] Adjustable-height top doubles as an outfeed support An auxiliary fence PLUiW must-have accessories Air Compressors: What you need to know before you buy www.ShopNotes.com EDITOR'S NOTE Cutoffs • 1 always look forward to telling you about the projects and tech- niques that we are featuring in the current issue of ShopNotes. However, as we were wrapping up this issue terrorists attacked our nation. So instead of talking about what we’ve built, I would like to focus on rebuilding. In that spirit, I would like to share with you a letter from the founder and publisher of August Home Publishing. Payday for Charity Aid for September 11, 2001 All of us at August Home Publishing offer our thoughts and prayers to those who lost loved ones and friends in the September 11th tragedy. And to the heroes who continue the work of rescue, rebuilding, and protecting us. During the past few days, as we tried to turn our atten- tion back to our jobs, we also began thinking of ways we could help those in need. As a way to extend a helping hand, our company, August Home Publishing, is making a contri- bution to charities in an amount equal to our payroll for September 11, 2001. In addition, individuals on the ShopNotes staff and the rest of the company are voluntarily contributing all or part of that day’s pay. It’s our sincere hope that this contribution helps those who have suffered so much, and aids in the vital work of rebuilding our hopes and dreams for the future. And I add my prayers that God may guide our efforts to work for a better world of peace and harmony. Donald B. Peschke, Publisher 2 ShopNotes No. 60 ISSUE SIXTY • Contents Features Air Compressor Caddy 6 Lugging around a “portable” air compressor can get to be a real chore. This caddy is the ideal solution for easily moving your air compressor and its accessories. Buying a Portable Air Compressor 10 Oil or oil-less? Single tank or twin? Learn what to look for when buying a portable air compressor. Plus, find out which handy accessories you need to have. Adjustable-Height Assembly Table 14 Whether you need an extra assembly area or an outfeed support for a stationary tool, this adjustable-height assembly table is the answer. Our unique adjustment system makes raising (or lowering) the top a smooth task. Six Solutions for Successful Ripping 22 Having problems ripping stock cleanly? Our six solutions will make the whole process a lot easier. They'll come in handy whether you're a seasoned pro or just a beginner. Auxiliary Fence 26 Adding a featherboard, a stop block, or a scrap face for “burying" a dado blade to a typical rip fence can be a real hassle. Not any more. With this auxiliary fence, adding any of these five must-have accessories is quick and easy. Departments Readers' Tips 4 Shop-tested tips to solve common woodworking problems. Sources _ _ 31 Mail-order sources and supplies to help you build the projects featured in this issue. Air Compressor Caddy page 6 Assembly Table page 1 . 4 Auxiliary Fence page 26 No. 60 ShopNotes TIPS & TECHNIQUES Readers’ Tips • Workbench with Lumber 5torage ■ Since I have my shop in a small, one-car garage, finding the space for lumber storage has always been a problem for me. So when I was building a new workbench recently, I decided to incorporate lumber storage into the base of the bench. The base of the bench is built pri- marily out of “two-by” stock. It con- sists of four trestles that support the benchtop and provide a place for cre- ating a rack to hold lumber. Each trestle is made up of two legs and an upper and lower rail. The legs are built up by gluing together two 2x4s. Then a series of holes is drilled in the outside face of each leg. (These holes are for short lengths of iron pipe that will serve as the lumber rack.) Lap joints connect the upper and lower rails to the legs. The lower rails also have a couple of notches that will hold some stretchers. Once the joinery is complete, the trestles are assembled with glue and screws. The trestles are braced with stretchers that fit into the notches cut in the lower rails. These stretchers are just a couple of 1x4s that are screwed in place. As an extra precaution against racking, a piece of 3 / 4 n -thick plywood is screwed to the inside face of the legs on one side of the trestles. This serves as a stiffener and also creates a convenient place for storing left- over sheet goods. The top of the workbench is held in place with dowels. Simply drill matching holes in the top of the tres- tles and the underside of the work- bench top. Then glue short dowel pins into the trestles and set the top down over them. The last step is to create the racks for the lumber storage. This