MUTER TABLE RAISED PHILS MIME EAST TECHNIQUE ■. i it aw n ia . in i irwirmr & TECHNIQUES! A Pjjfthnnlm nf ^ngnrtf i :::-rr»"s PLUS! ' 7 EASY-TO-BUILD TABLE SAUL ACCESSORIES VoE IB Issue 92 Cleanup Center Contents Features Storage £,diu H-c-ne One- Wall Workshop Turn noy wall „-ifc a KXTjpso.r, LvDrffflpnfs/: Starting vwMi pur&tas&f cafi.v'iar.t :..I ttx: I L-jSiGfil/ZS r.^e CiX 1 /^ rt-i.'n Liw:;bL:-.->v:' Stotagapanedfa open t i&) cubtvte. b&n(y b u;iC!itO£5, and ,a Fin-tin mxSrbGOel • handt-on technique Rabbeted Case Construction Ql'.'.'dh^lj a Jtiaste op caiwio! l'iV'ilZiv 'r have to be a fflth ordfnary rabbet joints, !.vt i. .■ c$r cf&xtfi rocksoSd oaoos in no tirne weekend woriahep Cleanup Center l»jt>b«ih jigs & fixtures Dust-Free Blade Cover ♦ jT n ONLINE EXTRAS 16 26 30 YoL'f shop witl stay uex'. atld f >oy nViO'l l! " '/C\-' r cfeanittg xoptfles are organized mo sloes at ftarjd , : : i r.'i.ii fiafidjv Stonges e&nt&i 36 Gating HiCO &f dMfirg iwY.h a.U ife tifusr i' r l- 1 / ;■ :■ yaiir tsbffi ?-s Tn;.n stxjp-ifiade d.'lKYc dti^er ^ Witt pu? i k ip diM ::i te .L'.'.lIl'l". Departments Readers' Tips 4 router workshop Raised Panels on the Router Table 8 W\tt\ i'j^s ^ r i u U\'h l i l ai r y feflM fiftti'wy ibCo. !■'■■:" i , ! cnn ^'jfCKiy ^rci-_'iTc.'> ^Fesr”-fec^in^ raiayd panels at your rp\*tnr matenais & hadwara Heavy-Duty Wall Anchors 10 Use trissc 5i>Tip'e (a%tena/$ to securely arid C Jtt! fy a tin on wai i-nxi ur ■ i Gd Oil b , n ets i^^Sflficeasories Plywood Edging Bits ___12 h'i : d. ; .ng it\e eOgOS of ptywood le a snap w.'iVl inis eesy4o use pooler hit Shop Short Cuts_ 14 St 1 ■-■it- - fe Hied t ip S ’. norl l r?:'.:p L|r i ,' h-LI O i' JO £0 V'O Ln r ^ , Lii7.r?rtiY, L r, i . r :y ufObiefr)S 2 ShopNc-les JSI<>. !:>- Working with Dimensional Lumber Fr'CC: luTtitwr/urr! !q your ,ncxi pf&jstit — nsrs s few :c rje?; ins .TCsfeL'r 0/ /ymibe.r in the shop Pre-Fab Shop Cabinets lne:u?uCiursri sftop csbincts CZ\C: ■ r rin>,-p ttganizitigyotif afep d taws?* settingup shop 7 Must-Have Table Saw Accessories Wv.nt. i-d.'fj,'. taster, afe rwtc accu/alpiy vwh fhese fer'L?].-. tffet-uaf.'r ras p.nrf ^cwssofe-s. mastering the xabte saw Snug-Fitting Tenons_ A dZ'JC LVBite ff.np' r,y pgjXtBCfcniquQ vrti Hi V OCl-u 1 lO oiJ psr.^f- Wng tenons CVGy L'rfm. graat ctoar Miter Saw Accessories Gflf DCfet fBKLji'Ja aro mnrntrecl accuracy (.'Cut; ycwr niter mu/ H-ffi rfest;- pfea; ucijrsriss Q&A Sources I n Ilib 1 pvist, > i 1 ^^ 1 l ’h ■: 1 f-i'j- ha* iEMf hired a number of different ways to help 1 make your shnp tetier tfj^inLffid, Typically, this involved samu sort of thup-biiiLt cabinet eynLem. The imly dowraiete to making ci complete set bf your own is it L'-^n 1 h_' ;.a bit ti mu ctms Liming. So tliu tiim: we took a diffenaiU approach by starting with ea^y-ti>essemble r mimiAidiiiud ston^e cabinet. Then we de^i^nei] .a few custom nption&i to iiutkc the aibinttB work even beiter. For sUrlen- 3 , wr buflf L'rii-y Lv:j:rjyy, under< cumber Lrtol .'ulibihS, .i spiicx^iviiig flip-up workbench, and overhead lighting, Firvdly, we applied a sharp- lir:oki ng t , Lwo-inrtt- punt frnbh for protection. Ihc best thing abouL Lhis project is vote have lftb ikF so you i:"rir> easily m*.ke iL fit yrvur ■'hop and yuuF needs. bur mnreon fiwalmg your own one v-'nli workshop, tenure to ■: heck 1 mt the article t^ginning on page 1 ti. ew Sbopfiioles "^VEXTTME rhiir; symbol lets yoL ■2 oereiDE 1 X ei.oi.K _ j r * f • 1 CLC^ p^jse - -m LI v *> ' ■ ■ " . r" .■< .-■ Nozzle Wedge The puM-u p- ncwrlfr art, sonru glue buttfc helps dEsparw liw glue Mid keepe it from hardening when not in use. ISut dried glue usually accuro uliitcb inside the uozizie, making iL hard +0 open thxj nuzzle. I uitm resort to uring hi g-^t it Opm. But that tends to tear up the tvizzle, eventually miahci.g Lt unusable. To solve this pmhlem, f built thi.' simple tool shown in Lhe photo vrt right tu help lift up the nozzle. The loot lniy a slot at one end that‘s sizetii to fit the ricuzk\ It's Jong sq you can uae i I as a Lever to easily lift the nuzzle without doing any damage to Lt. The iKwIe 3 bring: tuol am be quickly buiJt firm a piffle of V lh irk lidjdwoudl. Sfcut by drilling a hole at nu^ end die tumc size at dne nozzle of the hottlo. TT:eo u m: your band aaw to eu L away lhe waste to ta the nutdi. then ait a bevel art the end with die nnlrh, as ahow n in Lhe d raw! ng below i'inahy round nver oil edgee of Lhe wedge w ith ^uidpapizr, A-ti/’rjL+f , Oivijv i.-a — T — ^ .. .„ , ..... ,— — - SIP^VIEW ~£rt — 1 m J _J — 3 N- mm _ 1 — Ffi . 1 K 1 ,'T p 1 ^ j ■■, i - SIZE ' 0 - MAnoii i -■ NOZZLE -UF ■' f £LUE SOTTLE TOpyiEW . 1 : ■ • : ■ ’ - " 1 2 H_! , 1 ja"¥ !■% Submit Your Tips If you hava an original fthop lip. we would Pike to hear from you ^nd consider publishing your tip in one or more of our publicefciona. Just write down your tip flrtd maiF it to: 5 hopNotas, Tips for Y&m Shop, 2200 Grand Avenue, Das M nines. Iowa 50312. Please include your name, add -res 5, and daytime phone number (in case wfl have any questions). If you would like-, yon can FAX it to us at 515-232-0741 or simply send us an- email message at: ehopnotas^shopnotes.corrt, Wc will pay up to S200 if we pu btish your tFp. CongraUiGatiefis to Stephen Ehrich of Lonlsvllte. Kentucky. Hia tip on making » miter clamping jig was selected ns winner of the Poiter-Cahfe footer just tike the one shown at the right- The j g makes it easy 10 Clamp up a single miter joint and hold ir in position untl I the g>iuo dries. To find out how you could win a Porter- $?■. i router, check out the information above. Your tip just might he a winner, tesue &2 Mar./Ap r. 200? PUBLISHER >-|-L-in r r^ci^ EDITOR Tf- ryJ. 5Uu rn-ri VAhAt MS E0ITGH Ery^h i COftHlIEUTIHC EDITOR tfiwerfc Arana ASSOCIATE EDITOHS =tl -l l*r. T* F^jle ASH5TA8HT EOllORi mJzHrsrr, Mvh Hnh« F^nJ^I A. CfcimL ^i'k rt EMCLTlYl ART blKtClCR Incn-rrhrh AFT DIRECTOR Corr Chiiilwnn- SSNICft GHA^HIE DSEHJNFR amt DSwiitiq StflIUH ILLUL-rRATOK Kc^nr Hn a^rl ILUUSTBATOHE k^l hi yi >1*. J. _j-. GRAPH Hi WSKN INrERtrS bnifcy : nnr. Ktf *= Fr^.pmyff CREATIVE mSECTORTsU^Mlwk bLJMIDR F3UJECT DESIDHEHE JWJM ML PHOTOGRAPHERS H r.-jv^ Frgis-vj. I^n : ASSOCIATE STYLE C-lULUOH Hrhc:u L .mr-ivrr ELtCTRCNIC IMAjSE 5PFCIAL^T /dd Fjun^u yibEOORAHRERS Erac HLrg^rggar, difrtmKi I-+-K ^•Jll JlI. 30fJL,X=v. u ,' U |: J B-j ifl P'lLlUj^, ;' lTU J Avh, IP# ! A4rw. I.n "-C :■! rSfrpft-ilL4F l- j. rr.Tr- Lnr* I Lt+IftatI rf f-ijrr, M ■ ■■ P . I ■ i.y i*:i iCPiVW-rfiW^ .'.|\-IT K-, ■ ■ ?* IjlUii+. .VJ nHJb- L-c.-#r-a-l. ■hi ur^MJ rji- cLurk--.li -y. -L H !.*. .!■:■ s m r .■ l he r I t U - in l^.r 1 ■■’/■; .JJ^T. -Lj. rn%1a.'lrt-d-jTjJ--LL-i r,iri rj 3. CufL LuiaLiiii r-u i-i r |#.mc Cuu\ V-r n 1 7 ■ "Tj* r r h 1 itJ-b-h IVdS^ .'\vr± - pmLPUoij lid N>.+j LfujM.v-rd:Ui =rHF U 10 . Bus =rtL rt-j.j-r. Ac+fcjy/lh l.ll'M'Ji. I'ptp:'! F:-i E.T P-jFidiiJih'#.^l J iJd ■' I jv *4 V ■ m ••:■ 'n irr ai - h r -i -. n j I ■ | ■ -iLn.-i --v-1 ■4wj^r- ! v J .ytirvn ■.- , ^ E'.'j. K-hci-l L'lLU< Lit. iMIFW. 5 hppftOlKjO)|B ONLINE 5UB5CI1IBER SERVICES * ACCBSS yjj- ac:cunt * ■CMEC-IC fi H n i >y_ I_1 ^d-iHE-it * TELL U5 11 *-o j"v? rir^l nr iw ■*= * CHAWCE-r) r rt -Ui jj Oi yn- .jl dn^ * lAUAJkkV >i:ur u.bi:npticn * MVyo.i mJI :i U. tn ~ - Li !»■ j Lui r lh: It: t lh; pH ■; ri- ,.^1 ■ fii it: djdc Ve _ u^ nx fii'rfi' ai I "tp ^11 _> rfiC4ig ^ ^ -j' | : ^ 2 :: ii.nl mTi-x-bi-FT i--* ct< *-*. rv=pc HOW TO REANoLeii.(.TC)[[L 5 Edge Trimming Panel Supports Whenever 5 uaeptywrod in bL.ild .=_ pmjecL iL usually meare hiaidrig to deal wilfLe-xpriaed piywrxxl edges that need to be covered iiut you'll find a few challenges to applying cdinn^ mid i]iidt-Ln^ it look great. Si nee T w .1 nl !b> be -sun.- 1 Iim a n j ewi plelel y cov- ered, I U ke Ln :=La ; L with the edging ; us : j ha ir wider than the thidaie&s of Ibeplyivoqd. rh**n once the yLnc ditet, the- edging can be trimmed tm^h. J like to use- a hand-held routo with a flush trim bit tr do this. But die dialltT^ge Lr hnbndng the router on the edge '_-i the ph- LVixxUe iT'iiike a I ■:.*■: J r i art, To provide s-LnbiLi tv to die panel* while [ rue. Ltd Uie edges, I used to damp two punch* em edge with IrA scraps hrtivpp.n Lhr-m. But. aLVomjSisbi ng this always aeeuued :o teke mere hmdF than J had Lo get every- thing d Limped m place ie make the iub easier 1 made the oimel supports shown in the pheco at right "ITp rty | i-ports ^ pp eafty to fan id 1 il] c Bribe inadv Froni Tiitap pieqe^ot stock. J made mine ham :j plywood. Each support bi_-u;Lni- with a lcqig'hitea: to provide mi B hea lod^Qipthe SQj&porttO the wivr kl:±'ii ol i. v -IptJ, gW up rwo layers ri# plywood bo create a center divider and attach it upright on the ba*e. 1 lii :h aepar atea the- two panels to be trimmed and pim iden a wi de auifecE xen - clamping the panels securely in poEdtioni. then. Lo hold rt'L.: p] y wood pyrnds in place whi ; e I attach the el imps, j . j s I add .i dior'let* n.J^ide *.jp|Wl on e Hit- side. OsJTEIDE O^rUFT NDTEi auon fWNEL DUFFt7*T& BEFORE CLAMF NS- TO T| f WOK up™ irk- no 1 0 hk ki'ji i i>.:- fSEE FHDTD] Ibe fup ports are easy tu yd up arid .sample uy;- AL you need co do is dug 1 . dft* two saip ports wjth yne l: jt«: ithi.T and then dump diem to your weiritbeueh; Aftv? si - p| i iri;^ ;d panH between Lne center divider and paeh nut^ide auppnrt.. damp tie pimeli te- die divider at each end, aa shown ir. the drawing below lioth panels me- row tcLurvIy Supported, making it easy to trim ttwtfdging flush- Just leisure to rontewh pB nel in is clockw i*e fii nerLinn in avoid kickback. j-Vo'scvr West J. \> Afo'nire. Ji, r ii:v END VIEW Sh^Notcs Xu_ Quick Tips No 1 #, you can have the best lime-saving socnrts. solutions, and techniques sent directly to your computer. Just go to w ww.ShopNotes.com find dick on FREE Tips by Email'" to sign up. You' roccive a now tip by email each week. Easy Storage Bins I've always liked Lhe old pull-out him- you used to find i n hardware Stowt- Tb duplicate Lhis look, 1 built t bit bins shown in the photo a t right. Thu bijLf hav t rnnpk- room for .storing hulk hardware items iwcuJ V^piryj; tbi psrta in plain view. The pull m the front forma a. hollow area underneath I he tnp. l'hik makes it easy to get your fingers unde the nt£l whenever you need tn slide Lhe bit OUt to (jut at the pEU'ls. TV bins the parts in plnce until the glue ia d ly. Now nil bi.it' 1 left bs to ±01 the bins with hardware. Theft you am ^t tt*m on a shelf or ynur workbench. Your bulk h^rdwaFo wiLL always be easi Iv aoceseilile. iSemid L-Y. Re ufceu Owhixxl, Cttiifomia k Robert Mtiore or -Omaha, ■ VF, \;se$ so orj'iV ■ .a i y ry j^t?e 1 ' lj-li i ?:. 1 ro ntfp centra' ffw ooru' Or? i'ji'y relief v/fisc .'is /toi ro oae ns s^pik food's ■‘i.iohn-r rYiOO 1 Otf0f fho EIOU Vk?t? p.'iic Pi J\e OL h ie? r h-r.'o fl-ysr r he hsnri'* www.Sh opN otewoin wcdti ALL -PARTS Are cJl uep together A -'“l Sfte £dbtosit proiyoha Charles Mak or Caiflar/, C&Ratfa. w#? storage zd&co forkr! poi+w toofc. Vho o r y^. r h : zeicJ a'.nd safety sfore-c? onf pf the oerjo's ro use them. FRONT NOTE: ALL '■AFTS ARE !-i' ^LYWHftO EXCEPT 6IPE& 'AHFCH ARE I-+" IIA^PPOAPP FEtffiB '|K h rJ-r"r -.HLt! NtfTEa HltvSEFIN CEMTEnET^y rwf/- ^T'DwetH3Kfll , i-VH(¥. ADJUSTMENT . PLATE ‘ V . iv. e I rhMCK SHCIILD i\P.IUS7 i tt; so 1 WASHER CtffeflNUOUfl rtiK$E. Civ - W CAUKIftGE KJLl NOTE: B SIZED TO - r |-NC)lll i>‘ ECU l"EE. TA!>LE NtfTEi ALL 3 ARTie V PlTYflMP With a si m pie auxi I i ary fe nee an d * a few common router bits, you can make great-looking raised panels. nwhJTi^ os r- y ftb.JUSTMEHT 6IDE SECTION VIEW Rcdid-wnod raised panels arc one •:ji r tbce^ wnnd- vcorking d.-L'taij s that dhvdyS drawi; alL^nlinn L-. - ' a project, buthfu-r their v appeal and Llie LTra r L^- tvi a. n - ship invuivud ir- making Lhem. 1 Lie touber table -Lifers \a grr;:l i>pLmn lor creating crisp, mug -fitting raised park-':-;, bul Mu 3 drawback can be the pricey, singk pur- pose roulBT bits needed for the job, Well, i ny solution L ci thi; a pmblecri is a simple btfhmque Ibal u^es nnly corninarv inexpensive bi bs along ivitli an adjustable ..iuv;li;dTy f*me Ln make cleanly routed noised panels- How It Works, lake a quk* lwk ;af r 1 ^ pho*o above and ynu'U unckTscond how ilv j ; technique works. 1 he adjustable icrh.L 1 you slv i* I ite key. ft can be set "square tu d>e table or lilted up Lo L 5*. This allows you tu rut a beveled (or equaie) border by feeding -hu [k.«in 1 on edge past a Lang , _ t:s igl M bit . Ynu follow up by routine - ft JecYrfaLive aliaulder around the b l 1 v lO. : m+. The Setups A s you wn set 1 itl the d rawing at left. the fence is cosy bo bt i ill I, so I won' t go in. to die details. Bait you iv i I -ttil * liLLle explanation of the basic setup of ibe jig and muLer table. The main photu above slxjws how lo ^L up ihe iu'JtLT raWc +■: ir the bevel oiLa. E start by installing a long aLraighJt bit (I ■:/ tu 1 V) in tK* rouier Lsble. You can rtn:n ;n lju-d I he height oL the bit io match the width of the bevel cuts. Note: A bit with n '4 ! -d™. shank will have leas "chattel*' and lffsve a cleaner surface. fhc nji il.v hi mpad Lo the tank: behind the bit. And Ibe fence face in tilted (or squiiic) 1 l.i 'v.ikb lhe been i ut, you can move the fence closer to the PlL and rene.il thf process You may need oo readjust Ehr END VIEW f E>n\H e^jw^i pd I EAl HER BOARD *.,*$■ LlOHTLr AlSl>JS-' ^AhJE'L ■%' -1 ! IILK PANEL ' ROUT pefEL wnn wujifie: FADE-ES inSe: SrrtiAiOlii em r ro rch i r SQUARE SHDULDEK rETUR4 ^rr<;F 10 an - ■ 1 Tfw Ciiass/c Look. A tiQi'&itx? harder ir b square $t\oi.;k 1 er 11 ■ L ► ’ r nil r i j,'. } \ J1 ! 