www.ShopNotes.com Issue 78 A Publication of August Home Publishing EDITOR'S NOTE wea m ShopNotes Issue 78 Nov./Dec. 2004 PUBLISHER EDITOR SENIOR EDITORS ASSOCIATE EDITOR ASSISTANT EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SR. GRAPHIC DESIGNER SENIOR ILLUSTRATOR ILLUSTRATORS ELEC. IMAGE SPECIALIST Donald B. Peschke Terry J. Strohman Bryan Nelson Vincent Ancona Phil Huber Ron Johnson Cary Christensen Jamie Downing Roger Reiland David Kallemyn Peter J. Larson Allan Ruhnke CREATIVE RESOURCES: Creative Director. Ted Kralicek • Sr. Project Designers : Ken Munkel, Kent Welsh, Ryan Mimick, Chris Fitch • Shop Craftsmen : Steve Curtis, Steve Johnson • Sr Photographer. Crayola England • Photo Intern: Julia Adkisson SPECIAL PUBLICATIONS: Corp. V.P.: Douglas L. Hicks • Art Dir.: Douglas A. Flint • Sr. Graphic Designer. Chris Glowacki • Graphic Designeir. Lindsay Rees • Videographer. Mark Hayes, Jr. • Sr. Editor. Craig Ruegsegger • Assoc. Editor. Joel A. Hess CIRCULATION: Circ. Open Director. Sandy Baum • Circ. Marketing Dir.: Wayde J. Klingbeil • Strategic Business Analysts: Kris Schlemmer, • Circ. Marketing Analyst: Patrick Walsh • Renewal Mgr.: Paige Rogers • Circ. Marketing Assoc.: Christine Forret • Circ. Fulfillment Mgr.: Stephanie Forinash • Sr. Graphic Designers: Robin Friend, Randy Shebek CORPORATE SERVICES: VP. of Finance: Man,' R. Scheve • Controller: Craig Stille • Din Financial Analysis: Lesia Smith • Sr. Acct.: Laura J. Thomas • Accts. Payable: Mary J. Schultz • Accts. Receivable: Margo Petrus • Prod. Dir.: George Chmielarz • IT Manager: Brian VanHeuverswyn • Electronic Pub. Dir.: Douglas M. Lidster • Sys. Admin.: Cris Schwanebeck • P.C. Maint. Tech.: Robert D. Cook • Assoc. Style Dir.: Rebecca Cunningham • Neio Media Mgr.: Gordon C. Gaippe • Multimedia Art Dir.: Eugene Pedersen • Web Server Admin.: Carol Schoeppler • Web Content Mgr.: David Briggs • Multi-media Designer. Kara Blessing • Web Prod.: Terry Walker • Web Pub. Asst..: Justin Gruca • Research Coord.: Nicholas A. Jaeger • Prof. Dev. Dir.: Michal Sigel • Benefits Specialist: Jennifer Westover • Hiring Specialist: Jessica Tesar • Facilities Mgr.: Kurt Johnson * Office Manager. Jeanne Johnson • Admin. Asst.: Brandi Hammond • Mail Room Clerk: Lou Webber ShopNotes® (ISSN 1062-9696) is published bimonthly (Jan., March, May, July, Sept., Nov.) by August Home Publishing, 2200 Grand, Des Moines, IA 50312. ShopNotes® is a registered trademark of August Home Publishing ^Copyright 2004 by August Home Publishing. All rights reserved. Subscriptions: Single copy: $4.95. One year subscription (6 issues), $27.95. Canada/International add $10 per year, U.S. funds. Canadian Subscriptions: CanadaPost Agreement Number 40038201. Send change of address information and blocks of undeliverable copies to PO Box 881, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8M6. Periodicals Postage Paid at Des Moines, I A and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send change of address to ShopNotes, P.O. Box 37103, Boone, IA 50037-2103. Online Customer Service. www.ShopNotes.com • Access your account • Check a subscription payment • Tell us if you've missed an issue • Change your mailing or email address • Renew your Subscription • Pay your bill Email: shopnotes@shopnotes.com Write to ShopNotes , P.O. Box 842, Des Moines, I A 50304 or call 1-800-333-5075, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm. Central Time, weekdays. Or send an email to: orders@shopnotes.com August Home JL jL. publishing company Printed in U.S. A. Cutoffs A s the days get shorter, it seems like I’m constantly running behind on getting my projects done. Consequently, I’m always on the lookout for shop projects that can make things go easier and faster. Plywood Projects - The five ply- wood projects featured in this issue do just that. For starters, each project (table saw stand, router table, multi-tool stand, workbench, and a pair of assembly boxes) can easily be built in a day or two. Each project takes just one or two sheets of plywood, a handful of screws, and some basic, but rugged joinery. Although these projects are easy to build, you’ll find they still have quite a few great features. Whether it’s some added storage space, extra worksurfaces, or the ability to quickly roll tools around your shop, you’ll find that these projects will make your shop more efficient and you’ll get things done faster. Best of all, you won’t be spending a lot of time (or money) in the process. Miter Trimmer - Another great project you won’t want to miss is the router miter trimmer on page 18. We all shoot for accurate results in our joinery, but it can be difficult to achieve. But with this simple jig (and a router), you can “dial-in” the accu- racy for tight-fitting miter joints every time. That means you’ll spend less time fussing and more time building great-looking projects. Framing Square - If you’re like me, -you probably have a framing square somewhere in your shop that doesn’t get much use. But with a few simple additions, you can turn a basic square into a top-notch layout tool you’ll reach for more often. To see more, turn to page 12. FREE TIPS And speaking of improving your shop, you can have time-saving secrets, solutions, and techniques sent right to you. Just go to www.woodworkingtips.com to sign up. You’ll get a new tip each week. STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION (Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685) 1 . Pubtootion Title: ShopNotes. 2. Publication No.: 1062-9696 3. FSim Dote: September 13, 2004. 4. Issue Frequency: Bimonthly. 5. No. of issues published onnuolly: 6 (six). 6. Annua! subscription price: $27.95. 7. Complete moiling address of known office of publication: 2200 Grand Avenue, Ucs Moines, (Polk County), lowo 503 1 2-5306. 8. Complete mailing address of the headquarters or general business offices of the pub- lisher. 2200 Grand Avenue, Oes Moines, (Polk County), lowo 50312-5306. 9. Fufl names and complete mailing addresses of publisher, editor, and manrwing editor: Pobiisner Donald B. Peschke, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowo 5031 2; Editor: Terry Strohman, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowo 5031 2. 1 0. Owner: August Home Publishing (ompony, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowo 5031 2; Donald B. Peschke, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, lowo 503 1 2 . 1 1 . Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning 1 percent or more of tolol omount of bonds, mortgoges or other securities: None. 1 2. (Does not apply.) 1 3. Publication Title: ShopNotes.l 4. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: July/August 2004 (#76) 1 5. Extent ond nature of circulation: Average no. copies each issue Average no. copies of single issue during preceding 1 2 months published neorest to filing date A. Total number of copies (net press run) B. Paid and/or requested circulation: 1 . Paw/requested outside-county mail subscriptions stated on Form 3541 2. Poia in^ocinty subscriptions 3. Sales through dealers ond carriers, sheet vendors, counter soles, ond other non USPS potd distribution 4. Other dosses mailed throuah the USPS C Total paid and/or requested drcutotion D. Free distribution by moil, samples, complimentary, and other free copies 1 . Outsidecoiinty as stated on Farm 3541 2. liKounty as stated on Form 3541 3. Other dosses mails through the USPS t Free distribution outside the moil (carriers or other means) F. Total free distribution G. Total distribution H. Copies not distributed I. Total J. Percentage Paid and/or requested rirculotion 16. Publication of Statement of Ownership. Will be printed in the Nov./Dec. 2004 (#78) issue of this publication. 1 7. 1 certify that oil information furnished on this form is true and complete. (signed) Terry Strohman, Editor 210,584. 153,290 0 22,390 0 175,680 78. 0 0 0 78. 175,758 34,826 210,584 99.96% .197,438 .143,230 0 . 23,645 0 .166,875 80 0 0 0 80 .166,955 . 30,483 .197,438 . .99.95% Or occasion, we allow componies whose products ond services may be of interest to you to send advertising moil to our subscribers. We are coreful to choose ethical companies that have information of genuine interest to our subscribers. Most of our subscribers Appreciate receiving these materials. However, if you prefer to hove your name deleted from the mailing list mode available to other componies, please write to us of ShopNotes, 2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, IA 5031 2 2 ShopNotes No. 78 ISSUE SEVENTY-EIGHT • Contents Features Upgrade Your Duet CoWector 6 Looking to super-charge your single-stage dust collector? We’ll show you a few handy add-ons that will help you keep your shop cleaner and save you time. A New Angle on Framing Squares 10 There’s more to this handy tool than meets the eye. Take a look at some unique “skills” in your framing square. Ultimate Layout Square 12 With just a few simple changes, you can turn your framing square into a tool you’ll be reaching for more often. Jointer Tune-Up 14 Our straightforward techniques will have your jointer running better than new, so you can create perfectly flat, straight, and square stock with ease. Router Miter Trimmer. 18 Don’t settle for poor-fitting miter joints. With this easy-to- build jig and a hand-held router, you can dial-in accuracy for miter joints that fit perfectly 5 Plywood Shop Projects 22 You can build each of these essential shop projects in just a few hours from one or two sheets of plywood. Departments Readers 9 Tips 4 Shop-tested tips to solve common woodworking problems. Shop Talk 32 Every shop needs a precision straightedge (or two) to keep tools tuned and to build projects that are flat and square. Tool Chest 34 The perfect finish? It just might be. We’ll show you the one we turn to almost every day for fast, consistent, high-quality results for all our shop projects — and furniture projects too. Sources. 35 Mail-order sources and supplies to help you complete the projects featured in this issue. Layout Square page 12 Router Miter Trimmer page 1 8 5 Plywood Projects page 22 www.ShopNotes.com 3 TIPS & TECHNIQUES Readers’ Tips Portable Outfeed Table Free Tins 3et more wood- working tips free. Visit us on the Web at SnopNotes.com Sign up to receive a free shop tip by email every week. ■ Whenever I cut sheet goods or other large pieces on my table saw, I have to find someone to help me safely make the cuts. This means delaying the start of many projects. To solve this problem, I built an outfeed table like the one illustrated below to use with my table saw. This outfeed table has rollers to move the wood along easily and is big enough to handle a full sheet of plywood. I can also place the table along one side of my table saw and use it as an extension when crosscutting wide stock or sheet goods. But best of all, the table is portable and folds up flat for easy storage when it’s not in use. To build the table, I used half-lap joints for the upper framework. Notches cut in the top of the frame secure shelf pins (see margin photo below) that hold the rollers. The rollers are made of PVC pipe cut to length with a wood plug in each end. A V 4 n -dia. hole drilled in the center of each plug accepts the shelf support pin that serves as the axle for the rollers (see detail ‘a’). To match the table to the height of the table saw, a wide support spacer was built using lap joints. This spacer is placed between the upper framework and the legs and secured with wood screws as shown below. To find the height needed for the spacer, I measured the height from the floor to the top of my table saw. Then I subtracted the thickness of the outfeed table and the table legs. Before adding the pedestal-style folding table legs, you’ll want to add 1 M shims to one end of the table base, like you see in detail V below. Then cut 1 M off both of the legs on that same end. This lets the legs fold up flat for easy storage and still sit nice and level whenever you need to use it with your table saw. #0 x 2" Fh WOODSCREW HARDWOOD PLUG Richard Beal Fort Polk, Louisiana k Roller Axle. Shelf support hardware mounted to the frame allows the PVC rollers to rotate easily. ShopNotes No. 78 To store his pipe Michael Schulz of Olympia, WA hangs vinyl covered ladder hooks, from the ceiling of his shop. Quick Tips k Louis Luersen of Granbury, TX slips a straight spring and a small hose clamp over his compressor hose to prevent air hose kinks. Wood Plug Prill ■ Cutting wood plugs can be a tedious and time-consuming task. So I built a jig to make it easier. This jig cuts plugs in long rows on thin strips of wood, so there’s min- imal waste left around each plug. And once the plugs are cut, they can be stored on the long, thin strip or cut from the strip using a bandsaw. The jig, shown in the photo on the right, is made up of two parts. The first part is a small (6 M x 12") ply- wood base that gets clamped to the drill press table for stability. The second part is a hardwood fence that prevents lifting of the workpiece and Press Jig PLUG CROSS SECTION J y guides the plug stock and the plug cutter. To make the fence, I cut a wide rabbet on the bottom edge. You’ll want to be sure the height of the rabbet is greater than the length of plug you want to make. Finally, glue the fence to the base so the rabbet faces for- ward. Then use your plug cutter to cut a guide hole in the top fence. To center the plug cutter over