence. Finally, after drilling the holes, you can install The fence. Just thread the ma- chine screws in, set the fence in place, and tighten the knobs. Front When routing a groove (or dado), the key automatically po- sitions the tall front part of the fence V 4 " from the router bit. Back. Because the groove that fits over the key is offset, the back of the fence allows you to cut a rabbet on the end of a workpiece. To drill a curved opening on the edge of a work- piece, clamp a support block next to it. No. 18 ShopNotes 7 JIGS & ACCESSORIES Fence is too far from bit. Fence is too close to bit. Fence is in correct position. Setting Up the Jig To set up the drawer joint jig, you’ll need to do two things: posi- tion the jig on the router table, and adjust the height of the bit. POSITION JIG. The jig is posi- tioned so the front (tall) part of the fence is exactly V 4 " away from the router bit. This ensures that the parts of the joinery that are cut using the front of the fence as a guide fit snug with the parts that are cut using the back (short) side. Start by roughly positioning the jig so the hole in the base fits over the bit, see Step 1. Then fine tune the location and clamp the jig in place, see Step 2. TEST PIECES. To check the setup, you’ll need to make a test cut with pieces that are the same thickness as the drawer pieces, see Step 3. So I plane all the drawer stock to the correct thick- ness (refer to page 4) and make extra pieces for the test cuts. ADJUST BIT. Now all you have^ to do is set the height of the router bit. To produce a tight fit, the bit needs to stick up exactly V 4 " above the base of the jig. Here again, the best way to check this is to make test cuts, see Steps 4, 5, and 6. Only this time, you’ll need to cut a test front and side piece, reversir; the fence af- ter the first cut. Position Jig NOTE: MAKE RIGHT TO LEFT PASS Step 1: After mounting a spiral end mill bit, position the jig on the router table so the bit is roughly centered in the hole in the base. Step 2: Using a V 4 drill bit as a spacer, move the jig so the fence is exactly W from the router bit. Then clamp the jig to the table. Step 3: To check whether the jig needs to be repositioned, rout a dado in two side test pieces and fit them together (see margin). Bit is too low. Bit is correct height. Adjust Bit Height Step 4: With the fence positioned so the tall face is away from the router bit, cut a rabbet on the end of a front test piece. Step 5: Now reverse the fence and cut a groove in the end of the same piece by making a right to left pass. Step 6: After routing a dado in side test piece, check the fit of th^w pieces and adjust the height of the bit if necessary (see margin). 8 ShopNotes No. 18 JIGS & ACCESSORIES Building a Drawer Once the jig is set up, you can make one drawer or go into “production mode” and build a dozen. But no matter how many you make, there are some things to keep in mind to produce tight-fitting joints. SIZE. Before routing the joinery, you’ll need to cut the drawer pieces to size. Determining the width is easy — they’re all Vi6" narrower than the height of the opening. But the lengths will vary. To slide the drawer in and out without binding, the front is cut Vie" shorter than the width of the drawer opening. And, to allow for the joinery, the back is V 2 " shorter than the front. Before cutting the sides to length, you’ll need to take the depth of the drawer opening and the joinery into consideration. MARK PARTS. Next, to avoid accidentally routing the wrong drawer part (or the wrong side of the piece), I label the front, back, and sides. Then mark the inside and outside faces of each piece. backing board. Another thing that can keep problems from cropping up is to use a scrap of wood as a backing board when routing. By supporting the wood fibers where the bit exits, it reduces chipout. And with narrow workpieces, it’s safer and keeps the ends square to the fence (or base). Step 2: To support the workpiece when it’s stand- ing on end, turn the fence around so the tall side faces the bit and rout a groove in each end. Step 4: After reversing the fence, place the outside face of the back piece down on the jig and cut a rabbet on each end of the workpiece. Step 1: With the back of the fence toward the router bit, make a right to left pass to cut a rabbet on the inside face of each end of the front piece. Step 3: Without moving the fence, place the in- side face of each side piece down on the table, and rout a dado near each end. Step 5: If the stock you’re using for your drawer bottom is V4" -thick, rout a groove near the bottom edge of each of the drawer pieces. No. 18 ShopNotes 9 SHOP PROJECT Hardware Bin Here's a handy storage bin for organizing small parts and loose hardware. T his small hardware bin can make a big differ- ence in