1 : ■ : FEArHEV^il^H: ► "FiBl" Border. A f.'.if 00 fit O'- blending in\C‘ n u GVf? Cr&fti&B n mors- contemporary k. fea Lherhco rtl if hfir h.ijd staite te yet Too difj’iculL A Snug lit. Ihe best way loe^u! up ith li panel that fits snugly i?i [he frame gjeouves is to test tit iL ss t'ou go. Fio T always hitv^ r fin- i-ih^l fn'mt: piece dnse aL hand. When you gel di*<- to youc target, the cute shou Id lie " wh^Ver thin " This will give ynu Lhe : leanest cut a ul 3 allow you to sneak up cm a Lighl fiu f stup aithny when Lhe panel is -^IlI m liair hyht Ln the yrcmve and ihen firic-huic the fit with some Jigh L sard i ny. h ow, the Shoulder. VT.i k iryg tlh.' wide bevel cues leaves yon rvilh 'tt-vrr.jr'' tcvclcd shoulders. Thi J ; i s easy tn a'm.ed v and also al lewa ynu Le cus Lom i/e the im^filc. The process bene Envolvea carefij'ly cutting a square, chamfeied nr irMjndci.l vhunldcc. lu do thb, the panel \-\ |^?®ed uver tirn: router hit face down, flat against the hjblc- The j^oid is to seamlfissLy blend the iwo routed pmfilta. To i.l u thii-, set the bit heigh L carefully un-d toLTi sneak up on tlie final shapie by adjusting the fence between p^i.i -.p. r ;. You may need to do a little sanding lo smixith the transition. As you can see, therms, .nothing difScuSt about tliia technique. Hk ■;i grci^t way to make pml essional- loukiny raided panels tlia L wll I add a n i j xtm me a sun: ot craftsmanship Lo ynuj next projcLt ^ l"' r'o'-i/i i .I- .a ciissro raiseo pane!. r 4l -THICK ZO' CHAMFER y wrr E*HE_ L'-lT L-y' DIA.M |-.f ■ K! if\ii -Ct *5 ' ■ -t 1 - i. 0 t ► Chamfered Shovkier, AKsf miL'knji ,q ne^p mT' D£V&}. i 1 odd&ri & cnarutsr ro r be sbouteter. nidi ■’i' -'HKk :■ . FAN EL. B f. tlfc" I C-'HC-r ^ STRNOHi PIT wniviShopNoo^.oom 9 Se/f-£Jr Wing Toggle, WtiP 0 na-w \\ks n an'zidL! frr lW i7?ep infMdS .Yi'r'h:;," POfiSJll rcfJL.va? ,7 pii'or frdi'y A fences .V?s fa^gfc !0 fro .-iij?^r:i l iten uVjjLvs T op light & Hardware Can’t find a wall stud? These fasteners will solve the problem of hanging heavy loads. After c ompleting a sin sp r-abi neL. I went tu fni.njc; it on Ihe wa 1 1 near mv workbench — no problem, right"- We!,!, hKMTf 1 Vh.^.iV L a stud in a cun verueut plare Lo hang the cabinet ri^h l where [ wanted it. 5u I mfKl* a trip to true hardware slnre In look Jut anutt-ier dilution. T ended up mounting the o.i^ini -L using some Jaolleiv-LvAll aitthor*- These fasteners i.l M rihute Lhe wei^nt y>i a ii-:.iji I nver a wide eil e*. vuli il nr.' L need to hit a ^tud, But not just any wall anrhorwill ij ij the- job. Here"? a look at -_-_i r r i ■: ■ lieavy-duty anehurs >imJ C^n rely on. Yon should haw no bauble- finding them at a haul ware store, home center, or yu>- can retier to sources on ptfgfi F ! . (11 your shop has rjii.il id, in a arm. it walb, you'll want to taken look istthe hoy nn the oppioifi.' pa$e fore taw options) toggle bolts One ot the most fdEmlLa r and oonr- mon anchors you'll ind at tie I laid 1 . van. 1 store is a Lnggte bolt, as atvuwn in ihe phntO above, There an, 1 -i l\ti i p le of reasons why trials bolts aw so popular Tij>t. Ihey're in^voensive. (lhe '■W' bi>li* fthoivn lYTtL about 3U cunts.) The *eomri reason for tin 'i i pnpulaiitv is that tl ley' ll hold i Jot ot wuL^ht (uf> Lo 70 lbs. Jot each bolt). Downside*. Although a toggle bolt Lieurds j lerler.L. it does have a few l 3 owns idee, [he first is ihal liray ean be tricky to use wh-en rnLum.i±n[dr mb irwts, Tlse wings need to be aLlached to the -m r^w when it'^ installed in Ihe waJL. So yen'll tune tti inserL dw screw d' n.-uy-li heavy-duty Wall Anchors A Toggle BqN- An sconotoicai choirs ning.hg cab^eis, ino spring lO^deo'v.vnrj^ □ ;ci:i ! ;j!? dcH * wrj's H’l'-'iCT? upsn pusfretf through pilot hole the- oibuttl hark fiTKt. Thun you ear thread Lhe wrings on iuud pn r y- hiam Ihmuph the hole in the wail, as in die photo ihove- I h i‘- li-ods me Lo the other dn:-^- hack nr tupgk s bulb- It you ever need to remove Lhe cabinet, tlfc wings? will fall into the bottom i.^f the btud caviLy SELF-DRILLING TOGGLE T o c.ddji_-i* the f 1 n. il 1 1 ^ m ^ un boggle bolt*, you ran turn o. :■ a self drilling x^,pie. t r ni:H type of anehur has Lv. r o ac^ r aL"itai^iy over toe-^le tvilL=-. first,, the ;snehor can be driven inte 1 1 rywa.ll wlLLi just u. viTc'-hVLlfiver — without dril'iii^ a piloL hole first. The second EidvLint^e i^ Lhe anchor Htnyt ua plate wilhr>uL the screw, this make* it er^ry- to mount or R^H'^ilion Lhe cabinet. You cansceJio w the t. ■■gj-'le w nrks in dx- pin iu:c- below. As- the yrrew i:=- driven inti. 1 the n \ ichor, i L Lipa the toedc free. The due ads OrT^Lt'- up puxr IE^ out toggle fhp.n rjirflaoa .ti contcr hole Toggle is tucked insitfQ ^cho r 10 ShopNotiis No. 92 I>f thi. 1 >::rC'hV then engage she Loggli ■ arid i.l, r.j-fcv it tight t«: :■ the backol Lhe w;.blji So If drilling mggles e re moi i: oxpimbht: then higgle hoi (about emits 1. Lint they have Iotoah; -.i gn to anchor ir, my shop. Alu:-ir Llie Airily l3l>lv n^de to didlling toggles is LhaL Lhey u^j/t strong ■J"- h^u; ic bolts 1 only use Lhem \k ■ lo 11 k. p.-r iuudior. SHiPmSGLE Flt t'iu 70 turns when you wan L L«"i hang heavy livid* without n Lot oL h. i\-blo. consider using a Si JiiyTl^h-^ as in Llm pllOiii i.-Hj- In my book, it combines die hesl ■. if a traditional toiJglc holt ihi^h lean limit - £0 lt^.l with the case ot use ol a se 7 F- d i' ll ir-.f- tiynj^lr r*cnys in place). The Lliree plioki% :it rij^ht yhow ■liiw installed. bJnengLh ami oommniefve likr this come at a price.. Lhough. TK- soils tiira Litde more than a dollar, Armed witharryol Lliese ,i iii'luj-r'-, you Jiould have no trouble ha^- ing 1 iu. ivy objects And they give you Lhe freedom to mount a cabi- net rigl.it whe re you w,m[ ft. d * &nap toggle, norQ^cf}# anmor «n?r fcif into the w.a.' 1 Tne ■s. p .os. r. h| 'ck iCyy.'.j :.V toirf'rrr n.'aee fry n'in^iv:- cl'/Ju: uoJ.i'ar ho.'u'b fcjgBnte snugiy a? y/d .'V jnj >■ . Thick (oggie \S foraaefed for a machine scr&w --insisttatioa \0Ci drives inserts WinJet dArtt&ging threads Hardened thrash ore Signed to bite into masonry waifs Solutions for: Solid Walls Fins spread when ntM is tightened The anchors shown Libovt work just tine in sLud ivialls hut what i ,: your walk rre inaHnniy? Flton't worn, 1 ;, lie rv rt 1 rhroo jujoat options. I (\pansitm Dolls. The sn-lutkin I use iiii>>l Litton to provide a sum grip in a sol id wall i* uci uxpiinsLcm bolt. Et has a cone .i I one oud thac hnces three mexal lins an exp.imj .ig.s i iT. r tho -libido of tile piLci hole, as in Lhe lop phntiv Fspjnsnm Inyals, Along Llie ijanio lines as ^par'^ii lutc i^fMuisyjn inH-TtF (middle jilio«lL>,|. Tliey do ^l.itti mehrd tocriii- femn lo Lne sliape r.c tho \?\--A hole. TTi.tv ■ire hvo fi r pes; ene Ls de^igi ■■ k 3 fnr use willi kxInito-w^-t Find tL"pt iitlior 15- ;.i Chnnded. nvn-pieoe inser made Jot maLhlrk* m newr^. ► Eafp^rfSiToni BoU fc F^d-rvi iins wfrrige the fX'ti. Im'Ov \ ?i& Lm'i'-Jl tei'y i'sv n sr, r n 17.^7 gr ,^ lV; sn.na .T^.gsjj.'iry rVdjiVb. Tjpoun feiacw'E. l he aimpLe^t solid w .ill .ii n.hoi is n j'lTiveo 3crew (bnttomi. AlttKiugLi it kxiks Rimzlar to a w nod sc new, It:--:- Luiting ana tiinvTtds an- designed fm Til^Il] in^r :li masonry. Ttn; .idvontage Ls LhaL y l > i j n.in ^tndl one size hnle ri>-tit tlirong.h Lhe Ivh^c of your projeet and into the wj I I a L I lie s um: timo. hJo (PxittCi which at these ; ipt i>: ins you Lhiwe, tou' 1! need bo drill a pro porly sized pilnihiiJo irhxk the package}. To du thia. you 11 need a o.irbido mascimyr bit and a oouLod diiJ]. (A ha ii irrM-r dxijl, works best) Threaded tns&ft - -! / Ex.tiaiidx?\(i ins art tn anchor in wall WW. SllupNoLcK-tiom 11 Your router and a couple of bits are all you need to make perfect-fitting plywood edging every time. h EDGE, LEAVE A JTTLC ElYE* CPtfihliS difficult Et> fipt a gjxxl match with tluc; veneer so the tvinl woed edyin^ doraYt --I nd out Fnrl unatdjv H*** challenge* uan be easily mi H . A.I1 Lt Cakes !■> h *^t of spod.il to ll ter L -i iT_- mum ins Vloat of d>:/ difficulty Lr- a p [dying sdi- mg ■ i_>n'-+-> 3;=- you petition ano ghn ■ tlwi edging strip in pW Tt'v 1 RfargM S y ^ LUr yon sit 1 in iltc phuto h 1 helps you mIye riiL":ii j pn^bLetnS I h is RyRtem ouriSisU of two cdujiii;^ hiL= fot nvi 1 with -Y thkkmitertaL Aset foi V material is idsn> available page 51 i. The hat oO Ihe left cut- rece?- in the edgiftif J V plywood panel And the h : il r:r the ngot makea th« / matching cm vex profile: on th hardwood edging strip. L biL=- provide -vverd advantage Fin&t tin/ edging self aligns. ThL- make* il eaRy Do Kviit- the =:Lrip and il^mp iL ir.pka;. A no llieie'e a lot mi>ip Runkce ::n^ for Llic glue to make a shorn p. bcfrui. pach piloted bi: romes ivith two .QUj' it tv I shi ms aiieeiJy installed This setup works for mnRt ply- wood. Ltot if your plywood i? slightly inner or thkkefr addi- liccml 01 IT mpper shims come witfh MT Plywood is i= f;^at material re- building pruj^ts lint there is a pTobkm l he expusod edges- .aiETi't very attractive. The solution t- to clue a strip uf hnrd w'..od aver the rX | seeed ^dget- hut vou'tl tinu then? itre a low d'kd i engy ; ; whan it ecVetr> to mpf dying Edging Tlie strips often slip l.tij 1 of stigntnent ;b-; you dnmp t-mm In place. Atil 3 ynu usually neod to trim them Hush with ilirt Rurfacc urae the glue driPSv it's ::!**.! olLen % Shi)[)Noies Nfl. -V HrW.CWTCO-C? EJiSIN -5 l?flfcl£AVE OJTTIM& % CQHvtfc cun h,-:? mr SEAfTHfl tVMm HAN HI i twood WHMB h \Atnwocu 4 ARPWOOD r-iiCK^lEas ^ ARCHES- V PLYWOOD K W E 0 UT 1 ^ TAffl_i H-^TE i Concave PJyWEPOCf ^ TO iHW',1= ■=■ ^.V A'yrV-jLti' vkf 'SB r ,s p .a? r.^c fpp rod fjCTtcvo oftfie clftfooti, adjust lh& hit by D.oo'lop nr fE^oving snlrm as 4 frlm^MardWipotf flrf, ^on,HyL.retfrf? i” ,,r v-flftff Me .A' - ■ _■ i? L " ■ - H ". -T r Q ,;?5 A>:l: 30 GQLMlQUtat the top 3 r \ d bolt ^urfee ■ji 1 !ft£ hprdwooti u-j 1 .; j A r. L, F r n n-r,- 1-j-H,-, JMJfifes nrflfr^S i'f £ 00 p .ro LlCv'iiV:!' rVi'CL’ edging n&^ectiy evEfy £iVni 2 ■L'mL 1 r 'iV JL,' Jj L* up. the biEs to help you moke sure lhe matching profi le-i lire- up correctly Then 1 .irv .ilyu ,048 Hhinn-i Lo .-nalu- ic easier So work lv irh materials Li fee iwlcimiiK drd MTjr The whole piwfiS is pretty SGDftpk". hut to gel L h r 1 hi- -si r I_-L-.11 ] I; youTl need to spend a lit! In tune gel ling ^erydurig set up pmperly kan "fim’-hine" Lhe bit height at the rou le 1 table. I hen mu car 1 1 - j 1 - rh - edge 1 on the wor kpki 1 ■. Tbf next step La to cu! 1 1 ie ■; o do e- apply jidnu. sJip the piece* tingether. and attach the ■.k.mpH. L Liere'H no si ip pi ntr ,in.:.t thu Ld>tinp mntdiEE p? rfecl I y. Inni the Ldpe. Once Ihe gtoe d 1 ;H*., you i.dri dodde how you want the edging h> took- As shown in die draixing nr Ihe opposite p- ! ue.. attering the tri ml i ne i>i yes die 1 'Jit 1 n g -1 ;tif?£ien t appeals nee. Vikj r.iri h im it nt the gEueUne fnr a solid appearwue or ienve a little I'xtr.ytn beet Lt up. Vou can nven mdd a bn I' i ii t*.' hy using the bi : Rhnwn in Lhe hr:>. t^elow. Any way you dp it, vnull have a fine,, finished Look d Vv n ien you leok at Lh#e oils, you'll set* they come und* bearings h.-r handheld routing. Qul I like to them with a router table and tenee tor a more controlled c.uL T .ilv- fmand It's nEoeess^ri' to begin by pinning the haidwood UHsed roT ihe e^tging to the same thicknse riF d n .e plywot m 1 . This- wny V Til- lviii tvnjh up botn bits, in ti le AdrlH* mrnner lo ensure Lhi- pk-^es will lit kigelliMr perfeiTtly I IVhicti &i L First? Vou ear b;ipn with either biL Bui T ! n rid it easier to cut dv ■. rirv- r j| :sve pn -lile un the ply- ■wnod edft* fi -;t. I'tiat's 1 iec!a uh' the key te a eoi 'd clean nt of Lhe edging ^ aLnp b to ietn'e an equal, thin lip of vunetf ur. the tap and txjttom hem of the plywoend (Jett dr.uvjng EiboveJ. This way, T'li he Hue Li 1 Vwve the "L^t ^Liiouni of veneer on ootli t'aoe*_ PracLcce First. YuuTI want to make a tasv practice cuts in you Adding a p* Bullnose ■OUTER HL-^rt B A d : I i n |=r a Lmlhioft* pmfi le 1 ■■ ■ V '-tluek mk ™ a U?rul nn n lx- dune in n Kiugle .nu l+s f p;i.^ with the B\ir%e$x E£$t: Butimse hi. shown ut kh - I Lie Large I ihh r ri Lr -:;;ixi L - e used on ni :' s >ei the upper OF hivkr Side of the nittEra to allow vein to use yuur router Irny-hiuid. Tus-t use the ahima proy a iih.d VL-id'. the bit Ln sel lli.e eutt+TS to match the pi iTvnod lluiVness. then clamp a -.Ir.iigh-- slg* on the glusline to guinr? lhe Iws^iin^. J and you 're ready to n:-ur .nn edge liice ^ yyu 1 >i.e iu Hr.e- photo a t right. ■v'SHS F-EARNO H^PC.ViIO':' Cyu1 a chamfer around each hole In soften the edges and pre- vent chipout when removing the bench dogs- V-HA, SfSSPE fcIT ITRlLLihO PKfLLlHd JPG VxtW POWEU \ f j 14 ShnpNotes No, 92 Cover Support Option Thte blade cover on page 36 is designed to attach directly to a cast-iron wing or extension table lor sup- port. But the stamped steel wings on many table saws may ilex. So, to provide adequate? support, a different mounting Configuration may be required. The pholo cm die right shows a good solution to tlot problem installing a sturdy support beam between the fence rails is the first step. Detail ''b 1 shows how the support beam attaches to the rails for the table saw fence. Now, you're ready to attach the support mast to the beam. The notcdi in the mast is sized to fit snugly over die beam (detail V). 