the plug stock, you’ll want to place the guide hole along the back edge of the rabbet and cut away a small amount of fence as shown in the margin detail. Now slip your stock in the jig and you’re ready to go. David Richards Rochester, Minnesota Table 6aw Accessory board ■ The table saw in my shop gets a lot of use. And I often waste a lot of time looking for the accessories I need when- ever I use my saw. So I built the quick storage rack you see in the photo on the left. All it took was a piece of pegboard cut to the size of the legs of the stand and some pegboard hooks to get every- thing well organized. I attached the pegboard rack right to the legs of my table saw with a screw and a wooden cleat at each corner. Send in Your Tips To share your original tips and solu- tions to problems you’ve faced, send them to: ShopNotes , Attn.: Readers’ Tips, 2200 Grand Ave., Des Moines, IA 50312. (Or if it’s easier, FAX them to us at 515-282-6741.) We’ll pay up to $200 depending on the published length. Please include a daytime phone number so we can call you if we have any questions. Now whenever I need any table saw accessory, I can always find it within safe and easy reach. Marvin Robinson Arlington, Texas www.ShopNotes.com 5 ShopNotes No. 78 Better dust collection, a cleaner shop, and cleaner air — they're only a few upgrades away. A fter I outfitted my shop with all the “real” tools, I finally got around to buying a single-stage dust collector. I dutifully rolled it around my shop, hooking it up to whatever dust-producing tool I happened to be using. Although a single-stage dust collector is a great way to collect dust and chips, it does have a few downsides. For starters, emptying a load of dust and chips can be a pain. Plus, you have to keep in mind that everything that enters the dust hose goes through the col- lector itself — dust, chips, and the occasional bit of metal or large scrap piece. And finally, even if you use your dust collector all the time, there still seems to be a >, haze of dust everywhere. , * i IN THE SHOP The nice thing is, there are a number of ways to solve, or minimize, these problems and improve the per- formance of your dust collector. SEPARATOR As I mentioned, anything that enters the hose goes through the dust col- lector — hitting the impeller. Not only is this hard on the dust collector, it makes me cringe every time I hear the clatter. One solution you can use to solve this problem is to add a chip separator like the one you see below. A chip separator fits over a stan- dard metal garbage can and collects the larger chips and debris before it all gets to the dust collector. It does this by slowing the air down and allowing the heavier stuff to “fall” out of the airflow before it moves on through the system. This pro- tects your dust collector and ensures that it will last longer. Since most of the dust and chips end up in the garbage can, you won't have to change the dust collector bag that often — which means less hassle and mess. Plus, when you do have to empty the garbage can, it’s quite a bit easier. Although the chip separator removes most of the dust and chips before it gets to the dust collector, there may still be a light coating of dust that settles on all the tools and surfaces in your workshop. a new one. CANISTER FILTER To deal with really fine dust, there is another option. And that’s to skip filter bags altogether and A Filter Bags. A finer filter bag will capture more of the small dust particles, keeping your shop cleaner and less of a health hazard. A Canister. The design of a canister filter ( top) traps most of the dust a id increases the filtering area for better overall performance. switch to a canister filter, like you see below. Canister filters are one of the more recent additions to the dust collection world. And one of the best. You can find canister filters that capture dust in the 2 micron range or less. And the pleated design creates a filtering area more than six times that of a bag, so it’s less likely to suffer from reduced performance as dust accumulates on the inside. Cleaning - To clean the canister, you simply rotate the handle at the top. This turns a pair of paddles inside (inset photo) to knock the dust free, restoring full performance. As you can see, there are a number of options for easily upgrading your dust collector so your work- shop and the air you breathe are cleaner. FINER FILTRATION The fine dust still ends up all over the shop because most filter bags aren’t designed to capture the really small particles of dust They’ll usually filter particles down to 30 microns. A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter or about 50 times smaller than a human hair. But fine dust par- ticles are even smaller, so they’re forced right out the bag. So what can you do about it? One of the simplest things you can do is to upgrade your standard filter bag. The fine filter bag you see in the center photo below will trap dust down to a size of about 5 microns. You can even get filter bags that will remove particles down to 3 microns. In most cases, you’ll have to replace the lower bag with a plastic one to force the air through the finer filter bag on the top. The upside — no messy bag to empty. Simply remove the plastic one, toss it in the trash, and put on www.ShopNotes.com 7 Top-of-the-Line Ductwork The key to controlling dust in the workshop is to collect it at the source and deliver it to your dust collector. Simple & Easy - To do this, you’ll need a system of ductwork and fittings. IVe seen everything from shops with flex hose running all over the place, to shops that use PVC pipe and fittings to get the dust and chips from a shop tool to the collector. Flex hose and PVC are used often for the simple reason that they’re inexpensive and easy to work with. Unfortunately, they have downsides. With flex hose, the dust collector has to work hard to overcome all the “drag” and inefficiency associated with the hose. PVC has a similar problem and tends to generate static electricity charges. Metal Ductwork - To avoid all these problems, it’s best to use metal ductwork for a dust collection system. Now I’m not talking about the pipe used for heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) you see at the local home center. It’s designed for carrying air around your home, not dust and chips. And it’s pretty light gage, so it damages easily and the suction of a powerful dust collector can cause the ductwork to collapse. But not all metal duct is the same. The type I’m talking about is the kind you see in the photo at left. This ductwork (from Jet , see page 35) is heavy-duty, so you can be sure it will handle anything that passes through your dust collection