the clutter that tends to pile up in a shop. Although it's only about as big as a tackle box, it still holds enough drawers to organize lots of loose parts and hardware. And since there are a number of drawers in this project, it’s a per- fect opportunity to use the drawer joint jig shown on page 4 . This jig lets you rout the joinery for the drawers quickly and accurately. CASE. I began by making the case. It starts out as a top and bottom (A) that are held together by two sides (B), see Drawing below. (I used 3 /4"-thick pine.) After rabbeting the sides to accept the top and bottom, I cut dadoes in the top and sides for a set of shelves and dividers added next, see Detail. SHELVES AND DIVIDERS. The shelves and dividers support the drawers and create a sepa- rate compartment for each one. To create openings for a large drawer on the bottom and small drawers above, I cut two shelves (C) from */£ "-thick stock (pine). Then, after cutting shal- low dadoes in the shelves, a pair of V2 "-thick dividers (D) can be cut to fit the openings. Now you can assemble the case. It’s held together with glue and finish nails. And the shelves and dividers are glued in place. DRAWERS With the case complete, the drawers can be built to fit the openings. The drawers are held together with two simple, yet strong joints — a locking rabbet SHOP PROJECT at the front comer and a tongue and dado joint at the back, see Drawing in margin at right. I routed the joints using the drawer joint jig. But you could also cut them on the table saw. Either way, you’ll need to cut the parts to size before you begin. THICKNESS. To allow for the locking rabbet, I used 3 4"-thick stock for the drawer fronts, see P^ig. 1. But to keep the weight of the drawers down, the sides and back pieces are V 2 " thick. WIDTH. Regardless of the thick- ness, each piece is ripped to the same width. To keep the drawers from binding, they’re Vie" nar- rower than the height of the openings (2 15 /i6" in my case). But the length of the pieces will vary. LENGTH. To determine the length of the sides (E) y measure the depth (width) of the case and subtract 1" see Fig. 1. (This allows for the locking rabbet and stops that are added later.) Next, the small (F) and large drainer fronts ( G) are cut Vie" shorter than their openings. And to allow for the tongue and dado joint, you’ll need to cut the back pieces (H, I) V 2 " shorter than the drawer fronts. (For step-by-step instructions on using the drawer joint jig, refer to page 9.) CUT JOINERY. N ow you can rout (or cut) the drawer joints. Since I used V^'-thick Masonite for the drawer bottoms, I routed the grooves for them as well and cut the bottoms ( J , K) to fit. STOPS. After assembling the drawers, the next step is to glue stops (L) onto the shelves near the back of the drawer openings, see Figs. 2 and 2a. These are scrap blocks that keep the drawers flush with the front of the case. PULLS. Finally, I screwed brass pulls to the drawer fronts, then slipped in labels to see at a glance what’s inside, see Fig. 3. and a tongue and dado joint combine to produce a simple, yet sturdy drawer. No. 18 ShopNotes 11 Resawing on the Band Saw It’s easy to resaw lumber to any thickness with the right technique and a couple of simple jigs. R esawing on the band saw is one of the quickest and easiest ways to produce thin stock. But more importantly, it doesn't waste as much wood. Instead of repeatedly running a board through a planer to get it to the desired thickness, it makes more sense to resaw it. Then just pass it through a planer to smooth out the saw marks. A SIDE BENEFIT. There's also a side benefit to resawing — you can create perfectly bookmatched panels, see photo below. This gives a glued-up panel a uniform grain pattern on each side. It makes the panel look like one piece of wood rather than a group of randomly selected boards glued together. THREE STEPS. Basically, resawing is a simple three-step process. First, you'll need to select the right blade. Second, take the time to adjust the saw and the blade properly. And third, make the cut. (To ensure a smooth cut, we've included two simple jigs, refer to the boxes on pages 14 and 15.) And just in case you run into problems, there's a troubleshooting section on page 15. BLADES One of the most important steps to getting good results is to select a proper blade. If I'm planning on resawing a lot of lumber, I’ll change from my everyday blade (a Vi" -wide, 10-tooth per inch stand- ard blade) to a Vif'-wide, 4-tooth per inch hook blade, see box below. (For sources of blades, see page 30.) Why? Because it's designed for resawing — the rake angle on this blade allows the teeth to cut more aggressively than other blade types. And the gullet Bookmatching . Resawing a board is a quick and easy way to create a book- matched