is just a matter of inserting some foot-long pieces of iron pipe into the holes drilled in the sides of the workbench legs. Then the lumber can be placed on top of the racks. Eric Johnson Edgewood, Kentucky 4 ShopNotes No. 60 Quick Tips . A To lubricate screws before driving them, Gary Ratajczak, of Broadalbin, NY, drilled a couple of holes in the edge of his bench and filled them with beeswax. Finishing Stand _ A To get a better grip on her keyless chuck, Yolanda Gilissen, of Beloeil, Quebec, slips a rubber band taken from a bunch of broccoli over the chuck. ■< By clamping his cleaning stick in a hand screw, R. B. Himes . of Vienna, OH, has both hands free to hold his belt sander when cleaning the belt. ■ Painting a door is one of those projects that always seems to take twice as long as it should. That’s because after painting one side of the door, you have to let the paint dry before you can turn the door over to paint the other side. To get around this problem, I came up with a simple solution. I built a couple of support stands that hold the door without touching it, allowing you to paint both sides at one time. The support stands are made out of 2x4s (see drawing below) . The ver- tical post of each stand is made by gluing togther two pieces of 2x4 mate- rial. One of the pieces is about 3%" longer than the other and has a half- round slot or groove on the end. Four legs screwed to the bottom of the post in a pinwheel fashion provide a wide base for good stability. To use the stands, simply drive a nail or screw into each end of the door, centered on the door’s width. Then just set the door on the stands, with the nail resting in the grooves on the ends of the posts (see side view drawing at left). The door should be perfectly balanced now, allowing you to paint one side and then gently flip the door over to paint the opposite side. Jim Burgess Clancy, Montana Send in Your Shop Tips If you have a unique shop tip, we’d like to consider featuring it in one or more of our print or electronic publications. We’ll pay up to $200 for a tip we pub- lish. Just write down the tip and mail it to ShopNotes, Attn.: Readers’ Tips, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312. Or FAX it to 515-282-6741, or send us an e-mail at shopnotes@shopnotes.com. Please include your name, address and daytime phone number in case we have any questions. Free Tips WFfJ^ rf f/sq 'i Get more wood- working tips free. Visit us on the Web at ShopNotes.com Sign up to receive a free shop tip by email every week. No. 60 ShopNotes 5 Air Compressor Caddy You can have com- pressed air wherever you need it with this handy compressor caddy build it, start by cutting out blanks for the back, sides, and bottom from a sheet of 3 / 4 " plywood, as shown in Figure 1. Note: You may need to adjust the width of the back and the width and length of the bottom to suit your compressor. Back - To make the back (A), start by laying out and cutting the opening near the top for the handle. This opening is large enough to allow you to get a two-handed grip on the caddy, making it easier to lift it over a step or obstacle. To lay out the opening, you’ll need to draw a few circles to establish the corners, like you see in Figure 2. Then after drilling a starter hole, the waste can be cut out using a sabre saw. To smooth out the edges of the opening, I used a drum sander in my drill press. With the cutout for the handle complete, you can cut the tapers on the sides of the back, again using a sabre saw (or a band saw) . Sides - I made the sides (B) of the caddy next. As you can see in Figure 3, this is simply a matter of cutting a taper on the front edge of each side piece and rounding over the sharp corners. W hen I bought a portable air compressor, I was excited at the thought of being able to take the compressor with me anywhere I wanted. But what I didn’t realize is what an effort it is to lift one of these “portable” compressors and carry it around. In addition to the weight, it’s hard to move the compressor any distance without getting tangled up in the cord or air hose. This caddy solves those prob- lems. It’s actually a bit like a moving dolly for your compressor. All you have to do is tilt it back and wheel the compressor to where you want it As a bonus, there’s a handy storage tray for accessories and a place on the back to coil the air hose when you’re done using the compressor, see photo. The caddy is constructed almost entirely of plywood. To ^ FIGUF SIDE VIEW ShopNotes No. 60 Rabbets - To help keep all the ^pparts aligned during assembly, rab- bets are cut along the bottom edge of the back and along the bottom and back edges of the side pieces. These