31 provides a solid, wiggle-free con- nection between the two parts. Finaily, extending a metal brace from die lower part of the masl to the underside of the table saw eliminates any flex in the lower part of the mast (inset drawing). W - iSk: nr CARRIE BOLT- . MA&T WEIGHT OF Bm "LOCKS' L-HCW* IN PLACE - TILT BIN TU SLIT L-HOOK THROUGH FEGMJARP CHAMFER &ACK. EDGE FOR TLT Support Beam. Adding a beam between the fence ratts provides a solid spot to anchor the mast of the overarm blade cover. Bin Hangers Bins that hang on pegbewd are a good storage option for the one-wall workshop on page 16. And these bins are attached by using versatile L -hooks. Detail ‘a" show how the L-htxiks are installed in each bin. To hang the bin. tilt it so the L-hooks slip into the holes ot the pegbtwd (Figure 1). Adding a chamfer helps with this. Then tip it down so die weight of the bin ‘docks"' the 1 .-hooks in place., as in Figure 2. This makes it almost impossible for the bin to fall off of the pegboard, yet makes it easy to move it around as your storage needs change Bench Extension Modification Adding a tail vise to the bench top extension on page 16 can be a lot of work. It You'd rather not install the vise, you can gain more work area bv making the extension longer Tills is just a matter of filling in the space originally us^ d for the vise. Even without a vise, it r s sHEI a good idea to drill bench dog holes. You can drill the holes direedy into the benchtop, using the indexing jig highlighted on the previous page. That allows you to use bench dogs and some other work- bench accessories, like the Verfras Wonder Pup , The Pup is a clamping bench dog that acts like a small vise. (Refer to Sources on page 51). w ww. S h n pN oles ,co m 15 storage solutions one-wall Workshc Turn a wall into the ultimate workcenter with these easy-to-build cabinet add-ons. The problem with most garage or basement shops is that they end up looking like the one you see in the inset photo on the opposite page. The challenges am finding enough storage, organization, and work- surfaces to work on projects, One- Wall Workspace. That's where the 'one- wall workshop" you see in the main phtrto really tills the bill It starts with standard garage shop cabinets you can purchase online or pick up from a local dealer t his way. you can con- centrate on organizing your shop and working on prefects instead of spending time building basic stor- age cabinets and doors. If you look closely, you 11 see that I’ve "souped up" the cabinets with custom storage compartments, shelves, peghoard, and lighting. Workbench. What T like best □bout thus setup is the workbench. You can see in the photo this bench has everything you. need for build- ing projects, including vises and a row of bench dog holes And when you're ail done for the day the trnnt uf the bench drops down out of the way like the leaf of a dining table. So,, by using manufactured cabinets and adding some custom features, you can turn a single wall into a great shop a rea . i Planned Organization. With a little planning* you can turn any wall into an organized workspace. Manufactured garage cabinets form the foundation. Then customized storage, lighting P and workbench options are added 16 ShopNotes No. 91 Chaos . Shop organization is always a challenge and often lakes a lower priority www.ShopNotes.com 17 cabinet POORS HELP HIDE CLUTTER AND KEEF OUT DUST STOCK PLASTIC FULLS "REFlACEP wm HEAVY- DUTY wire FULLS [SEE SOURCES, PAGE 51) CABINET HANGING SYSTEM: MAKES INSTALLATION EASY AND SECURE FEGBGARD PANELS MAKE FOR VERSATILE STORAGE SIMPLE SHELVES ATTACH TO ■ FEGSQARD WITH L-MOOKS LA Ml HATE P MPF TOP MAKES FOE A STRONG ANf? STABLE WORKS UR FACE Exploded View Details i IGHUNG VALANCE ALSO PROVIDES AN ABOVE' CAM El STORAGE AREA USrNG HANGING wall -CABINETS AS A BASF KIEFS STORAGE OFF THE FLOOR TO AVOID WATER PAM AGE SiiopNotes No, 92 NOTE: REFER TO SOURCES ON PAGE •SI FOR MANUFACTURED CABI- NET'S SOURCE ANO FAINT COLORS USEE ON CASINETS. LF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BL'ILP YOUR OWN ShOF CABINETS. TURN TO PAGE 2& FOR; MORE INFORMATION STANDARD WALL CABINET USED AS EASE CABINETS TO SUPPORT a STOM STORAGE UNIT HOLLOW AREA MAKES IT FAST 1G HIDE WIRING OPEN STORAGE -CUBBIES' PROVIDE PLENTY OF ROOM FOR TOOLS L \ \ IG' P x £4"W > 17^h'H WALL CABINETS LIGHTS INSTALLED IN yALANCE LKSHT UF WORK AREA i2*D x&TWxlTtfclH WALL CABINETS LtGHTS MOUNTED UNDER THE CABINETS PROVIDE AMPLE TASK LIGHTING CONVENIENT RECEPTACLES POWER UP - — ^ BENCHTOF AND PORTABLE TOOLS tGT3 » 24"W i STH WALL CABINET BENCH SUPPORT CABINET <& ANCHORED TO WAIL AND ADJOINING* CABINETS FOE MAXIMUM STRENGTH ShopNot a a f n ONLINE -EXTRAS Complete cutting diagrams for the One-Wall Workshop, are on our website ShopNotes.com 24"D x. 24" W * 72" H STORAGE CAfHNEi 2*4 STUD WALL FINGER HOLE BENCH SUPPORTS SLIDE OUT OP THE WAY WHEN wnr IN USE CR0&5 SECTION (END VIEW) WORKBENCH FOLDS DOWN FOR STORAGE RXED SHELVES FRONDE STORAGE SFACE WITHIN - EASY REACH 12TP * ZA'W M7V , H WALL CABINET^ FLlP-UP WORKBENCH ADDS EXTRA WORKSPACE WHEN NEEDED TAIL VISE IS MADE USING A PRESS SCREW FULL-OUT BENCH SUPPORT LOCKS BENCH IN WORKING POSITION FRONT VTflE BOLTS TO BOTTOM OF FLIP-MP WORKBENCH 19 www,ShopNote&.com main workshop Section To get started on your own one- wall workshop, you'll need to choose and install a set of wall cabs* nets like you see on pages 18 and 19. Then you can build the accesso- ries. to fit them (You may have to modify a few dimensions to fit the cabinets you use.) The drawing in die left margin shows the heights I used for mounting my cabinets. You can start with tile lower sec • tion, . 1 ? shown in the photo above. To save space in my shop, 1 used wall cabinets mounted as base cab- inets. They aren't as deep as stun, dard base cabinets. Plus, I mounted them off the floor to prevent dam- age rrom moisture and to make il easier to clean underneath them, Open-Front Storage. The chal- lenge with a small work area is finding a place to store tools like m\ bench grinder, circular saw, and router That's where an open- front cabinet comes in band y. It tits on top of the three lower cabinets (photo above). Building a Case, Figures 1 and 2 will show vnu ever)- thing you need to know to build the open- front cabinet. Dadoes and rabbets are used for all the joinery. After gluing up the case, add the filler ships on the bottom. They give the screws a place to grab when you fasten the open-front cabinet to the cabinets below. Face Frame. The face frame serves two purples — it both NOTE: s E06I HG AT TH ‘ ENP OF WF. ATTACH TG<= FLUSH TC CABINET E^: &ENCHTOF Oh fl !4 ME)E> _ . FRONT EDGING ENP (TjEPGING. .center } STILE OUTER £TILE ■ SIDE SECTION VIEW ... FH WC-QPSCEEW 'RAIL ■0 STILE ROUHP- & OVER m CQ -rt& S. TOP SECTION VIEW V 20 Shop Notes No. 92 i Overhead Lighting, L ighting mounted in the valances light up the whole workspace. A Task Lighting, i ights mounted under the upper wall cabinets are ideal for detailed tasks protects and hides the edges of the case. You can simply cut each of the pieces to fit and glue them in place, as in Figure 2. \ rounded the outside edges of the two end stiles In- fore attaching them tn the case. After the face frame is complete, it's time to work on the bench top, l aminated lop. The top of the cabinet consists of two pieces of MDF that are glued together (Figure 2), This makes a solid and smooth worksurface I hen it's just a matter of gluing hardwood edging on the front and left end. (The right end ^iJl butt up again si the workbench section you 11 build later.) Now you can fasten the top to the cabinets with screws (Figure 2b). Before moving on tn complete this section of the project, go ahead and install the three upper wall cabinets, as shown in Figure 3 You'll work eu adding lighting and pegboard storage next. Plenty of I pght. One thing most shops never have enough of is adequate J ighting. To solve this problem, a valance is added to I he top of the upper wall cabinets to FIGURE FKONT LIGHT R\\L@ (24 >: 73 ) * * * A Talon Nooks. Regular pegboard hooks tend to move around and fall out easily But Talon hooks stay put for secure storage. HALOGEN TASK LIGHTING NOTE: ail fAkt& OF VALANCE [EXCEPT PANEL LOCKING} ARE V WDf NOTE: refflfrftAED &fWCER5 ARE V * l‘4 H HARDWOOD hold i Increscent fixtures (Figure 3) r They east a bright, broad Fight into (he work area. Then for those close-up tasks on the workbench, under-cahmcL lighting is just the ticket (photos above). Building (he Valance, Tf you look closely at Figure 7a, you'll sr*e the valancn is constructed like a hollow box This creates a raceway for running the electrical wires for the fluorescent lighting. Under-Cabinet Lights, Small, halogen fixtures provide task lighting under the wall cabinets {Figure 1). You can wire them to a switch or plug them into recep- tacles above the workbench Peg board Storage, An easily accessible pegboard tool rack com- pletes this section of the project I glued ? 4 -thick stock to the back cjf the pegjboard before mounting ■t the walk as shown in Figure BOTTOM PANEL (12 * 721 CABINET *t> X £V f h wcw&carw END VIEW fTfUD WA i i ¥ T @ r® I't W ¥ -LL 1 W l #6 * fh WOOPSCHEW l added the front rail before attaching the valance to (he cabi- nets. Then it's just a matter of mounting the Uglily and making the electrical connections. 3- They space the pegboard away from the wall to let hooks slip in place (margin photo). Next, you'll work on the center section with the workbench. www.Sho pN otes.cn m 21 workbench ► Sliding Supports. Sturdy bench brackets slide out lo ievel the workbench and make tor a stable worksufiace. - T 2 MAP- V ^ ^ EAp, b. J The benchtop and storage on the previous page is a great addition to any shop* but the centerpiece of this project is the fold -up work- bench vou see in the main photo. To stand up to wood working tasks, h needs to have a stout sup- port svsfcem. This cabinet does the job with its two pullout supports (inset photo above). You 11 start by building the case with its partitions. Then you'll add the sliding supports and top. And you II need to install another cabi- net on the right end to help support the bench cabinet Later, you'll END © |2% SLlDE-DUT supports FIT BETWEEN VERTICAL FAEtmONS FRONT VIEW case eorroM fits IN SR QGVZ ON PACK PANEL HOTEl ALL FARTS A WEW MPF TOF SUPPORT SHOULD SLIDE SMOOTHLY WITHOUT VERTICAL FLAY ^ ■ j v? m f L_ > — - '# ® T r TRIMTCJF LD&E FOR SMLKj fit build and install the fold-up w or* bench, but first, you need to be : ttie bench cabinet. Building the Case. It you look : Figure 4 below, you'll see the c " struetkm and joinery of the case r . this cabinet is similar to die oper front cabinet on page 20- Hie or difference is the addition and let* tion of the vertical dividers tor ih sliding supports (Figure 4a). After you assemble the case wit glue and screws, just like you dw before, you can bui ld toe two slid out bench supports. Sliding Supports. The bene supports are pretty simple. shown m Figure 4- "nicy' 1 re piece erf MDF cut to fit in toe 4 lots create by the partitions in the cabinet, handy finger hole makes it easy t slide them in and on t- With toe supports complete, yo can finish out the case 1 by addin the cab inet face frame next. Face Frame. This face frame is little different than the one on tt storage cabinet you built earth Then? are only three pieces to mal 22 SbopNotes No. L . N0TE: tdp 15 T WO LAVERS OF MDF F^QNT , EDGING 1 NOTE: WALL CABINET mounted at HEIGHT DF OPEN-ERON? STORAGE . -CAB-MET TOP SUPPORT M !*■ FH WOOPSCRSW WORKBENCH CABINET l S SECURED TO WALL- AND ADJACENT CABINET^ FRONT RAIL HIDE 5 MDF and supports FLIMJF WORKBENCH urrLrrv t-UNCiE FILLER STRIP helps support FRONT RAIL FILLER STS 1 1* ( S' 1 .