panel. This is where the grain pattern on one side is a mirror image of the grain pattern on the other side. Blades for Resawing ▲ Standard. If I only have a few boards to resaw, I'll use my everyday saw blade (a V4"- wide, 10 tpi standard blade). ▲ Hook. But if I'm going to resaw a lot of boards, I'll change to a V 2 "-wide, 4 tpi hook blade for a faster cut. 12 ShopNotes No. 18 TECHNIQUE A Quick Glance at Resawing • Use a V^'-wide 4 tpi hook blade • Remove sawdust inside the saw. • Adjust the saw and the blade. • Use a fence and a featherboard. • Feed the workpiece with an even, steady pressure. • If you have any problems, see Troubleshooting on page 15. between each tooth is much deeper. So more mate- rial can be quickly removed — which reduces bog- ging and results in a blade that cuts better and lasts longer. Note: If I only need to resaw one or two boards, I don't change blades — the time I'd save resawing with a hook blade is lost changing blades. TUNE-UP | Just as critical as blade selection is saw tune-up. The band saw must be clean and tuned for peak perform- ance. Most resawing problems can be traced to a saw that's caked with sawdust or poorly adjusted. So before you install a blade, take the time to blow out or vacuum any sawdust in the saw. Pay particu- lar attention to the drive wheels, thrust bearings, and guide blocks, see Drawing above. (For a detailed article on band saw setup, see ShopNotes No. 13.) Once the blade is in place, square the table top to the blade. And to help the blade track properly, adjust the thrust bearings and the guide blocks so they're almost touching the blade (a gap the thick- ness of a dollar bill is plenty). Finally, provide as much support to the blade as possible by positioning the upper guide assembly as close to the workpiece as you can, but still high enough so you can see the kerf. Pealing with Blade Drift All band saw blades will drift to a certain extent — some more than others. Drift is caused by an un- even set on the blade. It makes the blade pull to one side which can produce an unusually rough surface on that side. To check for drift, see Step 1. If the blade drift is slight, all you have to do is press the work- piece firmly against the fence (a featherboard helps). If the blade drift is severe, you’ll need to re- position your fence to match the angle of the drift, see Steps 2 and 3. slowly feed it into blade. Swing workpiece in direction of drift and keep pushing forward. Step 2. Stop around the halfway point. Then butt a bevel gauge against the scrap and adjust it to match the drift. Step 3. Now you can use the bevel gauge to set your resaw fence to match the angle of the drift. No. 18 ShopNotes 13 TECHNIQUE Step-by-5tep Resawing After you’ve set up your saw, the next step is to add a fence and a featherboard, see Steps 1 and 2 (and box below and on next page). The fence supports the work- piece and determines the thick- ness of the cut. The featherboard presses the workpiece tight into the fence to ensure a straight cut. Once theyTe in position, just guide the workpiece into the blade, see Step 3. As you com- plete the cut, use a push block to safely push the workpiece past the blade, see Step 4. Step 1 . For a uniform thickness and a square cut, clamp a fence to the table top. When positioning the fence, allow an extra Vi 6 for thicknessing. Step 2. To press the workpiece tight against the fence and ensure a straight cut, position a feather- board just in front of the blade. Step 3. To resaw, guide the workpiece into the blade with an even, steady pressure. Don’t force the cut — let the blade do the work. Step 4. To complete the cut, use a push block the same thickness as your workpiece to safely push the workpiece past the saw blade. Resaw Fence For a square cut, it's important to run the workpiece 90° to the surface of the table top. To do this, I use a shop-made fence to support the workpiece as it’s passing through the blade. The fence is nothing more than a face screwed to a base, see Drawing. The face is high enough to support the tallest workpiece my saw will handle. A notch in the face allows the guide assembly to be lowered for shorter workpieces. And to keep the face square to the table top, triangular-shaped support blocks are screwed to the face and base. LOCATE WIPE NOTCH FOR YOUR GUIDE ASSEMI BASE CUT BASE TO SAME LENGTH OF BAND SAW TABLE NOTE: ALL PARTS CUT FROM 3 /4"-THICK STOCK 14 ShopNotes No. 18 TECHNIQUE Troubleshooting Tips A If you end up with a wedge- shaped cut , first check the fence and the featherboard setup. Then check position of guide blocks. by increasing the blade tension and making sure the guide as- sembly is close to the workpiece. One of the most common prob- lems when resawing is you end up with wedge-shaped workpieces. Fortunately there's an easy