system. One of the nice design features of this system is the way all the duct- work and fittings go together. You can install an entire dust collection system without ever having to cut a single piece of metal. The reason this works is that instead of pipe and fittings that slip into one another, the ends of the pieces are rolled and butt together. You can see what I’m talking about in the photo below. Quick-Connect Clamp - A lever clamp securely locks the two rolled ends together (lower part of photo) . And a foam seal around the inside of the clamp ensures an air tight fit. Besides the 4"-dia. fittings shown, there are fittings, reducers, and duct- work available in 5”, 6", and larger diameters. There’s even a floor sweep available (margin photo), so you’ll never have to bend over and use a dustpan again. Of course, a system like this isn’t cheap. The clamps, fittings, and pipe start around $10 apiece and can run to more than $100. But like adding any quality tool to your shop, a top-of- the-line dust collection system is worth considering. and seals fittings together 3last Gate controls collection from tool Y-Fitting allows ductwork to branch off to tools End Cap allows for easy system expansion ShopNotes No. 78 Rolled ends on fittings makes system installation easy Wired Blast Gate. A relay switch on this blast gate connects directly to the control unit to automatically turn the dust collector on or off (see photos below). Easy On with Remote Control ▲ Control Box. Opening a blast gate sends a low-voltage signal to this control box to automatically turn the dust collector on (or off). T he best dust collector in the world won’t do you much good if you don’t turn it on every time you use one of your shop tools. And that’s the biggest problem with any dust collection system. For starters, if s a hassle to roll the dust col- lector over to the shop tool you’re using and hook it up. Then you have to remember to turn it on once you start and then turn it off when you’re done. It’s an even bigger hassle with a central dust collection system. The dust collector always seems to be in a far corner on the other side of the shop. So it’s all too easy to say, “I’m only going to make one cut,” and simply not turn the collector on. After awhile, it starts to become a habit. Automatic Operation - To get around this, you’ll want to consider upgrading your dust collection system to make the whole process more automatic. And there are two ways you can do this. Some companies manufacture a system for dust collectors that works like a TV remote control. Simply push a button and the collector turns on, hit the button again, and off it goes. But like a TV, keeping track of the remote control is a hassle. Wired System - A better way to go automatic is to use a system that doesn’t involve a hand-held remote. Instead of a hand-held unit, the blast gates are wired to a control box, like the one you see in the upper left photo. The control unit comes in models to handle either 110-volt or 220-volt dust collectors. (Available from Penn State Industries at www.pennstateind.com.) With this system, all you have to do is remember to open the blast gate to your tool. Since this is usually right by the tool, it’s hassle-free. Any time you open a blast gate (upper photo at right), a microswitch causes a low-voltage signal to be sent to the control box, turning on the dust collector. Once you’re done, unlatch the blast gate and a spring snaps it closed (lower photo), shutting off the dust collector. ▲ Send a Signal. With the gate open (top), a microswitch ", signals " the dust collector to turn on. Once closed (bottom), the collector shuts off. It doesn’t get much simpler, or more convenient than that. The hardest part of the process is installing the blast gates and then connecting each blast gate to the wiring that runs to the control unit. Easy Expansion - Aid if you need to add a tool to your dust con- trol system, you can easily add another blast gate and simply con- nect it to the existing wiring. There is one thing to keep in mind though. The blast gates only allow you to hook up to 4" ductwork. But that shouldn’t be a problem since that’s typically the standard port size for most stationary power tools. 'fm www.ShopNotes.com 9 ▲ Square it Up. A framing square is the perfect tool for checking large cases or frames for square. F raming squares are one of those tools that are so common you probably don’t give them a second thought. Sure, they’re great for checking large cases and assem- blies. But there’s a lot more to framing squares than meets the eye. History - The framing square has been around for almost two hundred years. The first squares were hand- forged from iron. Later, manufactured steel squares became the norm. Today, most framing squares are made out of alu- minum. Aluminum squares have the advantages of being lighter and not prone to rust like steel squares do. Size - Early on, there wasn’t much consistency in the size of squares from one manufacturer to another. But as framing became standardized throughout the con- struction industry, so did the framing square. Eventually, framing square manufacturers arrived at a “standard” size (16" x 24") that is still in use today. (See photo above for some “square” terminology.) Markings - If you take a close look at a framing square, you’ll notice that it’s covered with more markings and numbers than the timetable at Grand Central Station. To start with, the edges of the square have inch markings in var- ious scales (Vs", Vio", V12" and Vie", etc.). These are used just like you would an ordinary steel rule. In the center of the square, stamped on both sides, are several mysterious-looking sets of numbers. Before the days of calculators and electronic measuring devices, an experienced carpenter could use these tables to determine everything from how long to cut a hip rafter to how to lay out an octagon. Reading and using these tables takes a little practice, particularly if you aren’t doing it on a daily basis. (There are actually entire books devoted to using a framing square.) And while most of the tables pertain to house framing, there is one table that a woodworker may find useful. That’s the table for measuring board footage (see photo below). To use the board footage table, start by locating the column of num- bers underneath the 12" mark on the edge of the square. This column rep- resents the length of the board in feet. Find the length that matches the board in question and follow the line to the left or right until you arrive at the column that is directly underneath the number matching the width of the board in inches. The result will be the board footage. For example, say you have a board that’s 14' long and 10" wide. First, find the length of the board (14 1 ) under the 12" mark on the edge of the square (see photo below). Now follow that line over A Board Footage Table. By using this table (usually found on the back of the blade) you can determine the number of board feet in a given piece of lumber (in this example, a board that is 14' long and 10" wide). 