rabbets are all identical. You can see how I set up my saw to cut them Figure 3a. Just remember that when cutting the rabbets in the sides, you’ll need to make a left-hand side and a right-hand side, like you see in Figure 3. Bottom - There’s not much to making the bottom (C). It’s just a matter of rounding off the front cor- ners of the blank, as shown in Figure 1 on the opposite page. Before assembling the pieces, I routed roundovers on some of the sharp edges to make them a little more comfortable to handle. But not all the edges are rounded over. To see which ones are and which ones aren’t, take a look at Figure 1. Assembly - With the roundovers complete, you can assemble the • caddy. This is just a matter of gluing and screwing the pieces together, as shown in Figures 1 and la. Hose Cleats One of the things that’s always been a bit of a problem for me when it comes to using a compressor is • keeping the air hose organized. Mine is usually lying in a heap on the floor like a plateful of spaghetti. To remedy this situation, the air hose is wrapped around a pair of hose cleats mounted to the back of the caddy, as shown in the photo at left This makes it easier to quickly coil tiie hose up after each use. As you can see in Figure 4, each hose cleat is made up of two parts — a hardwood spacer block (D) and a plywood cap (E). To protect the hose from getting kinked or dam- aged while it is wrapped around the cleats, the ends of each spacer block are rounded over. You can cut the waste away with a band saw or sabre saw and then sand the ends smooth. The plywood caps hold the hose in place. The ends of these caps are also rounded to match the blocks and the edges are rounded over with a router. The plywood caps are simply glued and screwed to the blocks. Then the hose cleats are screwed to the back of the caddy, as shown in Figure 4a. No. 60 ShopNotes 7 SHOP PROJECT ▲ Drilling Round Stock. To drill the cross hole for the cotter pin, hold the axle in a V-shaped block. strengthen the caddy and protect it from damage as it’s moved around, aluminum angle is applied to the cor- ners. Once this is done, wheels will be added to make the caddy mobile. Aluminum Angle - If you take a look at Figure 5 you’ll notice that the caddy uses five pieces of aluminum angle. There are two vertical pieces back and bottom. I cut these pieces to length with a hacksaw. Aluminum is fairly soft as metals go, so it cuts easily. The lengths for each piece are shown in Figures 5 and 7. After cutting all the angle pieces to length, you can lay out the screw hole locations. Once this is done, go ahead and drill and countersink each Figures 6a and 6b. In addition to the screw holes, a ^"-dia. hole is drilled in the two ver- tical pieces of aluminum angle for the wheel axle (Figure 6). It’s impor- tant to lay these holes out carefully so that they will line up. With all the holes drilled, you can screw the aluminum angle pieces to the caddy. Start with the two vertical pieces. These should be positioned to extend Vs" beyond the bottom sur- face of the caddy (so they will end up flush with horizontal angle pieces). Next, the back and side pieces can be screwed in place (Figure 7). Wheels - The caddy rolls on a couple of 8"-dia. rubber wheels. These are mounted on an axle that passes through both sides of the caddy. To drill the holes for the axle, I simply used the aluminum angle as a template, just like you see in Figures 7 and 7a. The axle for the wheels is nothing more than a piece of W-dia. steel rod. A cross hole is drilled at one end for a cotter pin (see photo in margin at left). Once this is done, the first ShopNotes No. 60 SHOP PROJECT wheel is installed, and the axle is ^inserted through the holes in die "sides of the caddy. Then the second wheel is slipped in place, and the axle can be marked for length (Figure 5b). With the axle removed from the caddy, it can be cut to length, and the hole for the second cotter pin can be drilled. Then the axle and wheels can be reinstalled on the caddy (Figure 5) . Cleat - To allow the caddy to sit level, a cleat is added to the front edge of the bottom. This cleat (F) is just a piece of l"-thick hardwood. The ends of the cleat are rounded and then it is screwed in place on the underside of the bottom of the caddy (Figures 5 and 5a). Storage Tray _ The caddy makes it a lot easier to move your compressor from place to place. But what about all the fittings and accessories that go along with the compressor? That’s where this storage tray comes in (see photo) . There isn’t much to the tray It’s basically just an open plywood box that’s screwed to the front of the caddy All the parts of the tray are cut