- * 60) STELE eternal) *sr ROUNQOVER N0TE: (Figure 5). I cut the two end pieces first. You 11 need to ait idlest 3 a little shorter than before bo allow for a wide filler strip under the bench- top. Round over the outside edge of each before gluing them in place. Then it's just a matter ol cutting the bottom piece to fit between them. Bench top. You ma ke the bench- top from two pieces of MDF. But there's a filter strip that you'll need to add to the font (Figures 5 and Ta;i This will help support the front rail where the folding bench section is attached with a set of hinges. Front Rail. There's not much to attaching the front rail to the bench top. It's simply glued to the font of 1 he laminated MDf and filler strip. But MDF tends to soak up glue, so T first applied some glue to serai the edges of the MDF, waited a few minutes, then applied more glue before damping the rail in place. Attaching Hinges. You'll be working on the flip-up workbench section later, but now's a good time to cut the mortises for the hinges and attach the hinges to the front rail. To see how tn make the mor- tises and get a nice, tight fit, turn bo Shop Short Cuts on page 14. Anchoring the Cabinet* There is a potential for a lot of weight and pounding on the bench, so vou w r ant to make sure the cabinet is anchored tight all around. In Figure 6 below, you r ll .s ;ee how the cabinet fits between the storage cabinet you built earlier and another man- ufactured cabinet. (Now is the time to mount the end cabinet, if you W?M FIGURE FIGURE FR.ONT EPGE {24 x 60) . MDf) stt ^p-iur 5H0R1 CUTS ON PAGE1* FOR HINGE MGETFSIN# I NOTE; all HARDWOOD PARTS ARE V THICK / haven't already ! ton'll want fo be sure to leave room to fit the work- bench cabinet snugly between the tw o end rabirtefs. Gn ahead and fasten the work- bench cabinet to the two end cabinets with wnodscrews, But for extra strength 1 also screwed through the back 1 rf the cabinet and into the wall; studs Small Top Section, Before work- ing on the bench extension, there's one final piece to complete. It's the top for the cabinet at the end of the bench. There's nothing new here — fust two pieces of .MDF and hard- wood edging on the front (Figure 6a). A few screws are all vou need to attach it to the cabinet With the bench support cabinet securely fastened in place, you're ready to work on the flip-up work- bench. TFh a handy addition that really makes this project stand out. 3. side view % * f ■■ © — 1 I? CABINET jj / H B H Fh WOODSCR EW- I ! ' m TOP (Iflfc * 24 - IV* MDF) TO? PIECE ATTACHES TO WALL CAeshET FOR ADDED WORKS URFACE www.Sh opM otes.com 1 Jt % N0TE4 TO auiLD FUF-UP WRKKNCH, REFER TO PAGE 24 flip-up Workbench With the bench support cabi- net anchored firmly- you can get started on the flip-up bench With a face vise, tail vise, and dog holes it's Ideal lor woodworking prop eels. (To build a plain workbench w ithout these features, take a look at Shop Short Cuts on page 14.) There's a lot going on here, but If you take it one piece at a time, you won't have any problems. Three-Layer Lamination. Fig- ure 7 gives you an idea of how the bench i* put together, It consists of two main sections. There's a large MDF worksurface and a hardwood vise section along the front edge. I started by gluing up and sizing the NfDF section using three lay- ers of MDF. Eventually the whole bench will be wrapped in hard- wood. Rut for now, l attached the back rail and inner rail. ADDING THE VISES As 1 mentioned before, the front of the flip-up workbench is made of hardwood and features a face vise, a shop-built tail vise, and dog holes. These really transform this from a simple worksurface to a true wraxi worker's bench, + Face Vise. A s - pie boil-on face vt$-. is a handy addition any bench Woody-- protect the workpiece Tail Vise Assembly. Building the vise section begins with laminating three hardwood pieces {Figure 7). 1 made this section the full length of the bench. One part of this glueup will hold the bench dog holes and the face vise. Another part of this section will be cut off to make a mounting block and traveler for the tail vise, as you can see in Figures 8 and 9 on the opposite page, 1 drilled the dog holes after the bench was assembled (see Shop Short Cuts on page 14). So you can go ahead and glue the dog h strip to tlie inner front rail, makr _ sum the top face is flush with tJ>_ bench top, as in Figure 7a. Mo uniting Block, After glume the dog hole strip in place, you car begin to build the workin g parts the tail vise. The mounting block is the "anchor point" for the vis- screw, so f worked on that next, as you can see in Figure 8. Once it's been cut to length, you can mark and drill the mounting block for attaching ihe vise sc: rev. NOTE: FO*. PRILLING BENCH DOG HOLES, REFER TO shop short cuts ON PAGE 1-4 FIGURE TOP 15 MADE f ROM fHREF LAYERS OP MOP — NOTE; ALL HARDWOOD PA RTS ARE THICK — Q^J)ehu TOP© - 0*4* 54^ - S& MPF) NOTE: MAKF EJfTRA-LQNG BLANK. (DOG RUN) FROM THREE LAYERS OF HARDWOOD n Zli - - USF THIS TO MAKF FIXED MOUNTING BLOCK (SEE FHSUKE (CD KAIL NOTE; SAVE E30RA - -FOR TRAVELER fllOCK (SEE FIGURE ff) a i. ,—-(13)- * . ■ LU 1 p— 1 . __ ' i/;V J r - j ’ > tf B v 2 n Fh — WOODSCREW m VISE OOG RUN SECTION VIEW S3) VIEW END RAILS ARE GLUED AND SCREWED FOR EXTRA STRENGTH 24 ShopNntes No. 92 VISE TRAVELER BLOCK MOUNTING BLOCK NOTE; mounting block a. GLUED IN PLAGE NOTE: U$E TRAVELER bloce. ro HELP faction guide VISE SCREW COLLAR FASTENED WITH SCREWS a HOLE TN MOUNTING BLOCK |5 SIZED TO FIT VISE SCREW COLLAR VISE GUIDE (□> STRIP 04 X 34 '10> VISE SCREW ASSEMBLY BtCOHD: SUDE SCREW : ■--. ■ ■ ■ .... - • INTO SWIVEL HEAD 4>‘ AND LOCK: WITH TCh There's one more thing to do before gluing the block in place. And that's to make the end rail and drill it to accommodate the vise screw. To make sure the hole is located correctly, damp the block in position on the bench and mark the hole location for the vise screw, as shown in Figure ft. With the hole marked, drill the hole for the vise screw through tile end rail and attach the end rail and mounting block to the bench top. Traveler. The other part of the tall vise to make is the traveler as in Figure 9. Besides drilling a dog hole in the trawler, you ! U also need to cut a groove on each side. The grooves ride Liver some guide strips as you operate the tail y ise. I cut the guide strips to fit the grooves in the traveler block. You're looking for a smooth, d id ing fi t that's not ton loose, Before screwing the guide strips in place, you need to make the front rail of the bench. For now simply clamp it in place to position the guide rails. You can position the guides using the traveler block before fastening them with screws. You want the traveler block to be flush with the surface of the workbench at each end of the guide strips, as in the Section View of Figure 9, Final Assembly. Mow is the time to check the fit of the trav- eler block. Check to see that it slides freeh along the guide rails and sand the sides if the fit is too tight. Ones? you're happv with tile fit,, attach the vise screw (right mar- gin), All that's left to do is glue the front rail and left end rail in place. Face Vise. A face vise is a great addition to a ny workbench . The one T used simply bolts to the bottom of the bench. The only trick is to make sure it's positioned so that there's no interference when the work- bench is folded down. A spacer aligns the top of the jaws flush with die top surface of the bench. Wedges, The last thing to do is attach sup- port w^edges- to the underside of the flip-up tom right margin). With the bench extended, slip die wedges between the extension and the slide-out supports. When the bench is level, fasten the wedges with screws to complete the workbench. FIRST: — ATTACH viee SCREW SWIVEL HEAP TO traveler BLOC* SUPPORT ,, SPACER WEPGE * [S^x&ri ■ h natd.) (SEE MARGIN) FOR FACE VrSE ^ position e o i^ ft ..rarrtfll FROM END OF rgfg WORKBENCH TRIM WEDGE HUSH SUPPORT WEQGE FASTEN SUPPORT WEDGES fa PLACE WITH GLUE AND M&KVFh WOOPSCREWS NOTE: PACK RAIL 0F WORKBENCH i& MORTISED FOR HINGES (Refer, to bhof SHORT CUTS ON FAGE 14f NOTEi CUT WEDGE STRIPS TO SHAPE" ON BAND SAW AND SAND SMOOTH - JAW FACES ARE FLUSH WITH BENCHTOP 9IPE VIEW SECTION VIEW .:E\VY, ii:— ■ .. y'-.-i . W J www, ShopN ntes. com 25 additional Storage No matter how much storage you have,, it doesn't take long to fill up the space. Here are some stor- age options you can add to your workspace. They range from a tall storage cabinet to small, portable pegboard shelves. Fall Cabinet and Cap. To fin- ish out the workshop r I added the tall cabinet and built a cap for it as shown in Figure 11 . A few screws secure the cap in place. Valance and Fegbnard, With the tali cabinet in place, you can add the final valance piece. Youll build it juf>t like the one before, using the dimensions shown in Figure I], And you can complete the peg- board storage by bu i tding tw o mo re panels, as shown below. These will dll in the space between die panel you built earlier and the tall cabinet at the end of the workbench. Permanent Shelving, At this ptmit, all that's left to do is add same additional shelving. I started with the lived shelves shown in photo above. Thevre a quick asv solution far more storage gurus 11 and 12 show r you put them together. Once the edging is attached, use woodscrews to fasten the shelves at each end to the adjacent cabinets. (For added strength and to help prevent sagging, it wouldn't hurt to put a few screws through the back edging into the wall studs. ! Pegboard Shelving. If you look at the inset photo on the right, you'll see a handy storage option for the pegboard panels. The great thing is, they're adjustable. Figure 13 below shows you everything you need to know to build these functional! she See Shop Short Cuts on pac for some tips on building shelves and adding the i .-h - The l^hooks are used to hang shelves on the pegboard Now, the bin part of orga- ing your shop begins. Once th-- done, you can put the one- workshop to good use on all future woodworking projects ^ FIGURE NOTE; BUI LI? VA1.ANCE ANP PFO&OARD PANELS A3 IN FIGURE 3 ON F.VjE si fSCE MATERIALS U&T PQR PART QUANTmeS AND DIMENSIONS d§> FLANGE {3^ * £4} VAtANCE NOTE: MAKE TWO fe.rm A N tNT- END EDGING (2SK PEG BOARD PANELS^ FROhir/BACK EDGING SHELF (7 pi Ml -w) i 2'fi t FROKT VIEW NOTE: All STOCK, (5 Vr THICK . SIDE VIEW gg*g>- ~ T ' 1 i r A SCREWS INTO CABINET *& n 114" Fh WOOEJSCKEW EDGING WWC&ctew fRQm EDGING Shop Notes No. 92 Hoor Plan Options fur uf -WORKBENCH SHOWN + Simple Bench, Short on watt space? You can buifd a smaller version of the one- wall workshop, complete with a flip- up workbench. Corner Wrap ► if your shop has the space , you can add corner p ieces to wrap around and add more workspace , + Storage Ortiy. Front-loading “cubbies" add plenty of storage in a small area CORNER CAP MDF) WALL OLE ATS ' SIDE SUPPORTS Pft x P 4 ) NOTE: CORNER CAP AMP BENCH TOP RESTS 0N CLE ATS CORNER KWCfTOF 5SDE CLEATS ^ K lit) FRONT ‘ EDGibiG MITERED TO FIT BETWEEN CABINETS FLOOR Materials & Hardware STORAGE CASFNET WORK AREA A Top 16 * 71 ■ % MDF 8 Bottom 15% * 71 - % MW C Left/Rcght End (2) 13% ft 16 - % MW D Dividers f2) ll%x 15% - % MOF E Back 11% Jt 71 % MDF F Bottom filters (2) % * 1% - TO 1 /) G Face Frame Rails (2 1 % x 1% - 69 H F»c« Frame Outer Stiles (2) % 1 1% - 11% 1 Fats Frame Center Stiles (2}% x 1% * 10% 1 Tbps (2) 18% x 72 - V* MDF K Front Edging % * 1% - 72% L End Edging %xl%-19% M Bottom Panel 12 * 72 -V* MW H Panel Blocking [2) 1x1%- 72 0 Panel Edging 1% * 72 - % MDF P Top Panel IS x 72 - % MDF Q Front Light Rail 2%x 72 - % MDF R Feghoard IS x 72 - % Pgbd, S Horizontal Spacer (2) % x !%■ 72 T Vertical Spacers (2) % xl%-15% WORKBENCH AREA u Top 16 x 59 ■ % MDr V Bottom 15% x 59 - % MDF w Left/Right End (2) 13%x 16 • % MDF X Back 13% x 59-% MDF V Partitions (4) 11% x 15% - % MDF z Top Supports (2) 11% x 18% - % MDF AA Face Frame Rail % X 1% - 57 BB face Frames Stiles (2) % x 1% - 13% Ct Tops (2 ) 18% x 60 - % MDF DD Front Edging % x 2% ■ 60 E£ Filler Strip % x 2% - 60 FF Topj (2} 18% x 24 - % MDF GG front Edging % x 1% - 24 HH Top (3) 7% x 54 % - V, MDF II Rails (3} % x 2%- 54% 11 Left/Right End (2) % x 2%- 12% KK Vise Dog Run (3) % x 2%- 42 LL Vise Guide Strips (2) % x % ' 10 MM Vise Traveler Block (3) %*2%-3 INN Vise Mounting Block (3) % x 2% -2% QO Support Wedges [2) ADDITIONAL STORAGE % x % - 9 PP Top 22% x 24 - % MDF QQ Sides |2) 2% X 24 - % MDF m Front Face 2% * 23% - % MDF ss Flange (2) 3%x 24 % MDF TT Shelves (2) 7 x 59 - % MOF LHJ Front/Back Edging (4) % x 1%- 60 W End Edging {4) % x 1%- 8 WW Bottom Panel 12 x 84 - % MDF XX Panel Blocking (2) 1*T% - 84 YY Panel Edging 1% x 84 - % MDF n Top Panel 18 x 84 - % MDF AAA Front Light Rail 2%*84 - %MDF BBB Pegboard 18 x 24 - % Pgbd. CCC Top/ Bottom Spacer f2) % * 1%- 24 DDD End Spacers (3) %* 1%* 15% E£E Regboard 18x60-% Pgbd. FFF Top /Bottom Spacer (2) % x T%- 60 GGG End Spacers (2) % x 1%- 15% HHH Shelve* (2) % * 5% - 22 IN Back Panels (2) % x 6 - 32 JJJ Ends (4) % x 6 - 6 ■ (76] *8 x T}-f Fh Woodscrews * (42) #8 jf l&V Fh Woodsoew* * (4| #a x r Fh Woodscrews * (2) #8 a V Fh Wood screws * (38) x %* Fh Wooditrews * 16) #8 x Ya" Panhead Screws * (3} 3? Utility Hinges * 0) Face Vise * (1) Vise Screw * ( 1 ) 48 " Fluorescent Light Futures - [7) Under- cabinet Halogen Light Flsrtures ■ (18) Wire Pulls ■ (2) V Lrhooks MANUFACTURED CABINETS ■ (3) WD * 24 W x 17VH Walt Cabins -H) irp X 24 W X WVn H Wall Cabinet* * fl) 16'D x 34" W x 31"H Wall Cabinet i fl) 24"D & 24 h VV x ?2 P H Storage Cabinet www.ShopNotes.com 27 I Technique building cases with Rabbet Joinery This basic method offers quick, easy, and solid construction. I : When it comes to building a sturdy case for a shop project out of plywood or MDF, basic rabbet joinery is often the best choice for the job. It's a fast way to assemble a cabinet without sacrificing strength. Why Rabbets? Kabbet joinery has some very basic CASE BACK WIDTH OP RABBET watches thickness ^ 0E MATERIAL BACK NOTE! ^ CUT CASE - SACK TO FIT TAKE JOINERY INTO ACCOUNT WH EN “w cum NO TOF y and sorrow TO LENGTH CA&E SIPE&, TOT AND BOTTOM CUT TO SAME W PTH LENGTH OF CASE BrDEB MATCHES HEIOHTOF CASE 1 CASE ASSEMBLES WITH scmws AN P GLUE NOTE; ALL RABBETS ARE SAME PEPTH DEEF RABBET ALLOWS SCREWS 10 BE INSTALLED ON TOF AND SO1T0W OF CASE structural benefits. First, the shoulder and the bottom of the rabbet automatically capture and align the mat- ing pieces during assembly. The result is that the parts go together easier. Second, the two-sided" joint cre- ates racking resistance and a much more solid case. :ae e TOP CASE BOTTOM CASE BlDE Finally, you have an abundance of good gluing surface — a nd more is definitely better. Very Basic. Building a case with rabbet joiner, couldn't be much easier. The drawing at the lower left illustrates how the pieces all go together. To create a four-sided "b ox/' all you need to do is cut rabbets amiss the ends of two opposite case pieces — most often the sides. The depth of tire rabbet can vary from one quarter to three quarters of the thickness of the case piece. The width of the rabbet matches the \ hickness of the ma ting case piece so th at the assembled joint forms a "flush" comer. A second scries of rabbets along the back edges of the case pieces holds a back panel. This further stiffens the case and also allows you to easily attach, if to a wall. Fasteners (screws work the best) and glue hold all the pieces together. Considerations. Before gutting to work, there are several things you'd want to think about. The first is how to size your case pieces. St the rabbets are cut on the t?ase sides, the length of these pieces should match the height of the case (drawing at left). Then, to end up A Two Good Options, The left photo shows the sim- plest assembly option, a shallow rabbet with screws installed through the case sides. A deeper rabbet allows you to H hide ' the screws (right photo) k ShopNotes No, 92 -^MOLD'DOWN 1 PUSHES WOtWtKCE FLAt AtfAm&i SAWTAElE .