10 ShopNotes No. 78 until you’re under the 10" mark. The result — 11 ft. 8 in. (or ll 2 /3 ft.) — is the board footage. Note: This table is designed for l ,L thick lumber. For 8/4 stock, multiply the result by 2. Other Uses - Aside from doing all sorts of cool calculations, framing squares have a lot of practical uses in the shop. I use mine all the time to check large assemblies for square. It also comes in handy for laying out lines on plywood or wide boards. But there are some other less-obvious things that squares can do that you might not have been aware of. Believe it or not, you can use a square to draw a circle. Start by driving a couple of nails at the ends of the diameter of the circle. Then use the square to guide your pencil (see upper photo at right) . Just swing the square around to draw two half- circles, keeping the edges of the square in contact with the brads. With the addition of a couple of stair gauge stops, you can also use your square to lay out angles, see lower photo above. This is especially handy for laying out stair stringers. Truing a Square - Unlike other tools, framing squares don’t require much care. But since they tend to get dropped a lot, it’s a good idea to periodically check yours to make sure it’s still square (see box below). If it’s not, you can spread the legs of the square slightly by making a punch mark near the inside corner. To close up the legs, make a punch near the heel, see photos below. iL ◄ Stair Gauges. A pair of inexpensive stair gauges (available at most hardware stores) allows you to lay out angles and stair stringers with your framing square. % Is Your Square Square? First: To check the accuracy of your square , place it along the straight edge of a boarc and draw a perpendicular line. Second: Now flip the square over and check to see if it lines up with the pencil line you just drew. If not, see photos at right. www.ShopNotes.com 11 ■ W r , working with wide . * ^ boards or large plywood panels, a framing square is just the right size. The only problem is that the thin, metal body of a framing square can be difficult to hold against the edge of a workpiece. But this “problem” became the inspiration for the project shown in the photo above. The idea was to take an aluminum framing square and turn it into the ultimate layout tool. Now Fll admit that the result looks a little bit like an over-sized Swiss army knife. But after giving this tool a try in my own shop, it quickly became one of my favorites. As you can see in the Exploded View drawing on the opposite page, there really isn't much to this project. To make it easier to register the tongue of the square against the edge of a workpiece, I sandwiched it between a pair of wood “cheeks.” Then I added a couple of extra features — a bevel gauge for laying out angles (see photos above) and a slide-out tab to support the square when using it as a layout tool (see photos below) . Cheeks - To make the cheeks, I started by cutting two strips of wood to match the width of the tongue of my square (l 1 //)- Be- fore attaching the cheeks to the square, however, I did all the machining. First, I cut a shallow, stopped recess on the inside face of the short cheek to serve as a pocket for holding the bevel gauge blade that is added later. I cut this recess on the table saw (but you could use a router table) . Since the saw blade leaves the end of the recess rounded, you'll have to square up the end with a chisel. ◄ Slide-Out Tab. A tab at one end of the tongue supports the square along the edge of the workpiece. 12 ShopNotes No. 78 WEEKEND PROJECT V x V CAP SCREW 14" WASHER 3 4 -RAD. VV-DIA. 14 M threaded BRASS INSERT www.ShopNotes.com NOTE: CHEEKS ARE CUT FROM V^'-THICK STOCK EXPLODED VIEW 13 LONG CHEEK (life- x 1W) STEEL PINS ARE CUT FROM \ x V/ 2 " Fh Woodscrews • (2) Sash Pulls w/Screws www.ShopNotes.com 27 TOP (24" x 32") #£ x 11 / 2 " Fh WOODSCREW A Bit Rack. With the angled bit rack, you can quickly see and pick out the one you’re looking for I t’s easy to see why this router table is such a shop workhorse. For starters, there’s the simple, rugged construction. This means you won’t spend a lot of time building it. Then there’s the large top and fence that are capable of handling just about any project. Finally, there’s even a rack for keeping your bits within easy reach. Sturdy Construction - You’ll notice in the drawing below that the router table shares some rock-solid construction features with the work- bench. It’s made up of a center box supported by four legs, and a pair of braces. This assembly is then sand- wiched between two end panels. SIDE DETAIL v BRACE BRACE BIT RACK 2 " RAD. .Tv u BIT RACK ShopNotes No. 78 SHOP PROJECT END : T:~ 7'~ :y r ~ SHELF LEG LEG A J ENP / / / LEG LEG S1PE - BIT RACK SIPE TOP :/ . / , « . ^ \ / f / - X I L. BRACE FENCE - TOP LAYER CUTTING DIAGRAM (43" x 96" - 3 /4 m PLYWOOD) FENCE MIDDLE* LAYER FENCE BACE ^ FENCE ' TRACK LAYER Case - The center box consists of a shelf and two sides. A brace is screwed to the sides of the box near the top. The brace serves two pur- poses. First, it prevents the router table from racking. Second, the brace supports the table top and keeps it from sagging, as shown in the ‘side detail’ on the opposite page. A second brace is located just under the box at the back of the table. It’s screwed to two legs that serve to beef up the end panels that are added later. At the front of the table, another pair of legs are added. But instead of a brace, I screwed an angled bit rack between them, as shown in the detail on the bottom right of the opposite page. Not only does it help strengthen the table, but it keeps router bits close at hand. Now, the end panels can be cut, glued, and screwed to the center assembly. Like the workbench, a cutout at the bottom of the end panels forms the feet that give the • router table a firm stance. The Big Top - With the base complete, I turned to the top where all the work takes place. Basically, it’s just a large panel that’s cut to shape. But there are a couple impor- tant details I want to mention. The first detail is a slot near each end of the table (drawing below). They’re used to adjust the fence and secure it to the table. The other detail to note is the hole for a router insert plate. (You’ll want to size the opening to fit your insert plate.) The hole is cut in two