from %" plywood, just like you see in Figure 8. The front (G), back (H), and bottom (I) are simply cut to width and length. But the ends (J) are cut to size and then tapered to match the profile shown in Figure 8a. You can cut this bevel with a band saw or sabre saw and then sand the edge smooth. To soften the edges, I routed roundovers on all the exposed edges of the tray ends, front, and back. ◄ Tray. This tray makes a convenient catch-all for fittings, air nozzles, and other accessories. Once this is done, the front and back can be screwed to the bottom of the tray. Then the ends of the tray can be screwed in place. Attaching the tray to the caddy is simply a matter of driving in a couple of screws, as you can see in Figure 8a. The position of the tray is up to you. Just make sure thatyou position it high enough on the back of the caddy so that you have adequate clearance for your compressor. & No. 60 ShopNotes 9 IN THE SHOP Purchasing a Portable Air Compressor fety-Relief Va ve Oil Dip- stick Regulator Knob Oil Drain Plug pick up and toss in the trunk of a car. And with names like “hot dog” and “pancake” some I compressors sound more like menu items at a restaurant than power tools. But the thing to keep in mind is that no matter what style of tank they use, portable compressors all work more or less the same way. An electric motor drives a piston that compresses the air and pumps it into a metal storage tank. When the air pressure reaches a certain level, a pressure-sensitive switch automati- cally shuts off the motor. Then as you start to use the compressed air, the pressure inside the tank begins to drop. Once it falls below a certain level, the switch cuts in, and the motor starts back up. Although the style of tank is really I t used to be that an air compressor was a tool that you’d expect to see only in an auto garage or a commercial shop. That’s because they took up a lot of space and they were fairly expen- sive. But in the last several years, manufacturers have introduced a number of smaller, less expensive compressors, along with a slew of air-powered tools to go with them. As a result, contractors, carpenters, and home woodworkers have begun to discover the benefits of air tools and compressed air. Chances are if you don’t already own a compressor, you’ve probably thought about getting one. But once you start looking at all the choices available, it can get pretty over- whelming. So here’s a look at some of the design features and points to woodworkers are finding uses for an air compressor in their shop. Here’s how to pick the right one. consider when making a portable air compressor purchase. Tank Size and Style - The first thing you’ll probably notice when you start looking at compressors is that they come in a variety of tank sizes and styles, see drawings below. Some (like the one above) are just scaled-down versions of larger, more traditional-looking air compressors, while others are compact enough to IN THE SHOP a matter of preference, the size of the tank is a little more important The larger the tank, the less frequently the compressor will have to cycle on. This means that you won’t have to stop working as often while you wait for the compressor to catch up. The trade off is that as the tank gets larger, you sacrifice portability. Oil vs. Oil-less - One of the first things to consider when shopping for a portable air compressor is whether you want an oil-lubricated compressor or one that is oil-less. Traditionally, compressors have used an oil-filled crankcase to lubri- cate the piston and keep it moving freely (see first drawing at right). Today, however, there are also a number of compressors that don’t require any oil. Instead, these oil-less compressors have a piston with a Teflon ring to reduce friction (see second drawing.) There are advantages to both designs. Oil-lubricated compressors tend to last longer and run a bit qui- eter than oil-less compressors. But they also require a little more main- tenance. You’ll need to check the oil level regularly and change the oil periodically. This isn’t difficult, but by contrast, the oil-less compressors are more or less maintenance free (See the box on page 13 for some maintenance tips.) One nice thing about oil-less com- pressors is that you can use them on a slope or uneven ground. (Oil-lube compressors should be set on a level 4 Belt-Drive. A V-belt transfers power from the motor to a flywheel on the compressor pump. 4 Oil-Lubricated. As the piston and crankshaft turn, they sling oil onto the moving parts, keeping them lubricated. 