-- WDEJCnFCE AUXILIARY RIF FENCE N(JT£i CLa^p HOLD DOWN OYWi t&B Of Ell ACE FROM ELCH5ES BAC* EMUARE& CASE PURINE* -, ASSEMBLY TOP i*' EM7TTO W CAULS LJSFP ’ TD FULL JOIN PS . TIGHT a cm that's the correct width, need to lake into account the — h «f the rabbets when acting. ■ e top and bottom to length. Assembly Options. This leads the next point. The photos at ihe Tom l if the opposite page show fabbet/assemhlv options. The ■- Tr photo illustrates the more basic nimbly — a shallow rabbet with -."news through the case sides puli- ng the pieces tightly together. As you can stv in the righfc photo, sleeper rabbet allows you to hide screws on the top rind bottom r the case tv hen desired. Hem, stalling the screws tnkes a little ore can-, but you II end up with cleaner" looking case. Finally there's one point to men- hon uboul the rabbets for the bark panel. Their widths simply match the thickness of the back panel, while their depths match the rab- bets in the case sides. This creates a "seamless” assembly. A Setup How-To, Oner you've done all the "advance planning" | and cut your pieces to size, you can sel up to cut the joinery. The draw - ing above shows the table saw setup l rely on to handle this job. It starts with a stack dado blade installed in the table saw. The blade should be wider than the width of die rabbets so you can make the ruts with a single pass. A zero-clearance insert surrounding the blade will help 1 WIDE DADO BLADE BUEIFP AUX FENCE Rabbet Joinery: Assembly Once the joinery is cut, the final task is to put all the pieces together into a solid case. Tin- process is shown m the drawings at right Glue alone would work, hut 1 ■ i ke to reinforce the assembly with screws. So the first sir.: 1 is tn dn assemble the case and drill pilot holes for the screws. As you can see, clamps span- ning all four sides are used to pull the joints tight:, t aids placed on the cast: 1 top and bottom ensure that ihe WWW Sh opN ote s. com clamps pull these pieces snug up to the rabbet shoulders. The cauls are placed back from the edges hi allow access to drill countersunk pilot holes, as shown in the detail. A screw installed every h" to 8" should do the job. Now you can take the damps off, add glue to the pints, reapply the clamps, and install the screws. And finally, the case can be flipped over- to allow the hark to be glued and screwed in place. HOLD-DOWN CUT ftAB&Ei- WITH SJN^LE PA&5 prevent chipping along the shoul- ders ot the rabbets As you see. ihe edge nf the blade buried in an auxiliary rip fence. This is how you establish the width of the rabbets and guide the cuts. Finally a hold-down clamped to the rip fence wiH unsure that the depth of the cu is is consistent. Now, the Rabbets. With the table saw ready to go, the rabbefh in the case sides come first. For accurate results, you'll need to carefully adjust the blade height and the position of the rip fenre. A separate test piece or one of your workpieces will help you with this. Start bv adjusting the height of the dado blade until it cuts a rabbet of the correct depth, linen you ran tweak the position of the rip fence to get the right width. New. vou can simply make the cuts one after the other. Your goal in a consistent depth and width. The hold-down will help keep I he workpiece flat against the table Lor a full-depth cut. So your main focus is simplv keeping the work- piece snug against the fence. Fhc rabbets for the back panel follow. You may have to adjust the np fence to match the width of the rabbet to the thickness of the back, but otherwise Lhe setup i s the same. All ft >ur pieces need a rabbet along the back edge. rhiit's it ior Hie joinery, _\ : s i w al ] th at s tands be twee i ■ you and a sturdy case is a tight, square assembly You'll find a few pointers that will help you with this in the box below, (S. Ds jul tot^rrepesuNK CAUI.5 SPACE o afh.y CLAMPS TO All SIDES' or CASE I I Inbuilt a let of storage cabinets for my took and hardware, so I always know right where to find them. Uiifortunately, that wasn't the case for my cleaning supplies. To solve this problem I built the heavy-duty cleanup center you see above, What's nice is the center has a number of handy features, First of all, it hangs on the wall, freeing up valuable benchtop and drawer space. Second., there's enough room to fit a variety of cans,, spray bottles. and other cleaning supplies. And., third, there are a couple of custom- ized compartments for a boK of shop rags and a foil of paper towels. But the main reason 1 made this cabinet is to hold a roll of kraft paper, I like to use kraft paper to protect the top of my workbench from glue squeezeout and finish spills. When the paper gets dirty, I simply replace it- Since it's more economical to buy the kraft paper in large mils. 1 added a hardwood roller and a shop- made paper cutter to the cab- inet. Now, it's a snap to tear off any size sheet of paper I need. Since the idea for the cleanup center is to provide a central loca- tion for shop cleaning supplies, 1 didn't need art elaborate cabinet. So, what you see here is a simple, no-nonsense plywood case with strong and sturdy dado joinery- W And it all come* out of a single sheet of plywood. 30 ShopNotes No. 92 exploded View Details : - 1 CAU DIMENSIONS: '2 /Dx 52 "Wx W"H CASE *■& DESIGNED TO FIT M-’-WIDE ROLL C)F KRAFT PAPER PAFE R TOIL BITS IN NOT EH FOR EASY INSTALLATION PEGS ANGLE UPWARD TO HOLD ITEMS SECURE L v ROUND CORNERS TO REMOVE SHARP E DOES LARGE DOWEL SERVES AS SUPPORT FOR PAPER ROLLER CUTTER IS MADE FROM ANGLE IRON LEFT COMPARTMENT SIZED TO HOLD & 0 * OF SHOP TOWELS CUTOUT PROVIDES access TO TOWELS MIDDLE COMPARTMENT HOLDS ROLL OF PAFEE TOWELS N0H: TOP SHELF COMPARTMENTS ALLOW SETTER ORGANIZATION STORAGE SINS HOLD CLEANING SUPPLIES DADOES PR 0 WPE FOR SlMFLE, STURDY CONSTRUCTION LOWER SHELF ALLOWS STORAGE OF MISCELLANEOUS CLEANING SurrLJES ARMS PIVOT to KFEP cum AGAINST PAPER I Materials & Hardw are CASE A Badcfl) B Sides [ 1 ) C Peg Rail fl \ D FV>gi(5) E Shelves (2) F Left Face (1J C Right Face (1) H Side Dividers {2} 1 Middle Divider (1) n * as - Vi p(y. Wx 15 -%P\y. 213 xJ O^-^PIy. 'AxA '4 ll^*Jl-1$Ply. 4 jin !0l4 * 'A Pty. 41* x 81* Ply 4X*10H-^Fly. AH * 12 - H Ply J Paper Towel ftar (!) 1 x 12H K Cutter Arms (2] lij * Sh - Ply. L Roller Bar (1) l * 3i>$ r (i) 1 H * ii^’ - 30 H" Angle iron * (27) #8 x 1)3" Fh Woodscnews * (2) *8 x 1" Fh Woodsrrews ■ (2) #10 * 2" fh Woodier ews * [1) Roll of 30"* wide Kraft P&per ShopHotas £ 0 ONLINE " G °y EXTRAS To download a free cutting diagram for the Cleanup Center, go to: Sh opNotes.com ww w. ShopNotcs, com 31 R6URE building the Center NOTE; MAKE (SEE fWE 2) UPPER SHELF ame Forstner bit ifir.t angle. Glue will > tirmfv in the holes. Pattern [5% n k BiANK) NOTE; saw 1]i H . WIPE FLAT-- FOR CUTTER BAR arms wiD prevent the cutter from twisting as you rip the paper off the roil. When the glue dries, you can use the pattern drawing above and your hand saw 1 to cut the arms to their final size and shape. The next step is to i nstall the a rms (Figure 3a). But don't tighten them down completely — they need to swing easily when you replace the mil and as the roll gels smaller Angle Iran. With the arms in place, you can cut the angle iron to length that serves as the paper cutter. After Filing the ends smooth, go ahead and attach it to the arms. Wall Installation. With the cutter installed, the cleanup station is ready to be hung on your shop wall Remember, the cabinet itself is heavy and will be that much heavier once vou slip the roll of kraft paper on it, so make sure you hang It securely. Now-, all that's left to do Is chase down the cleaning supplies in your shop and corral them into your new cleanup station. (1 mm mr > to make and add zzz&l It consists of an T-r -Stached to pivoting Pfe '-eeps it sitting firmly CiTf v tor easier ripping. m* iadi pivoting arm. is 4™ tw o pieces of % if ply- tsmsd together, as Figure ^ i double - 1 luckness of the M Rotter Setup, The paper rotter siidm into wide dadoes and rests in notches ■ The angle iron provides a straight edge tor ripping off sheets of paper. m Easy Rip r The pivoting arms of the paper cutter allow the angle to rest against the paper roil. This makes it easy to tear oft just the amount of paper you need « - ^hop Notcs.com r_ ■I kj i . >A ' mm r \ :rM 33 i HANDS-ON Technique r working with Dimensional Lumber With a little planning and work, you can build great-looking, low-cost projects. already familiar with some ol the downsides of dimensional lumber. Jfc comes from a variety of spades of pine, fir or spruce and is often in pretty rough condition. In fact, warped, checked, twisted r and very wet lumber ss common. So, it takes a bit more work to get the most out of this material. But with a little extra planning and patience you can get great results. Selection Building a successful profecl with ordinary lumber begin?, by choosing the right boards. When I shop for dimen- sional lumber, the first thing I look at is the moisture content And j most of the time l don't need § a moisture meter to see how wet some of this lumber can be. These boards are often wet to the touch. That doesn’t mean you should avoid these boards. xAii you need to do when you get them back to your shop is stack them with stickers (small pieces ot wood) in It would be great to have a shop full of hardwood storage cabinets and bench tops. But let's face it. using expensive hardwood lumber for every shop project Is a luxury few of us can afford. Fortunately you don't have to break the hank to build durable and attractive cabi- nets, worksurfaces, or benches. The solutim is as near as the local kumheryaid — low-cost, "two-by" lumber You're probably T Lay Out the Parts . To make She best use of materiel, mark and cut out She pieces before jointing and planing. a place with good air emulation, as shown in the photo above, and j allow them to dry Spending on W conditions, they'll be dry enough to work in a few W'eeks. 34 ShopNotes No. 92 ■ _ ,, rv*s. J rai if yon chances a re - pick through it flo find the best I try to avoid mx± You can u sn- sli^hdy bowed but correcting too much effort -t likely have a t. chcose fronv leave t at the store, ve sorted out the I start to look at usost shop projects, few - jntem, hut if I'm t «ae .umber for cabinet t any other applies a visual appeal, I I find the straight or ■*— ^ajrs 111 need. 4 or i die project, you k up wi th a strategy re stock and getting a - look The box below iea of how to do this- to being nicer looking, ake tor more stable, panels as well Minting, and Planing. > getting the boards . squared-up, and planed Overall, the process ^milar to working with hardw ond stock, J e to begin by inspecting .3 gain) for warping, ^rd checking. At this point, you can lay them on the bench and start roughing out the parts you need in chalk directly on the board*, as in the lower left photo on the opposite page. This is a good time to identify the knots or other defects you'll have to work around, 1 reserve the best boards for the longer pieces of my project. Tliis way you can compen- sate tor bowed or warned boards by cutting diem into shorter pieces and eliminating any problems . Once the parts an? cut to rough size, you can move on to the jointer to square up one edge and one face. The difference here is that you'll also need to get rid of the rounded edges typical on dimensional lumber. Then, you can plane the opposite face and trim the opposite edge at the table saw. As you can sec in the photo at right you'll lose a little more thickness and width in this process than you would with haidwood lumber, so make sure to take that into account in your plan. Joinery. Now that you have your boards flat and square, it's tune to cut out the parts for your project and work on the joinery. The thing to remember here Is that you don’t want to get too fancy with "Twiv by" stock Softwood won't hold an edge the way oak or maple will. But that doesn't mean vou can't make a mortise and tenon joint or rout a simple edge profile. Sanding. You 're probably