steps. First, cut a rough opening for the router to drop into that’s slightly smaller than the size of the plate. Second, rout a rabbet around the edge of the hole that’s sized to hold the insert plate flush with the top of the table. The top can then be attached to the base with metal corner braces (drawing below and side detail on the opposite page). Simple Fence - The final part of the router table is the fence (drawing below). This isn’t your typical L- shaped fence. It’s a solid beam built up from four layers of plywood. It’s attached to the table with a pair of ratchet knobs, washers, carriage bolts, and pinch blocks. To prevent the fence from binding, I cut a short slot in one end of the fence base. This gives the fence a little wiggle. At the top of the fence, I added some T-track for attaching stop blocks, bit guards, and feather- boards, like you see in the main photo. You can make your own accessories or find some at www.ShopNotes.com. FENCE TOP LAYER (2" x 32") FENCE MIPPLE LAYER (2" x 32") ■ FENCE TRACK LAYER (IVfe" x 32") #6 x Vz" Fh WOODSCREW NOTE: SLOT KEEPS FENCE FROM BINDING %3"-DIA. CENTERED THRU-HOLE £ NOTE: T-TRACK IN FENCE HOLDS FEATHERBOARDS, BIT GUARDS, AND STOP BLOCKS FOR ADDED ACCURACY AND SAFETY Hardware • (20) #& x f/ 2 " Fh Woodscrews • (4) Corner Braces w/3crews • 0) Router Ftate • (2) Ratchet Knobs • (2) 5 /w" Washers • (2) 5 /i6 n x 2} I 2 Carriage Bolts • 0 ) 32" T-Track (w/screws) END VIEW www.ShopNotes.com 29 DRAWER 5A5H cv/SCREWS DRAWER FRONT/BACK (0" x 21") 30TT0 M 5HELF (21 Ve" x 21V 2 ") BASE (24%" x 25") 5" LOCKING SWIVEL CASTER SIDE VIEW (BOTTOM) BOTTOM SHELF Hardware (32) #8> x V/ 2 " Fh Woodscrews (4) Comer Braces w/ 5 crews (1) Sash Full w/Screws (4) 5” Locking Casters w/Screws T here just never seems to be enough surfaces close by to set down tools, store parts, or acces- sories. That’s where this multi-tool stand comes in. It has a large work area on top that’s big enough for most benchtop tools, like the planer you see in the photo. The stand also has an open shelf below the top to hold parts at the ready. Another great feature is a drawer at the bottom that holds sup- plies and accessories right where you need them. Finally, a set of heavy-duty casters means the cart can go anywhere without getting hung up on chips or extension cords. Building the Cart - The core of the stand consists of two sides sup- ported on the bottom by a pair of shelves. Aback panel creates a space that will house a drawer, as shown in detail ‘b.’ The upper shelf also serves as the second worksurface. The top of the stand is braced by top supports. This forms a sturdy core that can stand up to anything. To this core, I added a top and bottom panel. The top is a bit larger to give you a worksurface as large as possible. It’s attached with metal cor- ners braces (detail ‘a’). The base serves to support the stand and provide a place to attach the casters. It’s simply glued and screwed to the lower shelf. TOP 5HELF 77 . m Shu l ! c BASE Ci ^TOP SUPPORT TOP SIDE CUTTING & is? Ci BOTTOM SHELF SIDE SIDE (23" x 23") ^ TOP 5UPP0RT x 21V&") CORNER BRACE w/SCREWS 6IPE A Basic Drawer - I added a drawer to the bottom of the stand to hold frequently needed items. Since it’s fully enclosed, the drawer keeps things pretty clean and dust free. The drawer is built from the same VT plywood as the rest of the stand and uses simple rabbet joinery. It’s sized to fit the opening below the shelf. To keep the drawer operating smoothly, I rubbed some wax on the bottom of the drawer sides. #0 x V/z" Fh WOODSCREW DRAWER BOTTOM (20"x20V2"- V4" HARDBOARD) BACK PANEL x 2V/&") SIDE VIEW (TOP) CORNER BRACE w/SCREWS DIAGRAM 40" x 96" - 3 /4 h PLYWOOD Also needed: 20" x 2 OV 2 " - !4" Hardboard for DRAWER BOTTOM TOP BHFIF BACK 30 ShopNotes No. 78 Adjustable, Stackable Assembly Boxes T he final plywood shop helpers are probably the easiest to make. These two boxes are like big shop dice. You can roll any combina- tion of heights to suit the job at hand. In fact, I think they’re more handy than a pair of sawhorses. What makes them so great is that they can be positioned at several dif- ferent heights or even stacked, as you can see in the margin at right This makes it a lot easier to position a workpiece or project at a comfort- able height for assembly or fin- the cutting diagram below, you can see how to get two boxes from IV2 sheets of plywood. The parts are simply cut to size and glued together. The short and long sides can be glued and clamped together into a simple frame. (Be sure they’re square.) Next, you can glue on the top and bottom. They are sized to overlap the side frame assembly, as illustrated in the drawing below. work, you need to take extra care in locating the holes to be sure they’ll line up. In order to use the knobs, you’ll need to cut a few openings in the top panel of each box. You can see the dimensions I used in detail ‘a’ as well. Bolt Together - To make the boxes more versatile, they can be bolted together. To do that, knobs fit into holes from one box and into threaded inserts installed in the other box (detail ‘a’). But for this to ishing, as in the photo at right. Building the Boxes - The con- struction is pretty straighforward. In Besides making it easier to con- nect the boxes, I’ve also found the the holes provide another benefit. You can slip in a clamp head to secure a workpiece to the surface, as shown on the back cover. NOTE: BOXES CAN BE POSITIONED IN THREE x. HEIGHTS OR ^STACKED Hardware (12) % - 16 Threaded Inserte (4) % - 16 Star Knobe %"-16 N THREADED INSERT^ INSTALL THREADED INSERTS IN ONE BOX ONLY 3 /s"xr STUDDED KNOB — LONG SIDE SHORT SIDE 05Vz" x 22") ^ NOTE: ASSEMBLY BOXES CAN BE \ BOLTED ^ TOGETHER FOR FORM SOLID WORKSURFACES SHORT SIDE SHORT SIDE ~~^ 3 / a "-16 \ THREADED INSERT %"xr STUDDED KNOB SHORT SIDE SHORT SIDE LONG SIDE (15V2" x 3 V/ 2 ") CUTTING DIAGRAM 46” x 96" - 3 / 4 « PLYWOOD (1 SHEET) 43" x 43" - 3 / 4 " PLYWOOD (V 2 SHEET) BOTTOM (23 1 / 2 " X 3V/z") BOTTOM BOTTOM (7 7 (7 7) TOP TOP IN Z) (7 Z) LONG SIDE LONG SIDE LONG , SIDE www.ShopNotes.com 31 M ost woodworking projects require straight edges and flat surfaces. The challenge is veri- fying that an edge is straight or ensuring that a surface is flat before continuing on with your project A sure-fire way to give yourself an “edge” in these areas is to keep a straightedge (or two) handy any time you're working in the shop. Plus, you’ll be able to use them as handy layout tools and guides. Straightedges - Straightedges can be just about anything, from short wood strips you make in your shop to precisely machined metal. As a matter of fact, you may already have straightedges in your shop you’re not even aware of. Shop Rules - For