4 Oil-Less. Oil-less compressors utilize an eccentric bearing and a Teflon ring at the top of the piston to minimize friction. surface to ensure proper lubrica- tion.) You also don’t have to worry about oil leaking out of the com- pressor. And oil-less compressors are a little less expensive than oil- lubricated compressors. Belt-Drive or Direct-Drive - Another feature to consider when selecting a portable compressor is whetheryouwantabelt-driven unitor a direct-drive unit On a belt-driven compressor, the motor and pump are two separate units, connected by a V- belt (see first photo below) . So if the motor ever goes out it’s a simple matterto replace itwith anew one. 4 Direct-Drive. With a direct-drive compressor, the motor and pump are combined into one unit. Many of the newer portable com- pressors are direct-drive. In this type of compressor, the motor and the pump are all one unit The piston connecting rod attaches directly to the shaft of the motor, making for a smaller, more compact compressor (see second photo below). But the downside is that it can be costly to repair the compressor if the motor should fail. In fact, it may be cheaper to just buy a new compressor. Both types of drive systems work well. Typically, however, you’ll find the traditional belt-drive system on larger compressors, which will also have other heavy-duty features such as a solid-cast iron pump for longlife and durability. The direct-drive compressors typically have all-aluminum cylin- ders or an aluminum cylinder with a cast iron sleeve (like some of the newer automobile engines). This makes the compressor lighter. If you will be carrying your com- pressor around from jobsite to job- site, you might want to go with a direct-drive compressor. But if you’re more concerned with longevity than portability, a belt- driven model makes more sense. No. 60 ShopNotes 11 IN THE SHOP ▲ Brad Nailer. Brad nailers and staplers are popular tools with woodworkers as well as carpenters. Sizing Your Compressor Before making a compressor pur- chase, you should ask yourself what it is you plan on doing with the com- pressor. The reason for this is simple. You want to make sure that the compressor you buy can handle the tools you plan to use with it Different tools have different air requirements, and if you buy a com- pressor that is too small, it won’t be able to properly power the tool. Air Pressure - There are two things to be aware of here. One is air pressure, measured in PSI (pounds per square inch). Most of the portable compressors on the market operate in the 95-135 PSI range. Since most nailers, sprayers, and other woodworking air tools are designed to run at 90 PSI or less, you should have adequate air pressure regardless of the compressor you select. All you have to do is set the regulator on the compressor to the appropriate pressure. Air Delivery Rate - But more important than air pressure is the compressor’s air delivery rate — the amount of air that the com- pressor can produce in a given time. This amount is measured as CFM (cubic feet per minute). Checking CFM ratings is really the best way to compare compressors. However, you should be aware that the CFM rating of a compressor ▲ Vacuum Press. A compressor can be used along with a vacuum press for veneering or clamping. ▲ Spray Finishing. Larger com- pressors will handle a spray gun for applying a perfect finish. will vary depending on the regulated pressure at which it is operating. For example, a compressor that delivers 6.0 CFM when set at 40 PSI might only produce 4.8 CFM when set at 90 PSI. So if you’re comparing CFM rat- ings between two compressors, make sure the ratings are given for Typical /Kir Consumption Rates Type Of Tool CFM (Cubic Feet Per Minute) PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch ) Blow Gun 2.5 100 Vacuum Press 1.8 80 Brad Nailer/Stapler 1-2 60-100 Finish Nailer 2.2-3 60-100 Framing Nailer 4-5 60-100 Spray Gun 7.8-11.5 30-50 Orbital Sander 6-11 90 ▲ Framing Nailer. Portable com- pressors can also be used for the occasional framing job. the same air pressure reading. In addition to comparing CFM rat- ings between compressors, it’s also a good idea to make sure that the CFM rating of the compressor you are considering will be adequate for the tools you plan to use. You can check the CFM requirements of individual tools before you buy them. Or take a look at the chart at left for some idea of the air requirements of commonly used woodworking tools. Brad nailers and staplers have fairly low CFM requirements, so they can be operated with even the smallest pancake compressors. Finish and framing nailers work better with a bit larger compressor, especially when used for long stretches at a time. And if you’re wanting to do some occasional spray finishing or sanding, you’ll need one of the largest portable units. In fact, if you plan on doing a lot of finishing, you may want to step up to a bigger, industrial-type compressor. 