already familiar with the tendency of "two- by " lumber to splinter at the cu t J i ne 5o after 1 cut out the parts, 1 plan on doing a fair amount of sanding. But sanding softwood goes pretty fast. You can move through the grits and get a smooth surface quickly using either a random-orbit sander or a sanding block. The Twt>hy" Solution. By now you can set that dimensional lumber can be used as a great, low- cost mated a l for your shop projects. It's durable, easy to work with, and if you're willing to lake a little extra hmc and use your creative talents, it can be as attractive as hardwood. And since it's available fust about anywhere, there's no gOL>d reason to put off building any of those shop projects any longer. & ^ eate Your Own: Straight-Grain Panels : best ways to make "two-by" stock more - - -* to make a series of cuts at the table saw lie straighter grain, as in the photo at right, -"art by marking the btiards in a way that will straight-grained face, Then, it’s just a matter “Hpmg the stock an the table saw, rotating it to the best edge, and gluing it back together with “ i rvT zi cht grain surfaces facing up. - a great way to make table tops that are hath ■- -"r If and better-kjokang. And using this method van to determine the thickness of the top just r" i-r -is:jng the width of the cuts. 5n you can even * - a .op thick enough for a workbench. Quartersawn Look . By cutting the boards below to reveal straight-grained edges, you can reassemble them into attractive, stable panels. w ~ >r.opNotes._com Stop dust in its tracks. All it takes is a weekend and an ordinary shop vacuum crevice tool. The blade cover and splitter a Humbly that comes with most table saws is a hassle. So I'll admit that it's not on my saw as often as it should be. Besides being unsafe, this setup also throws a lot of dust back in my face as I m cutting. I've been thinking about a .solu- tion for this problem for some time. The answer came when Robert Knox of Apopka, FL sent me some photos of a blade cover he made for his s^w. So I borrowed some of his ideas to make the blade cover you see in the photo above. Dust Collection. There are two things that set this blade cover apart. First, it has a simple, built- in dust collection system. This makes for dust-free cutting and goes a long way toward keeping your shop cleaner. Over-Arm Design. The other interesting feature of this cover is that if s suspended over the blade {not attached behind it). Its con nected to the right side of the saw table. This makes it easier to move the cover out of the way to change blades or for cutting tall stock, k Rigid Support A beefy hardwood % mast and steel conduit anchor the dust cover to the saw table., 36 ShopNotes No. 92 51 PE (e x 12% - Ife POLY.) HOtEi SEE Drawing BEL-CW FOR SHAFING FGOHl ' SACK, AhiP 5PES where it can be removed by a dust collector or shop vacuum. You can use the layout guide below to shape these pieces. 1 sized the thickness of these pieces based on the thickness of the crevice tool. Just be aware that most crevice tools taper slightly. You're aiming for a snug fit between the sides. Drilling Holes. After spraying on a few coats of paint, you're ready for some assembly. The sides are dimply screwed to the front and back spacers. in addition to drilling holes for the screws, you ran see in the box below that there are a few other holes to drill as well. These will be used later to attach the hood RAMP (1% * 3 - V f ALUM.) NOTE: ROUND OFF CORNERS OF RAM** NOTE: ALL KREW3 ARE (JO 4 Fh W0ODS£R£W5 to the mounting assembly. There's also a hole for a pin that will be used to retract the hood when changing blades or cutting thick stock (photo at right). Aluminum Ramp, The last thing to take care of on the hood is to add an aluminum ramp to the front. This ramp serves a couple of purposes. First, it provides a smooth, durable surface to allow the workpiece to slide under the hood And second, it acts as a con- venient handle to Lift the hood out of the way. With the hood com- plete, you can get started on the mounting assembly. A Ramp. A piece of aluminum provides a smooth , durable surface to guide the hood o\mr a workpiece . t Seaote getting - m important TTWitkm. The to capture +"5suai reminder away Ifnm the t prevent kick- to make sure splitter on to the cover. HOOD of two main hood and the >ly. The hood cent the blade to f be picked up by a crevice tool grand installation system depends 1 I hold off on talk- s' rat und] later and start the hood. ponents. The hood is " a few pa rts. A pair te sides surround And a couple of pieces act as spacers, as you an Figure L . ‘ 'pacer Is shaped tn re curve of the blade and z..sX and chips toward :* the hood. At the back ---Tibly you can see this . sed above the table to far a splitter. m.mt spacer directs dust " 'he vacuum crevice tool a de Hood Layout 3 SACK * 4*4 - ~ir use the drawing at right :pte of steps in making the »>- F J^t H you can lay out the pn ?- fc ■" t front and back hardwood “ - r= on a single, large blank, _--3 cutting the back spacer to map* ■ ou 'll need to custom fit the spacer to your crevice tool. - :has H tape (he pieces to one S i h >: coNpuir STAR KNOB • i u -2P n Z!% J HEX' BOLT FENCER WASHER ■ d " -20 tC 2V HEX BftLT ALUMINUM PAE& 0 * e - ft) ENP VflEW NOTE; assemble Winn vs“ sap FIAT WASHED V - 20 - NYLON LOCK NUT -20 x m HEX BOLT CLAMPlNO q BLOCK (SHE MARGIN) TOP VIEW 10 H 2 V Fh, WOOPSCE.EWS N0T1: attach ff SPP 1 NO lO LON 0 I &01T9, SECURE WITH LOCK NUTS r {S EE FHDTtt ABOVE ) EXTENSION SFKSNG (-0555“ 'tVTRT OSA. i the aluminum bar'. In attach the hood \cm :. t trt' r h,~t two of the bolts are linger than the others. The reason is that they provide anchoring points for a spring that will provide a little assist to help the ru. id ..rt . *ver a workpiece. making the Mounting Assembly NOTE: emer with i=V - 3" - io- blank y^‘DiK, HOLE. V 0EEP{V£Jf6iDE) ft V-PlA. HOLE V-PIA HOLT CUT BLOCK DRILL INHALF IWO HOLES FOR# ID SCREWS ON f^OTTOM SI PE fSEF FIO. 2) 1 he hood you just completed is sus- pended above the saw blade bv the mounting assembly. However, tile KcmhJ also needs Lo bu able to ride over the top of a workpiece and then drop back down smoothly Flexible Connection. Tor this to happen, 1 attached tiro hood to an arm made from conduit with a ''suspension'' system. You can see how this as accomplished in the photo at right. A set of four alu- minum bars connect the hood to a pair of mounting blocks that damp onto the conduit arm Mounting Blocks, The hard w*Md mounting blocks need to grip tJue conduit arm securely. To make this work , start by cutting an m L i - zv blank t«. - the si a? shown in the margin drawing at left. ihen vnu'l I need to drill a tew holes. The first hole is sized to allow the conduit to pass through easily (mine was i 5 :' dia.) The next hole tn driJ] will he used for a carriage bolt, washer, and knob to hold the block in place. A third hole is a stor- age spot fur a pin that can be used to hold the hood above the saw table, as in the photos below and Figure 2. A final set of holes is used to attach the aluminum bars. The next step is to assemble the block on the conduit. For this 1 cut the Hock in two. A pair of screws runs through the front of the two blocks to hold them together with a V gap- Then when the knob is tightened, the blocks flex and squeeze the conduit (End View). Aluminum Bars. When you've completed the block, vou can use m ShopNotes No, 92 HAT WA9HEK KNOB, WASHER, AND BOLT SECURE A EM Tf MAST eawurr |SEE Fie, Z) ■MIT e « *-js E solid, cast iron ^■P * table, you «rur- shown in Figure Bfcir -!- r? Cuts on page 15 , Bh* w alternate mounting ' with front and ^fccrn- : np rmce rails. Kb ft: In a nutshell, ■ b TT^ aim is attached, ^r?n is damped in a bwir mast with a carnage * rid knob. The mast -p lit over the edge of M sttt Its designed to posi- ■* r- iir of the arm about 5“ ■Rft asv. table, ?tt“_ *n4 and holt to attach . w> you to quickly slide rover outof the way. This ! nncnr n handy for cutting tall Ireces — like raised pends, tad - ood Mask After making vnu're ready to secure aw. And it's fastened in -> for rigidity 1 used a car- f 't ® attach the mast to the NOTES ATTACH END OF BRACE TO SAW , ^ HE* NIJT AMP — WASHER ®V - 1**4^ CARRIAGE BOLT MAST f3 x B - 24] v-!& x r STOPPED KNOB ; 0KACE {1 x 3?4 - fa ALUM.) th Reaped insert edge of the saw table. To locate the front-foback position of the mast, set it so that the hood is centered over the saw blade. (You may have to drill a hole in the saw table,) Bracket The second place the mast is secured to the saw m at the bottom. Here, 3 made a bracket from a length of aluminum bar stock, as you can see in Figure 3, This braces the ma.st to keep the arm from sagging (Figure 3b). Once again, depending on what kind of saw you have, you may need to customize the connection of the bracket to the saw. That w raps up the construction of the blade cover. And now you can attach a vacuum hose Ur the crevice too! in the hood and start using it But there are a couple of accessories in the box below 1 that may make using the blade cover easier And I'm sure you'll find tha I cutting with your table saw will be virtually dust-free. A de Cover Accessories HOSE FROM BLADE COVER Here are a couple of ways to extend the versatility of the blade cover Push Block. The 12"- long push block that rides the rip fence in the photo allows you to guide a workpiece past the blade for making narrow parts. The push block is sized to fit easily over the rip fence without any play. And a tall handle makes it easy to control. Blast Gate, You can also connect the blade cover to a dust collector through a blast gate attached to the edge of your saw table. The d ra w ing at right gives you the details. ZV-DfA. TO 4"-PIA_ REDUCER AjUJML angle (I fc a IV4 ■ &) CUT PROFILE TO MATCH BLA0T GATE METAL BLAST GATE w- a* it r MACHINE SCREW mo FLAT WASHER HOSE CLAMF 4" PUBT COLLECTOR HOSE Block. The ’4" plywood les on this push block make *sy to rip thin strips with the do cover in place. * shopNotes.com 39 A Finished Look , Modular cabins :a- ce configured for just aOo*jt any took or layout. Designs. \nother advantage you'-l rghl a wav is the design ass i starve available through many of the internet or catalog cabinet suppliers This service can save hours- of extern deftgn and plan- Get the shop of your dreams without the hassle of building from scratch by using modular, manufactured cabinets. ‘Hie one thing 1 never have enough of its my shop is time I've always got a long list of projects waiting to be built. So when it came time fa get things organized and build storage cabinets far the shop, I decided to save some time and order a few cabinets from a manufacturer. It's a tough choice for a wood- worker to make, but when you look at the cost of building shop cabinets (including labor in the equation), you'll see there are good reasons to consider this option. For example, the cabinets far the one-waJ! workshop on page 16 cost about $730 (shipping included). To build the cabinets from scratch would have cost around $350, but would have added a couple weeks of shop time to the project. Having the part, cut and prenir tiled for hardware allowed me to put them together in no time. What's In The Box Flat Pack. A successful installation begin* by W inspecting the contents of the packages containing the materials and hardware, ring time AU ™ wed to do is identih the space you have avail- able and the n^inranente \ ou have for the cabinets and a designer will flu pul tether a for you. The checki^t on the opposite page is a starting point to help you figure out whs: questions to ask when shnpptT^ far a supplier, Customize >mir Shop. Saving time mearts voj can spice up the cabinet^ itb. a few customised details .. build v ourself. In the one-** _l_ :rk>b.op / l decided to add a flip- up workbench with a vise and pegboard panels between the cabinets. 1 abo added the open 'cubbtes if hove the lower cabi- nets v held si nne of my frequently Hardware. ► Kits include hinges , handles , and the screws required for assembly. ShopNotes No. 92 Cabinet Checklist requirements * Do you have speaai weight requirements? * Do you need melamine surfaces ? DESIGN ASSISTANCE * Does the manufacturer provide custom-built cabinets or modular units to fit your space? CONSTRUCTION QUALITY " What are the cabinets made of? p lywood, sneet metal, parttdeboard, mdf? * What kind of hardware is used? Will you need to upgrade handies . fetches, hinges? SKIPPING & DELIVERY * Will the products be delivered to your door or to a local vendor or warehouse? m What 5 the manufacturer's policy on replacing components damaged :n shipping? INSTALL All ON * Does the company offer installation? CUSTOM MODIFICATIONS * How easily can you add your own features or upgrades to the cabinets? The Results. Even after assem- bling and painting the cabinets, ! saved a lot of time over building them from scratch. And that meant [ had the time 1 needed to get a few of my i rther projects done. knife, as shown in the left photo below. Try to push the compound into the edges as much as possible and then even Stout with the knife. Primer Coat. The next step is to put on j coat of primer You ran use either a brush or roller for both priming and painting. T like to use gray p r 1 1 tier because one coa * covers the brown particleboard very wclL It also makes it a Lot easier to see any spots you've missed. Apply the Final Color. When you select the 1 pa mf for the finish coat, one thing to keep in mind i.s the type of pamt you'll need. Remember that there will be a lot of sawdust flying and you'll want to be able to dean the cabinets easily. For that reason, I recommend a good-quality; inferior paint, it's easy to wipe clean with a damp doth arid rugged enough to stand ' up well in the shop. ■ ird other items 1 x- vssihle And " ■: vou can see 1 all cabinets. This - up off the floor in the shop. It also ninety arrive, vouTt assembling and right awj y. But there tn do first. It's a good idea to _ onton of die eab- ird hardware to make — jig is included. If any c _ k _7 easier kTALLATION • ITT 1 inting Touch: h - - unc hired cabinets I - made of particleboard, r enty strong, but they can - ■ ge to paint. ie End Grain. The first step ^ dung process is tilling -r ing the edges. For this. : _l- wall join £ compound, -.7 ‘-tart by apphing the . . with a plastic putty of the pieces a re missing or dam- aged, now is thi 1 time Jo notify the supplier and order a replacement. Read the Instructions. Once you' re sure you have everything, the next step is to familiarise. 