example, I have a set of steel shop rules in 6", 12", and 18 M lengths. As you’d expect, they get used all the time for a wide variety of measuring and layout tasks. But as shown in the photo below, you can use the precision edge on a metal rule to check whether a glued- up panel is flat or not. You’ll find shop rules made of either aluminum or steel. And they range in length from 6" to well beyond 4'. The nice thing is, shop rules can be quite accurate as straightedges. Many are straight to within hundredths of an inch over their length, while shorter rules are within thousandths of an inch — plenty accurate for most tasks. As a matter of fact, I have a 36" alu- minum rule that gets used more often as a straightedge than it does as a measuring or layout tool. ◄ Flat or Not? You can use a shop rule as an accurate straightedge to check whether a glued-up panel is flat — before the glue dries. Hie Ultimate Edge - Using a shop rule as a straightedge works fine for a lot of what I do in my shop. But for work that requires more accuracy, like checking tool beds and fences for flatness or tuning up tools used to machine workpieces flat and square, you’ll want to con- sider a machined straightedge. Accurate to a few thousandths of an inch over their entire length, a machined straightedge is the best choice where accuracy is critical. The 24” steel straightedge I use most often (see upper photo on the opposite page) is accurate to within 0.002” over its length. I find that a 24” straightedge han- dles most of my needs. But you can find straightedges in many lengths. You can even special order straight- edges in just about any length you’d like — for a price. (More on this later.) Whether you get an aluminum or steel straightedge is a personal choice. Aluminum is lighter and handier around the shop. But a hard- ened steel straightedge will hold up better in use, especially if you do a lot of veneer work. A hardened steel straightedge won’t be damaged by a knife cut that wanders as you’re trim- ming a piece of veneer to size. 32 ShopNotes No. 78 SHOP TALK Some straightedges even make great tool guides, like the aluminum model from The Pinske Edge shown in the main photo. This straightedge was developed for companies working with solid-surface counter- tops, like Corian® , where accuracy to thousandths of an inch is critical. That kind of accuracy comes in handy in the woodworking shop as well for checking machine tables and fences. Take Care - Whether your straightedge is made of steel or aluminum, keep in mind that it’s a precision tool. A straightedge can lose its accu- racy if you drop it So be sure to care for and store it just like any of your quality tools. (I hang mine on my tool rack along with all my other woodworking tools.) Shop-Made Straightedges - So is a metal straightedge the only choice? Not at all. I use shop-made straightedges in my shop fairly often — both short and long versions. For tasks where you need a long straightedge, you can make one from a piece of jointed hardwood or simply rip a strip off a piece of plywood. They work great for checking large assemblies like cabinets and table tops where accuracy to thousandths of an inch isn’t as critical. There’s even a handy set of straightedges you can make in your shop that are used in pairs — winding sticks. These “tools” are lifesavers when it comes to gluing up panels or assembling frames. For more on winding sticks, check the box below. Finding a Straightedge - Obviously, shop-made straightedges can be practically free. You probably have what you need to make them in your scrap pile. If you’d like a metal straightedge, you’ll have to buy one. Unfortunately, rules are about the only thing you’ll find locally. To get a machined straightedge, you’ll most likely have to mail-order it You can find a list of sources on page 35. Just keep in mind that their cost is reflec- tive of their length and accuracy. You can expect machined straightedges in the 18 M to 36" range to run any- where from $40 to $100. & Checking for Twist ◄ Do the Twist With a pair of shop-made winding sticks, any twist becomes obvious when you sight across the tops of the sticks. One of the most difficult things to deal with is a workpiece or assembly that’s twisted. It affects everything else you do to a project But you don’t have to battle twist During glue up, a pair of shop-made winding sticks can easily be used to check for twist in anything from a small panel to an 8'-long table. This way, you can “tweak” the clamps a bit to take out the twist Winding sticks are just a pair of strips that are milled flat and par- allel. To provide contrast when sighting across the sticks, one strip can be inlaid with a contrasting wood, like the maple inlay you see in the inset photo above. If the top edges of the two winding sticks are parallel, then the workpiece is flat Just be sure to check the assembly at a couple dif- ferent points on the workpiece or assembly. Note: Beveling the edges of the winding sticks will make them easier to use as straight- edges for drawing layout lines. www.ShopNotes.com 33 For shop projects , General Finishes Arm-R- Seal is the perfect choice . k Protection. You can “build up ” the finish by starting with one coat (left) and adding more five coats on right). A lot of people are surprised that I put as much work into applying a finish to a shop project as I do one of my furniture projects. They often ask why I do the “extra” work. Well, there are a number of rea- sons. For starters, a finish seals a project from the dust, dirt, and grime thafs always present in a shop. This means your storage cabinets, jigs, and shop-made tools will last longer and stay more accu- rate over the long haul. And for jigs, a finish ensures that the jig will work smoothly and prevent workpieces (or the jig) from hanging up during use. So whafs the “tool” I use to finish my shop projects? Simple — General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. Arm-R-Seal is about as easy to use as it gets. Plus, you can change the look and amount of protection on the project simply by adding more coats. Easy Application - As for ease of application, Arm-R-Seal is practically foolproof. All you have to do is wipe it on with a clean cloth or brush it on, like you see above. Once you have a thin to moderate coat applied, simply wipe off the excess using smooth even strokes. Don’t apply too much pressure though, it can result in streaks that show up after the finish dries. Done in a Weekend - Arm-R- Seal doesn’t dry as quickly as some types of finish, like lacquer. But you’ll still find that under good drying con- ditions, your project will be ready to handle in as little as six hours. Then after a little light