12 ShopNotes No. 60 IN THE SHOP Regardless of which compressor you buy, you’ll also need to purchase some accessories in order to use it. To start with, you’ll need an air hose. Air hoses come in different sizes Oengths and diameters) as well as different materials. I typically use a 3 /8 n -dia. rubber hose. Rubber is strong and remains flexible, even in low temperatures. Vinyl hoses are less expensive, but they can become stiff when the weather gets cold. I keep two lengths of hoses on hand. When hauling the compressor around, I grab the shorter hose (25'). Its shorter length makes it lighter and easier to carry. Sometimes though, it’s handy to have a longer hose, particularly when there isn’t a convenient outlet / Gun) nearby for the compressor. Since most portable compressors draw a high amount of amperage, it’s best not to use them with extension cords. Instead, us< longer air hose. Couplers - In addition to a hose, you’ll need cou- plers to attach the hose to your compressor and to your tools. My preference here is for quick con- nection couplers. These come in two pieces. One piece attaches to the end of the hose, and the other is attached to the tool or compressor. By sliding back a spring-loaded collar on the female halt you can quickly attach or remove the hose, see photo above. Recoil Hose Quick Coupler^ Plug X Vinyl Coupler k Air Hoses. In addition to vinyl and rubber hoses, the vinyl recoil hose shown on the ri, automatically retracts out of the way when not in use. Some air compressors are sold with one or more quick connect couplers already installed right on the compressor. With other models, you’ll have to purchase your own coupler and fit- tings. It’s also a good idea to pur- chase several of the coupler plugs so you can attach one to each air tool. This way, you’re always ready to go. (See the photo tip at right) One thing to be aware of is that there are different styles of quick- connect couplers available, and they are not all interchangeable. So make sure you pick one style and stick with it. (I use the Milton “M”-style quick couplers that are shown in the photo above.) & k Air-Tight Seal. To get a good seal between couplers, wrap the threaded ends of the fittings with Teflon tape. Accessories Threaded Hose End Maintenance Maintaining a compressor doesn’t take much time or effort, but it will help your compressor last longer. If you have an oil-lubricated compressor, make sure to check the oil level regularly (once a week) and add oil if neces- sary (photo A). You should also change the oil periodi- cally. (Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for the type of oil to use and the frequency of oil changes.) Whether you have an oil-lubricated or an oil-less com- pressor, you should also check the air filter from time to time (photo B). Some filters can be cleaned out and re- used. Others should be replaced altogether. Finally, one aspect of maintenance that is often over- looked is draining the tank(s). Whenever you use the compressor, you should open the valve at the bottom of the tank and drain out any moisture at the end of the day (photo C) . This prevents the tank from rusting out No. 60 ShopNotes 13 Adjust the height of this assembly table to match the project. Or use it as an outfeed support anywhere in the shop. This table can handle it all. Adjustable-Height % Assembly Table E ver wish you could raise (or lower) the top of your workbench just a few inches to make it a little bit easier to work on a project? Or use the bench as an outfeed support by rolling it around the shop so it’s right next to one of your stationary tools? That’s where the idea came from for the adjustable- height assembly table shown in the photo above. As you can see, the mechanism for raising and lowering the top is a set of handwheels and threaded rods. A few turns of each wheel is all it takes to raise (or lower) the top of the table so it’s at just the right height Outfeed Support - As I hinted at earlier, you can also use the table for more than just assembling a project. Since the table rests on large swivel casters, you can roll the table right up to a tool (like the table saw shown in the lower left photo) where it doubles as an out- feed support Just lock the casters and adjust the height of the table to an exact match. The laminate top provides a smooth, slick surface for stock to slide across. Worksurface - Besides outfeed support, I find the assembly table makes a good general-purpose worksur- face. So whether I’m belt sanding (lower right photo) or doing something else, I can change the height of the top to suit what I’m working on. The holes in the top allow you to easily secure a workpiece with bench dogs. Storage - Finally, the assembly table has two con- venient storage areas. Just under the top there’s a small area that’s perfect for keeping clamps and other assembly items right at hand. Or swing open the double doors at the bottom, and you’ll find a large compartment for storing shop tools and accessories (photo above). 