1 your- self with the assembly instructions, bach manufacturer has different procedures for assembling and hanging the cabinets. So it's best to thoroughly understand the whole process before you begin. You may also want to take die Hme to paint the pieces before you begin the installation The box below lias some helpful tips for painting particleboard cabinet*. Hanging Base Cabinets, To avoid moisture damage and to make Cleanup easier, it helps to keep base cabinets off the floor , ; = ShnpNote&oom 41 "Shop ust-have Table Sa Accessorie These simple shop-made jigs and accessories make work at the table saw safer and easier. 1 .v-a Like most woodworkers, 1 use power tools every day while working on projects. Bat the power tool that gets fl-ve most use in my shop is definitely the table sew, Whether it's breaking down stock or making an accu- rate cut for joinery, the table saw is my tool of choice. One of the thi ngs tha t makes ■ - - - saw so useful Am is the handy jigs and '■ - ^ years. These accessories allo-s do t.\ wosk at the table saw' faster, with grenter accura sty, and less effort. But more importantly the v make the work a iol safer. Push Block At fust glance, the push block in the photo above appears to be rather simple. But don't let its appearance fool you. The right push block not only makes the work safer, it also improves the quality of your work. One thing I like about the push block shown in the photo above is the "high-mounted" comfortable position of the handle. It keeps your CLEAT pte K 33* - w. HAMj NOTE; HANDLfe CUT 42 PROM &+ BIANK EASE SENSES QF HANPS = SIDE VIEW ANOLEP * EV*" Fh WODDSCKEW F*UU& HANDLE TNSHT TO BODY AN P CLEAT ■ i CLEAT AND BODY fingere wd above and away from the spinning =aw blade Best of all you don't sacrifice any control The forward sweep of due handle lets ynu place constant downward pressure un the work- piece for a steady controlled feed into the saw blade, As you might expect the body and cleat are going to get chewed up after y ou pass them over the blade a number nf times, So this push block is designed with replaceable parts. All you need to do is flip the body or cleat over when you need a new edge or simply replace them with , new ones. Then you can quickly % attach the handle with a screw and get hack to work again. ShopNotes No, 92 FENCE IN ee a. Dei? INSERT - pi" - 20) NOTE; RA5PETS ARE WIDE, VPKI' V - HO Eh MACHINE SCREW A WASHER zz ary Miter Fence the miter gauge table saws surface to 'rtrfece support to make r ot accuracy, i is easy just few toyoui miter want a fence that right up to NOTE; au pieces cur FROM V -THICK STOCK UPPER CLEAT (ft* H 14) LOWER CLEAT [Hi k 7) I'VFh WOOOECEEW ime ait youll need to s s^rustabie. set up, the tmtfeed roller stays securely in place, and y ou won't need to worry about it [ailing over or shifting out of portion. Tenoning jig X 1 I M WQQDf>CEf r W NOTE; SIZE SPACERS SO JE£? f m&HUGLY PVRPtWF FENCE NOTE: FACE ANP &FACE ft ARE z&" FPfWOOP SPACER VERTICAL STOP (ft a 1 - 12) DAM FOE VERTICAL STOP lb build the jig. begin with two face pieces. Cut a dado in one face for the vertical stop that holds the workpiece securely in place. Then cut dadoes and add the spacers to allow the fig to fit over your rip fence. You can use the jig to quickly and easily cut the cheeks of a tenon. But that's not all it will do, Youll find it also works great for c reating smooth cheeks for a half-lap joint or cutting a bndle joint ^ 45 f &CHJAEE MFTEft E5.ALHSE TO / SUF FENCE RIF FENCE $ PERFECTLY f/ • PARALLEL TO // / SLA0E F0E iff CLEAN -Jf , SHOULDER///, > CUTS iff V AUX1 U ARY FENCE ON MITIR GAUGE ALLDW& &TEAEY CONTROL AND PACK& UP cur WIPE -STACK DA DQ 0U©E FACE OF RIF FENCE SHOUT P 0€ SQUARE TO SAW TA&L F Here's a straightforward technique that yields top-notch results. k The Result- For tenons wrfh smooth cheeks, crisp shoulders, ana a riap-tree fit a dado blade on the table saw is the ticket First von want to use the wid- est dado blade possible. It will take fewer passes to cut the cheek? and you'll get smoother results. And 1 always install a zero-clearance insert over the blade to help control chipou t at the sfumlders. The auxiliary fence on the miter gauge gives you better control of the workpiece and also backs up the cuts. So you want to make sure it's tall enough to give you a good grip and it r & positioned to extend past the blade, as shown at left. Give of y out goals is clean, square shoulders. To achieve this, first, the results in a comparable time. Best of all, the setup is easy and the tech- nique can be mastered quickly How it Works, Going over the basic technique is a good lead-in ta setting up the table saw. Essentially, a wide, stack dado blade docs the hard work of removing the waste from the tenon cheeks and shoul- ders. Carefully adjusting the height of the blade is what gives you a snug fit to the mortise. The workpiece is fed aero ss the dado blade using an auxiliary fence attached to the miter gauge. This gives you firm, easy control and results in clean, square shoul- ders. Finally, the rip fence is used as an end stop to accurately gauge the length of the tenons. Setting Up Right, Setting up the table saw to cut the tenons only lakes d few minutes, A look dt the photo above and the drawing at left will help you with the basics 111 just highlight a few of the more important pc lints. Of ail the specialised table saw technique? 1 use, the one I probably turn to most often is cutting clean, accurate tenons with a dado blade. I've found that no other method gives me the same high-quality 46 . . * . _ ShopNotes No. 92 . * A57? m ™rr CUT AT S^rOUUOER UME f i a,| K [> is rj h L MOVIE hVORItnECE FOKWAJCD fcEfEEN PASSES J ds should be perfectly ^ *e blade. And second, 2 rie miter gauge is square vnce and the blade. UMING THE CUTS - HP Set up, cutting the quickly; The process is _ the drawings above, the Cheeks, The tenon s re cut hrst (Figure 2). I ’ using a best piece to adjust height and establish the -vs of the tenons. (This can be ■i one of your workpieces.) want to have a mortised * ■ ■ r cce close at hand to check fac -■ Vdut "stub" tenon should be - : - tt% snug fit at this point. You'll also need to adjust the position of the np fence to gauge the length of the tenon. Bub this can be done when cutting the first tenon cheek. Set the fence to cut just shy of the shoulder line and make a pass. Then tweak the fence position until the cut falls right on your line. Now, work hack toward the end of the tenon with multiple passes to remove the remaining waste on the cheek (Figure 2a), Side To Side. The dado blade often leaves small ridges on the tenon cheek. A quick way to remove these is to slide the workpiece side- tevside across the ''high point" of the blade (Figures 3 and 3a). Move the workpiece forward slightly Getting a Grip * Finger Tip Control* if you have trouble maintaining a good gnp : - kte workpiece, a set of Mibb# rubber finger hps is the answer, can buy them in sever, at sizes at an office supply store. between each pass to knock down the ridges. The opposite cheek can he cut exactly the same. Completing the Tenon, Once all the tenon cheeks have been cut and smoothed, you complete the ten- ons by rutting the top and bottom shoulders. A look at Figure 4 above will give you die idea. First, you may have to lead just the blade height to pmpt*rlv size the width of the tenon. You do this the same as for the cheeks, testing the fit directly to the mortise. But don't move the rip fence. Here the order is a little different. To remove the waste. I start with a cut at the ettd of the tenon and work back toward the shoulder. This has two benefits. You'll be much less likely to chip the comers of the tenon by cutting away waste that's still supported on the "shoulder" side. Second, you can ensure that all four shoulders will he perfectly aligned by making the shoulder cuts w r ith a final light pass. Then if necessary, smooth the face with a "sideways" pass or two. After cutting the top and bottom shoulders, the tenon Ls ready to meet its. mortise* Tt r s a gtvd feeling when the tenon slides home snugly. And you can be sure it's a joint that will last a lifetime. a ShopNotc-s.com 47 Tame the dust in your shop and I make more accurate cuts with m these handy accessories. ! don't think a day goes by in my shop that the miter saw doesn't get used, it's great for cutting pieces to length, making angled cute. or trimming an extra "hair" off a workpiece to get a good fit. In short its a shop workhorce. But the saw by itself is more suited to a construction site than a workshop. Thankfully, the accesso- ries pictured above can make your miter saw more accurate, safer, and more enjoyable to use. ROUSSEAU 00WHD RAFTER When it comes to controlling the dust clouds produced at the miter saw, IVe tried just about every- thing. Starting w r ith connecting a vacuum hose to the saw's dust port and moving on to building a bo* to try and corral the dust. The dust seemed in win every time. So when I saw the Dcnmidrstfter, I had to give it a try. The Dcmuirafier is a dust collec- tion hood made of impact-resistant molded plastic with a 4" dust col- lection port Using (he hood, your dust collector can handle even the worst dust clouds (like cutting MDF) without missing much. Working the Angles. The prob- lem with trying to collect dust at the miter saw is the fact that the dust exhaust changes position as you move the blade to make angled cuts. Thai means a fixed collection point won't do the job — especially when you angle the blade to cut at 45*. So a smart system would allow you to move the collection point with the blade. And that's exactly what the Dmcmirafttr does. Two Options. The Downdmfter hood is available in two models. 4 Roll It to the Source , Sturdy construction and portability add to the Downdrafter's strengths. 48 ShopNotcs No, 92 photo at This means *3 swivel the de L^t the saw rjBH Jt has the :y sm.g mobile, r away from the it near your l you'ne power i the lathe, attaches to the fe allowing the i the saw as you Thss ration is great ^ ? -Tavs in a fixed shop and you sel- : ^veitoa job site. 3 kxmd it to he very tT" f'ther a standard ar i sfiding-compound Tt 'tee l stand makes s easy w hile still i ^ :d platform , Yon'll - an* to add a 45* PVC poor saw's dust port, as rr main photo, to keep into the hood. (The recommends this in the instruction 1 m the package.) - ^reet price of $150, it's t- expensive solution tor But compared to cov- shop in a layer of dust ; it as welt, it just might re most effective. THE KREG PRECISION MEASUREMENT SYSTEM A popular use for the miter saw is making accurate and repetitive length cut?,. Kreg has made tile job a lot easier and more accurate with their Precision Measurement System, The kit consists of extruded alu- minum T-track designed to fit over a ii" -thick, shop-built fence. Hie track comes in four 2' lengths, so you can customize .