sanding, you can apply the next coat. Even with the time you’ll have to wait between coats, you can still get all your finish coats in over a weekend. Build It Up - Arm-R-Seal is an oil and urethane mix. So you can con- trol the overall look and “build” of the finish. To get more protection, just apply additional coats. I typically apply three coats of finish for most of my shop projects. This provides just the right amount of pro- tection for shop cabinets and storage projects. But for my fine shop-made hand tools, or jigs and fixtures that will see a lot of wear and tear, I like to build up the finish with additional coats (see margin photo). All-Around Finish - With all that General Finishes Arm-R-Seal has going for it, you might think it’s the perfect finish. And you could be right It’s ease of use and the protection it offers make it a great choice for any type of project. I use Arm-R-Seal for most of my furniture projects too. Availability - You can find General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, at many woodworking stores and through mail-order catalogs. You’ll find a couple of these sources listed in the margin on the opposite page. You can also find a dealer near you by contacting General Finishes 3^ 1-800-783-6050, or just visit them at www.generalfinishes.com. 34 ShopNotes No. 78 ISSUE SEVENTY-EIGHT MAIL ORDER SOURCES Sources Similar project supplies may be ordered from the following companies: Framing Square ■ Finding a framing square isn’t hard — they’re available at just about every hardware store and home center. Before buying one, if s a good idea to check that it really is square. Some may not be square, so it doesn’t hurt to check it out As for the modifications to turn an ordinary framing square into a giant layout tool, you should be able to find the material for the hardwood cheeks in your scrap bin. You can pick up the rest of the hardware, the aluminum bar stock, cap screw, knob, and washer, at a hardware store. The cap screw and knob may be harder to find. Both Reid Tool and Lee Valley have them in stock, see the margin at right for contact information. Router Miter Trimmer ■ One of the best features of the router miter trimmer is that it doesn’t take much in the way of materials or hardware to build. Some of the hardware, like the threaded rod and aluminum bar stock, you should be able to find locally. The hardest-to-find items are the hold-downs and T- track. These I ordered from Rockier. The T-track comes in several lengths. I used a 36 M -long piece (21746) for the miter trimmer. The mini hold-down clamps come as a kit (25169), which includes toilet bolts and knurled knobs. I ended up using these knobs for the adjust- ment mechanism and bought two additional star knobs (23812) for the hold- downs, all from Rockier . The bit I used was a 3 A M - dia. straight bit (W shank) from Amana (45440). It has lVV'-long flutes, which should be long enough to handle most jobs. SHOPNOTiS PROJECT SUPPLIES We now feature hardware from ROCKLER in many of our new project kits. To order, please use our toll-free order line, see below. It’s open Monday through Friday, from 8 AM to 5 PM Central Time. Before calling, please have your VISA, MasterCard, Discover, or American Express card ready. If you would prefer to mail in an order, please call the toll-free phone number below for more information concerning shipping charges as well as any applicable sales tax. 1 - 800 - 347-5105 Dust Collector Upgrades ■ You can find a number of sources in the margin that carry a wide range of dust collection accessories to upgrade your single- stage dust collector and improve the overall effi- ciency of your system. ■ Most of the hardware needed for the plywood shop projects can be found at a local hardware store or home center. I did splurge on the locking casters (31845) to be sure they ■ As mentioned in the article on page 32, you should have a straightedge or two for layout work, to use as tool guides, and for checking the accuracy of tools and machines. Manufacturers - The Pinske Edge has aluminum models in six different lengths from 31" ($95) to And if you’re thinking about adding a complete dust collection system, a company called Air Handling Systems is a great source of design infor- mation as well as ductwork, fittings, and flex hose. were rock-solid when locked down. You can order them from Rockier. On the router table, the insert plate (35265), T-track (21746) and corner braces (33605) also came from Rockier. 150 M ($285), while Bridge City Tools offers a 24" hardened steel straight- edge (SE-24) that runs $59. Starrett has too many models to mention. But you can find out more about them by giving them a call or visiting their website. For even more sources, check out the margin.^ Rockier 800 - 279-4441 www. rockier, com Cartel's, Comer Brace, s, Dust Collector Accessories. General Finishes Products, Knobs, Router Inset Plate, T-Track, Threaded Inserts Jet 800 - 274-6848 www.wmhtoolgroup .com Dust Collector Accessor y Air Handling Systems 800 - 367-3828 www.airhand.com Dust Collection System Design & Accessories Bridge City Tool Works 800 - 253-3332 www.bridgecitytools . com Straightedges Lee Valley 800 - 871-8158 www.leevalley.com Cap Screw, Knob, Straightedges Woodsmith Store 800 - 835-5084 woodsmithstore . com Casters, Comer Braces. Dust Collector Accessor,, > . General Finishes Products, Router Bits, Router Inst Plate, Straightedges, Km >bs, T-Track Reid Tool 800 - 253-0421 www.reidtool.com Cap Screw, Knob Pinske Edge 800 - 874-6753 www.pinske-edge.com Straightedges Plywood Projects Precision Straightedges • “Online Extras” - Plans, Patterns, & More • Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online • Visit Our Woodworking Shop Tours Gallery • Project Plans You Can Download • Catalog of Project Kits, Tools, Jigs, & Plans • Forums for Woodworking, Tools, & Classifieds • Links to Other Woodworking Sites www.shopnotes.com Starrett 978 - 249-3551 I www. starrett com Straightedges 1 Online Customer Service Click on Subscriber Services at www.shopnofes.com • Access your account status • Change your mailing or email address • Pay your bill • Renew your subscription • Tell us if you've missed an issue • Find out if your payment has been received “ www.ShopNotes.com 35 these simple stands. For more on these stands and ; four other easy-to-build plywood projects, turn to page 22. Layout Square. Turn your framing square into a precision layout tool. All it takes are a few simple additions. Plans start on page 12. Scenes from the Shop Router Miter Trimmer. You can end miter joint gaps. This simple jig and a hand-held router are all it takes for perfect- fitting joints. Detailed instructions begin on page 18.,