fix. More than likely, the table isn’t square to the blade. Or the fence isn’t square to the table, see be- Another common resawing prob- lem is “barreling,” see below. Bar- reling occurs when the blade isn’t properly tensioned or supported. Two things can cause this. First, the tension may not be properly set — just increase the low left. Also, you might try ad- justing the featherboard to press harder against the workpiece. If this doesn’t solve the prob- lem, check to make sure the guide blocks aren’t forcing the blade out of alignment, see below. BLADE-- ©; <§> GUIDE BLOCK I 1 ADJUSTMENT SCREW U L Mg) REPOSITION GUIDE BLOCKS SO THEY’RE .NOTTOUCHING BLADE tension until it cuts straight. Another possible cause is the position of the upper guide as- sembly. The closer it is to the workpiece, the less chance you’ll have that the blade will flex or barrel, see below. Resaw Featherboard One of the easiest ways to ensure a straight cut is to use a featherboard. This shop-made featherboard exerts even pressure across the total width (height) of the workpiece. The featherboard consists of three parts, see Drawing. A base and an up- per arm made from %"-thick stock that hold a pressure plate (Vs" Masonite). To allow the workpiece to slide smoothly between the fence and the featherboard, I angled the end of the base. This way, the pressure plate can be positioned 45° to the workpiece. #£ x V/ 2 " Fh WOODSCREW 3 / 4 "-THICK STOCK No. 18 ShopNotes 15 FEATURE PROJECT Drill Press • Table & Fence I f you’ve ever spent too much time positioning a fence on a drill press, you’ll appreciate this drill press table and fence. It combines a large work surface with a unique fence that’s actually part of the table, see photo above. NO CLAMPS. Attaching the fence to the table solves a couple of problems. For instance, there’s no need to fumble around with clamps to hold an aux- iliary fence in place. And this fence won’t get lost like the ones made of scrap wood. TWO-PART TOP. Nevertheless, making the fence part of the table does present a challenge. How do you make the fence adjustable? The secret is a two-part table top. One part is fixed to the metal This drill press table increases your work area and features a built-in micro-adjustable fence. drill press table. The other pail: slides quickly forward and backward, see photo A. By attaching the fence to | the sliding part of the table, you can position it exactly where you want. When you’re through drilling, the table slides back to move the fence out of the way. MICRO ADJUSTER. And if you need to move the fence just a hair to fine tune its position, simply turn a knob at the side of the table, see photo B. It’s connected to a unique adjusting mechanism located underneath the table. BRAKE. Once the fence is positioned, another knob locks it in place, see photo C. Like the adjust- ing mechanism, the brake is operated with one hand. A . Quick Adjust You can quickly po- sition the fence by simply pulling or pushing the front rail of the table top. B. Micro Adjuster . A mechanism un- der the table allows you to micro-adjust the fence to fine tune the position. C. Fence Brake . Once the fence is justed where you want it, lock it in place by tightening the knob on the brake. 16 ShopNotes No. 18 EXPLODED VIEW OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 24"W x 16 3/ 4 m D x S"H %" THREADED ROD, 24" LONG D LOCKING SAR 3 /8 n FLAT WASHER Materials A Base (1) 16x18- 3 /4 MPF B Rails (2) 1 7 /3 x 15 - 3 /4 MPF C Cleats (2) 1x15 - 3 /4 MPF P Rod Springs (2) V&X 3 /4 - 3 E Extension Wings (2) 4x18- 3 /4 MPF F Front Rail (1) 2 3 /4 x 24 - 3 /4 MPF G Fence (1) 3'/4 x 24 - 3 /4 MPF H Glide Strips (2) 2Vz x 15 - 3 /4 MPF 1 Locking Bar (1) 2 x 17*/& - 3 /4 MPF J Shoes (2) 1V4 x2- 3 /4 MPF K Wing Skins (2) 4 V 2 x 17*/4 - V 4 Mas. L Replaceable Skin (1) 15 x 17*74 - >/4 Mas. Note: You’ll need a piece of 3 /4" MPF that’s 24" x 43" and a piece of V&" Masonite that’s 13" x 25". Hardware • (4) #8 x 2" Fh Screws* • 04; #8 x Ite" Fh Screws* • (20) #8 x ffo" Fh Screws * • f sand the wood and filler smooth^^ stain PROBLEMS. The biggest drawback to hardening fillers is they don’t accept stain like wood does. When stained, these fillers tend to stand out from the sur- rounding wood. But regardless of the filler you use, it’s a good idea to first test it on a piece of scrap wood that’s finished the same way as your project. This way, you won’t have any surprises later. i i Non-Hardening. This type of filler is applied directly to a stained project. The finish can follow immediately. Hardening. A hardening filler is used on projects with a natural or painted finish. After filling all the holes and gaps, allow it to dry overnight before sanding and finishing. 