-j >etup for your needs. The .kit also includes both left and right- reading measuring tapes that fit into the T-track. Stop Blocks. But the high! sights of the system an: the two stop blocks, both slide and kick into position easily on the T- track and feature acrylic etched cursors for setting up precise cuts using the fence. The first block is square and fixes in position Like a traditional stop block. The second is a * flip-stop." Once positioned, it can be flipped back over the fence and out of the way of tlie worksurfaee. Its curved shape also allows you to slide a board under it fas shown in the top photo at right). The real advantage here comes when you're cutting diftcrent-sized pieces from a board. (For example, if you need to cut multiple 60" and 30“ pieces from a set of 8' boards.) You just slide the :curate Cuts in rown Molding - . Tools takes the hassle ■" cutting crown molding “e r Cfir&te Ctef jig. The nice c about the CnPWH-'Guf is its *==r r All you need to do is ip fence to hold the moEd- rz - reside down and at the cr —vet angle — no need r 3it !he blade. The di- £ — for inside/ ou t- - : omers and 3 eft /right are printed right on it : you avoid errors. You just r-_-'.::on the molding in the jig M then cut the miter. ShopNotes.com Instructions for different cuts printed on jig w Adjustable fence end beck supports hold maiding in position k A Pair of Stops , Both the flip -stop (Jett) ana the hxed stop {right} feature an easy-to-read hairline cursor (inset above) for making accurate cuts. board against the flip stop, make the cut r then slide it underneath the stop to the fixed block and make the ran* I cut (photo above). The p rice of tire Precision Measure- ment System is also around Slnfl. But the accuracy and time savi ng s can quickly justify' the cost. Bottom Line, The Doomdrtififr and Precision Measurement System are welcome additions to the shop. And if you cut a lot of crown mold- ing, the box below shows another handy upgrade, You can find out where to buy these accessories in Sources on page 5T A White shopping for saw blades f V 've noticed that they all seem to have varying hook angles. Is one hook angle better than another? Ditw Busceiti Bloomfield, New Jersey The " Kotik* of a blade is simply the angle at which the teeth lean for- ward for back) when looking at the blade lrnm the side. B lades are available in a range of hook angles. If the teeth Jean forward (so that they face into the cut) the blade is said to have a positive hook angle, If the teeth ► Teeth with low or negative hook angle strike wood squarely. ► Teeth with positive nook angle " bite H into wood. lean backward, the blade has a negative hook angle, Most saw Wades tor Woodworking have a hook angle ranging from -5 to 20°. Determining which hook angle is best really depends upon the type of saw you're using and the work youTe doing. Miter Saw. If you're buying a blade for either a sliding com- pound miter saw or a radial arm saw, you J II want to choose a blade with a low or negative hook angle (between 5 D and -5°), The reason has to do with control. The higher the hook angle, the more aggressive the cut. This is because the teeth are biting into the wmd at a steeper angle (dra wings at left). On a miter or radial ami saw, a high hook angle can cause the blade to "grab" the workpiece and lurch forward uncontrollably, That's why a blade with a low or negative hook angle is a better choice with this type of saw. There are a couple of downsides to using a blade with a low dr nega- tive hook angle. The lower the hook angle, the more power the blade requires to cut through the mate- rial. So if your saw is underpow- ered to begin with, switching to a negative hook blade might make i+ seem even more anemic. The other thing to keep in mind is that youTJ probably have to slow- down your feed rate when using a blade with a low or negative hook angle. If \ on don't, you run the risk of stalling the motor Table Saw. If you're buying oB, blade fort nr table saw. you'll want to select one with a. high hook angle (anywhere from 10* to 2(F), The higher hook angle will allow you ?i * foed the wood Into the blade fastee And since the blade on a table saw remains in a fixed posi- tion.. there m\ f t realty any danger of the blade selt-feeding into the workpiece- Vuu simply control the cutting speed by adjusting the feed rate of the workpiece. Material. In addition to the type of saw you're using, you'll also want in consider the material you're cutting. Generally speaking, the harder (he material, the lower the hook angle you want to use. Tor cutting softwoods on a table sa w, a blade with a 20" hook is a good choice. With hardwoods, youTl want to use a blade with a 10° or 15' hook. And if you're cutting pi as he laminates or nnn- ferrous metals, youf best bet is a ^ blade with a negative hon-k angle, w' whether you're using a table saw or a miter sa w. & 50 ShopNotes No, 92 Sources * HANG IT DM A WALL Vaunting a cabinet to a wall is a ..-Lilknge if yon don't have a wall id in the right place. The solution i a wall anchor, like the ones fea- . red on page 1 0. If you have trouble i *.jting them at a local hardware ■vmre or home center, check with f. \ y$ter-Carr (margin at right). PlfWODB EDGING BITS Covering up the edges of plywood can be a hassle. But with the Bur- Edge bits shown on page 12, it's quick and easy to cut mating profiles that match perfectly These -els are available for both ' : "-thick and V-thirk material. The adjust- able bultnose profile bit is available for only the V material, AH the bits are available from the Burgess Edge. And Lee 1/nfJey carries the bits for >i" material (16J94.01, 16J 94,03). Rodder ha$ the bits for both 'A" (26018) and V (25854) fP .^tock. Check out the margin at right for ordering information. ONE- WALL WORKSHOP fhe cabinets for the one- wait work- shop on page 16 were obtained from Garage Storage Cabimts Con- tact information is in the margin. To ■customize the project, you r ll also need additional item?.. The feoe vise (68888) was ordered from Rockier , And Wavtuxwker's Hardware car- rit's the wire pulls (A7631326D) we swapped out art the cabinet doors. If you plan to add lighting, we used 48™ C£ Premium Direct Wire Fluorescent and 13' GE Advanced Linkable Halogen Light* from a local home center For tho tail vise, you'll need p 9" press screw (13F 17.01) and V^?r^ tas Bench Pups (05QM.O4) from Lee Valley, And if you decide to build die workbench without the tail vise, the Writ as Wonder Pup (Q5G 10.02), along with one bench pup (O5CiQ4.03), will make any clamping task simple. Finally to paint the cabinets, we used Lady Bug Red (1322) in Egg- shell Aqua Velvet and Antique Parch- ment (959) in Satin Impend. Both am available from a Benjamin Moon- dealer. To prepare the surface of the cabinets, we used a fast-drying, oil- based primer with, a gray tint. CLEANUP CENTER All the hardware for the cleanup center on page 30 is pretty com- mon. The only challenge may be finding the 30# kraft paper roll used to protect your benchtops and wurksiirfaces. Centratpaekcom offers the 30"- wide roll .is item number 18961, But similar rolls are available from a number of sources, including Office Depot and McMaster-Cau listed in the margin at right. TABLE SAW BLADE COVER The shop-made blade cover shown on page 36 is a great wav to improve the dust collection from your tabic saw. A hard warn store will carry most of what you need. For the knobs (23812), contact Rockier. And i f you need the crevice tool {Ridgid VT2502), check with I fome Defwi. MITER SAW UPGRADES Whether you're culling stock to rough length or trimming off a hair tor a perfect fit, a miter saw can't lie beat. For even more versatility and accuracy you can add upgrades like ihe ones on page 48, The Doumdrufter is available from a couple of the sources listed at right. The Amazon item number k B0006FRAVQ, And if you order through Eagle America, ask for item number 485-387D. I he Kreg Precision Measurement System is available from a num- ber nt mail-order sources, includ- ing Rodder (29415), Woodcraft (140487), and the Woodsmith Store. And finally the Cnnim-Cut Jig from Bench Dog T;on is available from both Amazon (BU006FKGGC } and the Woodsmith Store fii ShopNotes Binders Keep your issues organized! As you duiiq your library, nere s □ wav to keep your issues organized. Each binder features durable vinyl covers vi nd easy-to-read perforated number tags. Snap rings w ith a quick-open lever make ii easy to insert and remove issues. And there's an extra pocket inside tor storing notes. Each binder holds a full year (6 issues) of SArrphWejc VishwwWiShoiiNpfes.corn to order these binders, or call 1-SOO-444-7527 ShopNotes Binder } 701950-SN92 ST 2.95 WWW. Shop Noies.com MAH ORDER SOURCES Wortdittriitll Star© SW-444-7S27 Bi’npjxtrn i'rrt'i^ Cut /iy. Knobs, Kmj Pfrc i nen i .11 e-e*} r rm System, 'Ihlcm tjMtjh? lljobs, 1 v : riVi v Ri-r.'rJ'i Pwpv l( Pup Rockier HfK >-279-444 1 Fw$ W»,. Kttfifk l, Kfjff Ptorimgm Mffl&i/ rt irti'tii % FlyimMuf ft.ttfmit Bite* T\tUm Pttfbtjtfffi hmkt ■ Ijc*? Vallvy SWWt 8158 be eva]le> . nun Ptymnd Erf#? i.w Mite 5m?ic', Vmi?Li BfH-Wi f*vpt t JSr Fuft Tin Rurfiess 802-233-14*9 bu Ply wutfd Effypng Mite Mi'Mftal^r-Dirr 630^003600 mem rate neon Kraft Pa /fr'iVj, Sprung, WtitAMha n Amazon. 'CEhE Dtmmdmfler, I'mti'to 4'u f Jty Aaoka 1*00472-2511 f-nfj tfl m e nets . l‘4 :■ m Doumrirafler W^auft inf. 800-225-1153 woodcraft cum PrrevfTwt Memurfmmtf System H cKHtworker*'* Hardware H^tuii'dwun 1 .tom WrrrPutfi FAVt Crniadfaiator Supply Co* 86*^654-6354 mitnllNvkxm Pvprr Hnifo Office |h|HH 8tXi-4«3-376H offxfd^i>i.ii.<.-( ifn Kraft Paper Rulte Bradt !>i>a TcmJx 8^^786-8902 WWW. benchdrtq.Lrirn C'nwn^'ifl Jig Garage €ibtrw4& 060-414-4444 rtUnKrtu 51 TIBS www.ShopNotes.com Corral dust right at the source Thz cover uses an ordinary crevice toot to Chips as you're cutting, keeping then Need to trim hardwood edging flush with the surface of a plywood panel'? Here's a simple solution that provides great stability and tets you trim two panels at a time. Snugditting mortise and tenon joints are a hallmark of good craftsmanship and long-lasting projects . We'll show you a straightforward table saw technique hr cutting flawless tenons without a lot of hassle or complicated setups. PERFECl li E( > ; ; NS 1 m ShopNotes. Cutting Diagram shop-built Cleanup Center Materials CASE A Back (1) B Sides (2) C Peg Rail (1) D Pegs (5) E Shelves (2) F Left Face (1) G Right Face (1) H Side Dividers (2) I Middle Divider (1) 31 x 35 - 3 / 4 Ply. 12V4 x 35 - 3 / 4 Ply. 2 V 2 X 301/2 - 3 / 4 Ply. Vi x 4V4 ll 3 / 4 X 31 - 3 / 4 Ply. 4 3 / 4 x lOVi - 3 / 4 Ply. 4 3 / 4 x 8 3 / 4 - 3 / 4 Ply. 4 V 4 x 10 3 / 4 - 3 / 4 Ply. 4 3 / 4 x 12 - 3 / 4 Ply. J Paper Towel Bar (1) 1 x 12l/> K Cutter Arms (2) IV2 x 8Vi - IV2 Ply. L Roller Bar (1) 1 x 311/ 2 • (1) 111" x 111" - 30ki" Angle Iron • (27) #8 x 111" Fh Woodscrews • (2) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews • (2) #10 x 2" Fh Woodscrews • (1) Roll of 30"-wide Kraft Paper ALSO NEEDED: (1) V{ x 24" Dowel for Pegs (1) 1" x 48" Dowel for Paper Towel Bar and Roller Bar Page 1 of 1 ShopNotes 92 ©2007 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved. ShoiSWis. Cutting Diagram One- Wall Workshop Materials STORAGE CABINET WORK AREA A B C D E F G H K L M Top Bottom Left/Right End (2) Dividers (2) Back Bottom Fillers (2) Face Frame Rails (2) 16 x 71 - 3 / 4 MDF 1514 x 71 - 3 / 4 MDF 13 5 / 8 x16- 3 / 4 MDF 11 7 / 8 x 1514- 3 / 4 MDF 13V 8 x 71 - 3 / 4 MDF 3 / 4 x V/ 2 - 7014 3 / 4 x ll/ 2 - 69 Face Frame Outer Stiles (2) 3 / 4 x l!4 - 13 5 / 8 Face Frame Center Stiles (2) 3 / 4 x ll4 - 10 5 / 8 Tops (2) 1814 x 72 - 3 / 4 MDF Front Edging 3 / 4 xV/ 2 - 72 3 / 4 End Edging 3 / 4 x ll4 - 1914 Bottom Panel 12 x 72 - 3 4 MDF N O P Q R S T Panel Blocking (2) Panel Edging Top Panel Front Light Rail Pegboard Horizontal Spacer (2) Vertical Spacers (2) 1 x 114 - 72 l 3 / 4 x 72 - 3 / 4 MDF 18 x 72 - 3 / 4 MDF 214 x 72 - 3 / 4 MDF 18 x 72 - 14 Pgbd. 3 / 4 x 114- 72 3 / 4 x 114- 1514 STORAGE CABINET WORK AREA zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzA 3 U x 5V 2 - 96 A II c B ii c E •: D D tzzzzzz^zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzA 49 x 97 - % MDF 49 x 97 - % MDF 49 x 97 - % MDF 49 x 97 - V 4 Pgbd. Page 1 of 3 ShopNotes 92 ©2007 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved. ShopRfcte Cutting Diagram One-Wall Workshop Materials WORKBENCH AREA JJ Left/Right End (2) 3 / 4 x 2V4- 12l/ 4 U Top 16 x 59 - 3 / 4 MDF KK Vise Dog Run (3) 3 / 4 x 2 'A- 42 V Bottom 151/2 x 59 - 3 / 4 MDF LL Vise Guide Strips (2) 3 / 4 x y 4 - 10 w Left/Right End (2) 13 5 / 8 x 16 - 3 / 4 MDF MM Vise Traveler Block (3) 3 / 4 x 2 'A- 3 X Back 13V 8 x 59 - 3 / 4 MDF NN Vise Mounting Block (3) 3 / 4 x 2V4- 1V 2 Y Partitions (4) ll 7 / s x 15V 4 - 3 / 4 MDF OO Support Wedges (2) 3 / 4 xV 2 - 9 z Top Supports (2) ll 3 / 8 x 18!/ 4 - 3 / 4 MDF AA Face Frame Rail 3 / 4 x V / 2 - 57 BB Face Frames Stiles (2) 3 / 4 x V / 2 - 13 5 / 8 CC Tops (2) 18 V 2 x 60 - 3 / 4 MDF DD Front Edging 3 / 4 x 2 ] A- 60 EE Filler Strip 3 / 4 x 1V 2 - 60 FF Tops (2) 18 3 /2 x 24 - 3 / 4 MDF GG Front Edging 3 / 4 x V / 2 - 24 HH Top (3) 7 3 / 4 x 54V2 - 3 / 4 MDF II Rails (3) 3 / 4 x 2V4- 54/2 WORKBENCH AREA u w w i V Y Y P Y Y X 49 x 97 - 3 / 4 MDF 49 x 97 - 5 / 4 MDF Page 2 of 3 ShopNotes 92 ©2007 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved. Sboopote Cutting Diagram One-Wall Workshop ADDITIONAL STORAGE FFF Top/Bottom Spacer (2) 3 / 4 x iy 4 - 60 PP Top 22T2 X 24 - 3 / 4 MDF GGG End Spacers (2) y 4 x iy 4 - isy 2 QQ Sides (2) 2 V 2 x 24 - 3 / 4 MDF HHH Shelves (2) 3 / 4 x 5 3 / 4 - 22 RR Front Face 2Vj x 23 3 / 4 - 3 / 4 MDF III Back Panels (2) 3 / 4 x 6 - 22 SS Flange (2) 3V 4 x 24 - 3 / 4 MDF JJJ Ends (4) 3 / 4 x 6 - 6 TT Shelves (2) 7 x 59 - 3 / 4 MDF UU Front/Back Edging (4) 3 / 4 x lVi-60 VV End Edging (4) 3 / 4 x V/ 4 - 8 WW Bottom Panel 12 x 84 - 3 / 4 MDF XX Panel Blocking (2) 1 x V/ 2 - 84 YY Panel Edging l 3 / 4 x 84 - 3 / 4 MDF ZZ Top Panel 18 x 84 - 3 / 4 MDF AAA Front Light Rail 2V 4 x 84 - 3 / 4 MDF BBB Pegboard 18 x 24 - V 4 Pgbd. CCC Top/Bottom Spacer (2) V 4 x 114- 24 DDD End Spacers (2) 3 / 4 x 1V 4 - 151/2 EEE Pegboard 18 x 60 - V 4 Pgbd. Materials ADDITIONAL STORAGE 3 A x 5 V 2 - 96 DDD HHH HHH III III 3 M x 7 V 2 - 96 3 U x7!6- 96 49 x 97 - 3 / 4 MDF 49 x 97 - 3 / 4 MDF 48 x 96 - V 4 Pgbd. NOTE: IF BUILDING THE ENTIRE ONE-WALL WORKSHOP, SHEET GOOD PARTS CAN BE COMBINED TO MINIMIZE SHEET REQUIREMENTS Page 3 of 3 ShopNotes 92 ©2007 August Home Publishing. All rights reserved.