4 Outfeed Support. Need an extra hand? The assembly table 4 Worksurface. You don’t have to use the table just for assembling doubles as an outfeed support for the table saw as shown above, a project. The top makes a perfect worksurface for a variety of Just raise (or lower) the top to match the height of the saw table, woodworking tasks, like belt sanding a panel flat. 14 ShopNotes No. 60 FEATURE PROJECT EXPLOPEDVIEW OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 45"W x 23V 2 "D x 31"H (FULLY LOWERED) (40" RAISED) BENCH DOG HOLES PROVIDE FOR A VARIETY OF CLAMPING OPTIONS TOP IS MADE UP OF TWO LAYERS OF - MDF COVERED WITH PLASTIC LAMINATE Cutting Diagram To get a free cutting diagram for this project: Visit us on the Web at ShopNotes.com Or send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to: ShopNotes Cutting Diagrams Assembly Table P. 0, Box 842 Des Moines, IA 50304 Materials Case A Top (1) B Bottom (1) C Sides (2) D Back (1) E Front Trim (2) F Back Trim (2) G Side Leg Trim (4) H Upr./Lwr. Side Trim (4) I Front Support (2) J Back Support (2) K Front/Back Leg Trim (4) 19V 2 x40V 2 - 3 / 4 MPF 19'/ 2 x39'/ 2 - 3 / 4 MPF 1&/ 2 x1 9'/ 2 - 3 / 4 MPF 17/4 x 39 - 3 U MPF 3 Ux 2-40i/ 2 3 / 4 x3V 2 -40'/ 2 3 Ux2 3 U-20 3 / 4 x3'/ 2 -15'/ 2 3 / 4 x 2 3 / 4 -16 3 / 4 x2 3 / 4 -13 3 / 4 x3'/ 2 -20 Caster Support & Doore L Caster Support (2) s / 4 x 3'/ 2 - 227 2 M Poor Panels (2) )6%s x 19 - 3 U MPF N Poor Edging 3 / 4 x V 2 - 14 Lnr. Ft. Top & Support Syetem O Top Panels (2) 22 x 42'h - 3 U MPF P Top Edging 3 / 4 x1 9 /, 6 - 12 Lnr. Ft. O Support Blocks (4) 3 / 4 x 2% - 2% R Handwheels (4) 4x4- 3 / 4 MPF Note: To Mid the assembly table, you’ll need one and one-half sheets of MDF, (3) 3' -long 1x6s, (2) &-long Ix&s, and (1) 2'x 4' piece of plastic laminate. • (6) 4d Finish Nails • (6) #3 x 1%" Fh Wood screws • (4) 5" Locking Swivel Casters • (16) #14 x 3 / 4 "Ph Sheet Metal Screws " (2) 3 V 2 " Poor Pulls w/screws • (2) Magnetic Catches w/screws " (2) Strike Plates w/screws • (2) V/ 2 "x 20" Piano Hinge w/screws • (*) #&x2"Ph Sheet Metal Screws • (&) s /s 2 " Flat Washers • (4) V 2 ”I.P.x ,s /w"O.P. Thrust Bearings w/Washers * (4) y 2 "-Pia. Threaded Rods (13" Long) • (4) %”-Pia. Hex Nuts The casters and thrust bearing/ washer set are available from the sources listed on page 31. No. 60 ShopNotes 15 FEATURE PROJECT Case I began work on the assembly table by building the main case. As you can see in Figure 1 above, it’s really nothing more than a large, rectan- gular box made from V4 11 medium- density fiberboard (MDF). MDF is a great choice for a utility project like this assembly table since it’s very stable, heavy, and quite inex- pensive. But you could also use shop-grade plywood for the case. One of the biggest problems when building a large project like this case is assembling all the pieces. Although you could build the case using a basic butt joint, it wouldn’t be very strong. And the pieces would slip out of alignment as you tried to clamp everything together. Tongue & Groove - To avoid this problem, I used tongue and groove joinery to act as an additional “helper” when it came time for assembly. The tongue and groove joints practically ‘lock” together, making it easy to add the clamps without things moving out of position. After cutting the top (A), bottom (B), and sides (C) to final size, you I can cut the grooves along the bottom edge of the sides and the ends of the top, as shown in Figures la and lb. Then all that’s left to do is cut rabbets on the sides and bottom to make the tongues. Assembly - With the joinery complete, assembling the case is a simple task. Start by adding a little glue to the grooves in the sides. Then slip the bottom in place and add some clamps. Finally, add some glue to the grooves in the top and then slip it over the tongues along the upper edge of each side. The next step is to add the back of the case. The back (D) is cut to fit the case opening (Figure 1). Although it’s secured later to some trim pieces, you’ll need to hold the back in place temporarily until the trim is added. To do this, I predrilled a few holes and then tapped in some finish nails