30 ShopNotes No. 18 PROJECT SUPPLIES » Sources ShopNotes Project Supplies is of- fering some of the hardware and supplies needed for the projects in this issue. We've also put to- gether a list of other mail order sources that have the same or similar hardware and supplies. SPIRAL END MILL BITS To produce a clean cut when us- ing the Drawer Joint Jig shown on page 4, it’s best to use a V4" spiral end mill bit. We recommend using a solid carbide spiral end mill bit rather than a high-speed steel bit be- cause it stays sharp longer. These bits are available at most wood- working stores and some of the mail order sources listed below. RESAWING fche article on page 12 provides fips and techniques for resawing on a band saw (making thin stock out of thick boards). If you're doing a lot of resaw T - ing, we recommend using a wide (V2") hook tooth blade. These blades cut fast. And the deep gul- lets between each tooth clear chips quickly and efficiently. While there are a number of different brands, we've had good results using Lenox saw blades. Lenox and other band saw blades are available through woodwork- ing stores and some of the mail order sources listed below. DRILL PRESS TABLE The Drill Press Table and Fence shown on page 16 provides a quick way to make accurate set- ups on the drill press. One reason is the table is larger, so it's easy to support large work- pieces. And the fence is micro-ad- justable for precise setups. Once it's in position, you can lock the fence in place with one hand. ShopNotes Project Supplies is offering a kit for the Drill Press Table and Fence. It includes all the hardware to build the project. All that you have to supply is 3 /4 n -thick Medium Density Fiberboard (or plywood) and i/Y-thick Masonite. S18-6818-100 Drill Press Table and Fence Kit $16.95 HAND-CUT DOVETAILS There's a step-by-step approach to cutting dovetails by hand in the article shown on page 22. When using this technique, you'll need a few hand tools for laying out the joint, removing the waste, and fitting the pins and tails. Besides a metal rule, all you need to lay out the joint is a try square and bevel gauge. Once you've laid out the pins and tails, we recommend using a fine- toothed (15 to 16 teeth per inch) hand saw to define the sides. Then remove the waste with a coping saw. Finally, you'll need a set of beveled-edge chisels to sneak up on a perfect fit. You can find these hand tools at most woodworking stores and many of the catalogs in the mail order sources listed below. WOOD FILLER The article on the opposite page takes a close look at wood fillers. Basically, there are two types: non-hardening and hardening. To fill small gaps, we use a non- hardening filler called Color Putty. It's applied after a stain is applied and before the topcoat. But if the project is going to be painted (or if the area to be filled is larger), a hardening filler works best. These are available under brand names like Plastic Wood , Wood Dough , and Wood- Tex. Both types of filler are avail- able at most hardware stores. MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar hardware and supplies may be found in the folloiving catalogs. Please call each company fora catalog or for ordering information. American Saw & Mfg. Company 800 - 628-3030 Lenox Band Saw Blades Garrett Wade 800 - 221-2942 Layout Tools , Hand Saivs , Chisels ghland Hardware 800 - 241-6748 Layout Tools , Ha nd Saivs, Chisels, Spiral End Mill Bits Iowa Machinery 515 - 288-0123 Lenox Band Saw Blades Robert Larson Co. 800 - 356-2195 Layout Tools, Hand Sa ws, Chisels Trendlines 800 - 767-9999 Band Saw Blades, Layout Tools, Chisels, Spiral End Mill Bits Woodcraft 800 - 225-1153 Layout Tools, Hand Saws, Chisels, Spiral End Mill Bits Woodworkers’ Store 800 - 279-4441 Layout Tools, Hand Saws, Chisels Woodworker’s Supply 800 - 645-9292 Band Saiv Blades, Layout Tools, Chisels, Hand Saivs ORDER INFORMATION BY MAIL To order by mail, use the order form that comes with the current issue. The order form includes information on handling and shipping charges, and sales tax. If the mail order form is not available, please call the toll free number at the right for more information on specific charges and any applicable sales tax. BY PHONE For fastest service, use our toll free order line. Open Mon- day through Friday, 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM Central Time. Before calling, please have your VISA, MasterCard, or Discover Card ready. 1 - 800 - 444-7527 Note: Prices subject to change after January 1, 1995. No. 18 ShopNotes 31 The Barnes Velocipede No. 2 scroll saw shown above 1 foot per minute. Valuing the speed is simply a matter was often used to cut delicate fretwork. But it's also of pedaling faster or sloiver. And the seat can be ad- capable of cutting stock up to 3 inches thick at a rate of justed up or down for surprisingly comfortable sawing . Scenes From the Shop