through the sides of the case, as shown in Figure lc. Trim Pieces - Now that the ' shell of the case is complete, you’re ready to “wrap” it with solid wood 16 ShopNotes No. 60 FEATURE PROJECT trim made from “one-by” lumber. Besides protecting the edges of the MDF, the trim will have grooves that create channels for the threaded rods that support the top. Adding the trim pieces is a little like building with Lincoln logs. You just add one piece at a time until you’re done. I started by gluing a pair of front (E) and back trim pieces (F) to the case (Figures 2, 2a, and 2b). You’ll notice that the back pieces are wider than the front. This provides a solid surface for securing the back of the case, as shown in Figure 2a. Now you’re ready to add the trim pieces to the sides. As you can see in Figures 3 and 3b, the side leg trim (G) has a groove cut in it to create the channel for the threaded rod that will be used to raise and lower the top of the assembly table. After cutting the grooves in each piece using a dado blade in the table saw (Figure 3a), you can glue the side leg trim in place. Then just cut and glue the upper and lower side trim (H) to fit in between (Figure 3) . Leg Trim ■ All that’s left to com- plete the trim is to add some addi- tional pieces to form “legs.” Start by adding the front (I) and back supports (J), as shown in Figure 4. These pieces are cut to fit between the front and back trim pieces and end up flush with the side leg trim (Figures 4a and 4b) . Once the supports are glued in place against the sides, you’re almost done. AH that’s left to do is add the front and back leg trim. The front/back leg trim (K) pieces are made from the same material as all the other trim. And they’re sized to fit flush at the top and bottom of the case, as you can see in Figure 4. When you glue the trim in place, just be sure the inside edges are flush with the trim behind it, as illustrated in Figures 4a and 4b. This way, when it’s time to install the doors, it won’t take long to get a good fit No. 60 ShopNotes 17 FEATURE PROJECT Casters & Poors. To provide a solid platform for the casters, I added a pair of supports (Figure 5). Each caster support (L) is sized so it’s flush with the front, back, and side trim (Figure 5a). After gluing the supports in place, it’s a good idea to rout a chamfer on the corners of the case (Figures 6 and 6a). Then just screw the casters to the support (Figures 7 and 7a). DOORS ▲ Stability & Mobility. Locking swivel casters provide roll- around capability and rock-solid stability once they're engaged. At this point, you’re ready to add the two doors. They’re just 3 A n MDF panels sur- rounded with solid wood edging (Figure 8). Size - Making the doors is easy. The tricky part is determining the final size. The height of the finished doors is easy to figure out — they’re flush with the top and bottom of the case (Figures 8 and 8b). Determining the width takes a little more work. That’s because you have to account for the thickness of each hinge knuckle and the small gap (7i6 M ) between the two doors. To make this easier, I concentrate on only the hinge knuckles when fig- uring out the finished width. Then to create the gap, I sand the inside edge of each door once they’re installed. Now ifs just a matter of cutting the two door panels (M) to final size. Then rip enough door edging (N) to fit around the doors and glue it in place. Hinging the Doors - With the doors complete, the next step is to fasten them to the case. As you can in place with piano hinges. After screwing the hinges in place, you can add a set of magnetic catches and strike plates to keep the doors closed (Figures 8 and 8b). Then to complete the doors, I installed two metal pulls (Figure 8). 18 ShopNotes No. 60 FEATURE PROJECT Top- It’s a pretty good bet that the top of the assembly table will see some heavy-duty use. So' it needs to be strong, durable, and easy to clean. To achieve this, I made the top out of two layers of 3 /*" MDF covered with plastic laminate (Figure 9). Now your first thought might be to cut these pieces to final size and then just glue them up. But it’s nearly impossible to do this so the edges are perfectly flush. An easier way is to start by cutting one top panel (O) to final size. Then cut the other top panel and the plastic laminate oversized. After gluing the two panels together, I used contact cement to attach the plastic laminate to the oversized top panel. Now it’s just a matter of using a hand-held router and flush trim bit to remove the waste (Figures 10 and 10a). Dog Holes - Although the top makes a great assembly area as it is, adding a series of dog holes allows DRILLING GUIDE %"l r r